Dolmar Chainsaw refuses to start

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eugene89us

ArboristSite Member
Joined
May 16, 2024
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Location
Madison, MS
Good morning. I am a bit at loss currently. As I posted previously, I started using NOS Dolmar 5105 S chainsaw within the last month. So far, it went through about 2 tanks of fuel. She was ripping through wood like there is no tomorrow. In fact, I posted a video here of her starting, idling, and cutting.

I was bucking one of the younger oak trees that was recently dead. The saw was going strong, very hot MS afternoon. As I was bucking its last cut, the saw turned off in the cut. I opened the gas cap - the tank was not completely empty, but it was almost there. Figured the fuel filter was not fully submerged anymore, must have been low tank. I also recently got fresh 93 octane ethanol free gas that I use with all my saws. Mixed 50:1 with Red Armor as I usually do. The saw refused to restart.

I got my Stihl chainsaw - my primary saw. Finished bucking with it. Once it ran out of fuel, I refueled it as well and it ran kinda slow on that gas. It would die at idle, though would restart at fast idle. Of course, here I have confidence to say that I must have gotten old gas from the station. It is $4.6/gal (vs. ethanol 93 octane runs around $1/gal cheaper). I dumped gas from both. To be on the safe side, I went ahead and splurged on Moto Mix. Stihl chainsaw perked up immediately, would idle beautifully again without issue. But even with bad gas, it would still start at fast idle, but it would not idle well on its own.

Trying to rejuvenate Dolmar has not been as straightforward. I dumped all the fuel, replaced with Moto Mix. No start. I took the carburetor out, cleaned it out. Later on, I even put my spare new carb on it - so I know carburetor is NOT the issue. Checked the fuel line and filter - perfectly new, no restrictions. The tank holds some pressure when closed, no vacuum is formed there. Compression at spark plug is right at 180 psi. Took the boot off and inspected the intake boot as well as impulse line - both perfectly healthy. Both hold pressure and vacuum when tested with my mouth on one side and finger on the other. Checked the coil. The plug sparks nice blue spark when out of the cylinder. Well, I have a spare new backup coil. It also sparks when grounded, no avail - saw does not restart with spare coil. So that eliminates coil issue. Used a business card to gap the coil. Found a perfect one that shows 0.0100 inch on my caliper. If I push the caliper tighter, I can get 0.0098. I think that is as perfect gap as you can make it. Oh yeah, replaced spark plug with new NGK BPMR7A, gapped at 0.02. Inspected piston when the saw was disassembled. Brand new looking. Does not even have any carbon on it, all factory markings there without a scratch on both intake and exhaust sides. I took a photo of brand new out of the box flywheel. Currently, when piston reaches TDC, the magnet position is spot on where it was when it was brand new, so getting flywheel out of time is also not the case.

At this point, I am completely at loss. The saw that was cutting through wood like it is nothing is now a paperweight. I know it has compression, I know it has spark, I know the carb is good. I even took the muffler off to test it to eliminate muffler or spark screen issues. After so many deperate pulls, the muffler opening gets wet, so I know the saw is getting fuel. Once in a while, it will sputter a bit. Yesterday, in fact, it almost started. Ran for about 2 seconds and died again. My only last option is to check the seals. I will need to order vacuum and pressure tester to do so and then test in case there is a leak at the seals or gaskets. But that makes it unlikely after only 2 tanks of gas.

Searched forums. A couple folks were in same predicament. Some had coil issues that did not spark at all - mine sparks well, and tested 2 coils anyways. One ended up trading it back to dealer after not finding solution with same symptoms as mine. It is a simple engine, I am just not sure where else to look. Any ideas would be appreciated greatly.
 
What would be the symptoms of seized piston? The saw cranks as it always did with pull cord.

This is intake side:

1000027586.jpg

I didn't snap photo of exhaust, since it looked brand new like my brand new photos.
 
The piston moves as expected when pulling with pull cord and observing from the exhaust side. There is no discoloration of the piston sides. After 2 tanks, there is some combustion residue on top of piston when I look through spark plug hole, but I can still read the writing on the piston itself.
 
What would be the symptoms of seized piston? The saw cranks as it always did with pull cord.

This is intake side:

View attachment 1189439

I didn't snap photo of exhaust, since it looked brand new like my brand new photos.
Well if it looks like this side in the pic you are good there at least. I suppose a vac and pressure test would be in order now. Check the cylinder base screws to see if they are loose while you are at it. How do you know the carb is good? Is the saw all OEM parts? Did anyone work on it before you bought it?
 
I am thinking of following advice of British guy on YT as he made his own spark plug based opening by removing the ceramic insert and epoxying a barb connector to spark plug body. Then will use a piece of rubber to sandwich between exhaust and muffler, as well as between carburetor and intake. I think that will provide vacuum and pressure test in the saw itself but also around the boot and impulse line. All should be sealed pretty well. That is really the only plausible option left. I am giving it one more hope that after cranking it for a while with bad fuel, I may have flooded it bad. After a day of sitting, it did not restart. I am thinking of giving it about a week with muffler off and piston at bottom dead center to expose below-piston intake area ports so the whole thing can dry completely out. Will also drain all fuel and leave fuel cap open. That will eliminate all possibilities of flooded saw. If that fails, then on to the next step. Worst case, it has original high speed 14,500 rpm gray coil. At least I can return some of the saw money by selling it.... Hopeful I can get it back to work, was an amazing saw.
 
