Dolmar 5105 Saw and lot

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JohnMaddux541

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I have a Dolmar 5105 that I bought with a bad top end. I soon realized that I couldn’t find parts as easily as when I worked on Husqvarna and Stihl chainsaws but I found a piston, jug, intake boot, carburetor, muffler etc also on eBay. I rebuilt the top end and it runs well until in the cut and it’s bogging down. I’m not 100 percent sure what was the cause of the blow up but there was very little scoring on the jug and it can be salvaged. I’m gonna put the original carb back on and see if anything changes. Point of the post is I have quite a bit of time and money in and was curious if anyone had any insight on what I could get back out of the saw and extra parts. Thanks for reading and thanks for your helpEF109AC8-4433-4930-9861-32C5C7D21EA5.jpeg605448EE-F815-4CFE-B654-A081949B274B.jpeg 69BDDDCD-5608-4297-8E48-AA8142A1826C.jpeg 9C77D2E9-B6DC-464F-BF97-9F438B3D44CC.jpeg 719F9DD0-E79B-4DF7-99A2-909C3F9EFE97.jpeg9854A2DB-8294-4E9D-A7B7-753E3C4C477A.jpeg 821F0193-D941-456F-9136-B58A089EA724.jpeg 4F5FB6E0-049A-4823-A715-215BBEEDE885.jpeg F719B2EA-A93C-47FA-BFD0-F59E21E0E2B6.jpeg 3030E862-860A-48C6-88DC-0B75DB10FE9E.jpeg
 
PM sent on the box of leftovers. As long as the saw makes good comp you should get between $300 and $350 for it. I've rebuilt a few of these, they're a labour of love for sure. Not a lot, if any, profit on them. I keep buying more though...
 
I have a Dolmar 5105 that I bought with a bad top end. I soon realized that I couldn’t find parts as easily as when I worked on Husqvarna and Stihl chainsaws but I found a piston, jug, intake boot, carburetor, muffler etc also on eBay. I rebuilt the top end and it runs well until in the cut and it’s bogging down. I’m not 100 percent sure what was the cause of the blow up but there was very little scoring on the jug and it can be salvaged. I’m gonna put the original carb back on and see if anything changes. Point of the post is I have quite a bit of time and money in and was curious if anyone had any insight on what I could get back out of the saw and extra parts. Thanks for reading and thanks for your helpView attachment 715356View attachment 715357 View attachment 715358 View attachment 715359 View attachment 715360View attachment 715362 View attachment 715361 View attachment 715364 View attachment 715365 View attachment 715366
Does the "etc." on your parts list include a set of crankcase seals? Was the carb used and if so did you install a new kit?
If no to either I would recommend replacing those service parts and then checking case vacuum/pressure to make sure the are no leaks at unexpected locations.
I'm not a fan of that slip fit design on the intake boot. It's looking like a regular metal band from an 044 boot or something from a smaller stihl would be a feasible upgrade.
 
Does the "etc." on your parts list include a set of crankcase seals? Was the carb used and if so did you install a new kit?
If no to either I would recommend replacing those service parts and then checking case vacuum/pressure to make sure the are no leaks at unexpected locations.
I'm not a fan of that slip fit design on the intake boot. It's looking like a regular metal band from an 044 boot or something from a smaller stihl would be a feasible upgrade.
I usually unscrew the spring clamp, snip off a mm or two, and screw it back into itself. It tightens up the seal quite a bit. I've only ever seen one that leaked when I got it, and i don't think it was the spring's fault. Someone had smeared some sort of sealant around the intake flange that hardened up.
 
PM sent on the box of leftovers. As long as the saw makes good comp you should get between $300 and $350 for it. I've rebuilt a few of these, they're a labour of love for sure. Not a lot, if any, profit on them. I keep buying more though...
Same here, maybe it's an ez start thing? Really like the Makita i have with heated handles!
 
Does the "etc." on your parts list include a set of crankcase seals? Was the carb used and if so did you install a new kit?
If no to either I would recommend replacing those service parts and then checking case vacuum/pressure to make sure the are no leaks at unexpected locations.
I'm not a fan of that slip fit design on the intake boot. It's looking like a regular metal band from an 044 boot or something from a smaller stihl would be a feasible upgrade.
I’m looking into the issue now. Gonna have to do some extra work on making sure the saw is right before I let it go
 

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