Difference between green and yellow dot bars?

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windthrown

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This is from another thread, and I am sure the answer (or debate about the answer) it is buried in the AS forum someplace, but...

What is the diffeence between a Stihl green dot bar and a Stihl yellow dot bar of the same size, build (solid or laminate) number of sprocket teeth and pitch and otherwise the same? For example, a Stihl 3003 000 9630 vs a Stihl 3003 000 8830 ??? In other words, what makes the yelolow dot bars have more of a potential for kickback?

Inquiring minds want to know... (O' Lake the Great one??? :) )
 
For those two mentioned it's the number of teeth in the tip sprocket. A wider tip (more teeth) makes the bar more prone to kick-backs and a narrower tip reduces the risk. 8830 is 11 teeth and green, and 9630 is 13 and yellow.

The concept only makes sense (or does it really..?) when comparing two otherwise similar bars. Otherwise my 10 tooth 18" inch bar aught to be labeled, I don't know, light green and peach colored clouds..?
 
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Yep, it's the width of the nose. A wider nose gives a larger section of the bar that will kick back. A "safety" bar will have a tapering nose. I think bars used for carving have really narrow noses - almost pointed.

Compare a really old bar on a Contra or 07 to a modern safety bar - the difference in profile is really obvious.
 
Yep, don't need the great "Lake", chainsaw god, to answer this one. Green is "safety" and yellow is "not as safe", or in other words, a pro bar. It all comes down to "pointy tips" as was mentioned. Harder to get kickback as the tip shrinks, and not as violent since the tip has less teeth to grab with if it does.

Just like the chains. Green is "safety" chain, and yellow is "pro" chain without all the safety crap on it...bumper free. When you are in the city, the green stuff is the stuff they try to cram down your throat for liability reasons. Then when you tell them it's for an 066, they shut up and hand the yellow stuff over.

Mark
 
Not so true Kiwi... There are green and yellow bars in the same construction (but yes, MOST yellow are ES, and MOST green are laminated).

Some bars you have to overlay each of them to see the difference - as little as 1/8 inch difference in in profile on the TOP of the tip.

Also.. the green have been tested for that wacky 45 degree kick deflection stuff...
 
Lake I've seen two Stihl bars, one on top of the other, and they look "nearly identical". They were either 36" or 32" narrow tip bars and one was yellow and the other green labled. Could you expand on your comments for me? All this time I thought one was marked wrong. I think I have a green narrow nose bar, I'll have to check.
 
Not so true Kiwi... There are green and yellow bars in the same construction (but yes, MOST yellow are ES, and MOST green are laminated).

Some bars you have to overlay each of them to see the difference - as little as 1/8 inch difference in in profile on the TOP of the tip.

Also.. the green have been tested for that wacky 45 degree kick deflection stuff...

Its true im afraid... ever wondered why a pro bar has the larger tip? comes down to physics. With a chain spinning around at 20m/s, there is a huge amount of force required as the chain goes through the radius of the tip. The larger the tip, the less energy is needed to get around. on a smaller radius tip, 1/8 difference is a huge amount when looking at the energy required to keep the chain going.

How does this affect bar life? as a chain rounds the smaller radius tip, the laws of phyics state that the chain wants to travel in its original directon. after it gets pulled around, the chain slaps on the bottom of the bar, more so then on a larger radius (larger raidus = smoother chain exit). So, in a test situation with chain at the same tension on the same saw but different tip radius sizes, the larger radius will always last longer due to less chain slap.
 
na... there are two types of pro tips - big fat tips most suited for boring and and slimmer "ordinary" tips....

Both are available over (up) here....

The 1/8th I was referring to is in the shape of the metal, not the size of the tip...
 
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I am Stihl confused. 2Dog's comments are what I was referring to. I seem to have erred in posting 2 bars with different sprocket counts. I thought they were the same. I have seen green and yellow bars of the same length and the same sprocket count. There has to be some other difference? If so, where is that 1/8 of an inch you are referring to?

:monkey: :monkey: :monkey:
 
I am Stihl confused. 2Dog's comments are what I was referring to. I seem to have erred in posting 2 bars with different sprocket counts. I thought they were the same. I have seen green and yellow bars of the same length and the same sprocket count. There has to be some other difference? If so, where is that 1/8 of an inch you are referring to?
:monkey: :monkey: :monkey:


Right on top of the tip between the mount to the and a 45 back sloping tangent to the outer circumference .. Dang it, I'm going to have to take a picture... grrrr...
 
Well, it will be worth it, Lord Lake. I have gotten quite a bit of positive feedback from other AS people that have the same question but were afraid of looking stupid by asking... or some such.

If only I had the same number of choices of bars to go drink at around here as the choice of bars to use on my Stihl cahinsaws!?!?! I would be a happy alkie for sure. Of course, the difference between yellow bars and green bars would be what, hard liquer vs. only beer?
 
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