I am thinking of following advice of British guy on YT as he made his own spark plug based opening by removing the ceramic insert and epoxying a barb connector to spark plug body. Then will use a piece of rubber to sandwich between exhaust and muffler, as well as between carburetor and intake. I think that will provide vacuum and pressure test in the saw itself but also around the boot and impulse line. All should be sealed pretty well. That is really the only plausible option left. I am giving it one more hope that after cranking it for a while with bad fuel, I may have flooded it bad. After a day of sitting, it did not restart. I am thinking of giving it about a week with muffler off and piston at bottom dead center to expose below-piston intake area ports so the whole thing can dry completely out. Will also drain all fuel and leave fuel cap open. That will eliminate all possibilities of flooded saw. If that fails, then on to the next step. Worst case, it has original high speed 14,500 rpm gray coil. At least I can return some of the saw money by selling it.... Hopeful I can get it back to work, was an amazing saw.
It don't need a week to dry out, put it together take the plug and air filter off, pull it a bunch of times with the kill switch off then try to get it running again. You can pressure test the saw at the impulse nipple to the right of the intake port, you don't need that plug contraption. You can just look at the intake boot for cracks. That saw looks new like.
 
The saw is basically new, aside from maybe making a total of 20 to 30 cuts of the oaks. I am 99.9% sure it went through either 2 or 3 tanks of gas total. It has not even broken in yet....
 
It is a good idea to use impulse line instead of getting as spark plug contraption. How would you seal the intake boot? I was thinking using rubber sandwich between the carburetor and the rubber boot, and then tightening the carburetor. I know Stihl made a special plug that went in place of a carburetor, but I do not want to spend more money diagnosing that I spent on the saw itself. I have spare seals, so it won't cost me anything more other than my time fixing it.
 
Try again,Im thinking vapor lock was it real hot when this happened?
It was usual Mississippi summer weather - 94 degrees F (feels like 114 F). The day it died the weather was actually overcast, I did not require rest after each buck. I probably bucked about 10 to 15 cuts on about 15-inch oak. It stalled like it ran out of gas. But I tried it many times since, I would imagine any vapor lock would be cleared
 
It is a good idea to use impulse line instead of getting as spark plug contraption. How would you seal the intake boot? I was thinking using rubber sandwich between the carburetor and the rubber boot, and then tightening the carburetor. I know Stihl made a special plug that went in place of a carburetor, but I do not want to spend more money diagnosing that I spent on the saw itself. I have spare seals, so it won't cost me anything more other than my time fixing it.
Well, I personally use another intake boot with a rubber plug and silicone to create a perfect seal. Try the way you said. Maybe a rubber plug ,grease and a hose clamp. Was it real hot out when all this happened?
 
It was usual Mississippi summer weather - 94 degrees F (feels like 114 F). The day it died the weather was actually overcast, I did not require rest after each buck. I probably bucked about 10 to 15 cuts on about 15-inch oak. It stalled like it ran out of gas. But I tried it many times since, I would imagine any vapor lock would be cleared
Did you try after it cooled down and waited a good while out of the sun ? Could be the whole problem.
 
I will rest it inside the house at 75F for a day and will check to see if that fixes the issue. I would be amazed if 94F would cause an issue, especially as hot as these saws get running at full throttle.
 
I have a Jonsered 2172. It was running wide open and just quit. Not running out of gas symptoms. I couldn't figure out what was wrong so I took it to the saw shop. Upon disassembly he found a 1/4" piece of the circlip that holds in the wrist pin had broken off and got between the piston and cylinder. It ended up scoring both so badly they had to be replaced. The saw was about a year out of warranty and looked almost new inside but repairs were not covered. Shop charged over $350 to fix it.
 
@cat10ken Do you know if that circlip somehow affected the compression? I have a borescope and I can inspect the entire cylinder, as I am sure something like that will become blatantly visible. But I checked compression when new - it was 180 psi and it remains around same ballpark. I would say 175-180 psi is what I got routinely. This is a saw I do not start with handle between my legs because the compression makes me fear I will be in a whole lot of hurt if it slips.
 
How much would you put down the cylinder? Around 5mL or so? I have a syringe, it is easier to get all that into cylinder as opposed to trying to drizzle with a spoon or anything else. With that amount added, how long would you expect it to sputter?
 
teaspoon or so , I'll do that with a fresh carb rebuilt or any time the fuel system has been run dry and the saw is having a hard time starting . I will sometimes 'bottle feed ' to keep it running until the carb works on it's own . does your saw have the easy start [ spring assist ] type starter ?
 
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