BlackSmith
ArboristSite Operative
How much clearance should there be between the inside of the rails on a .050 bar....?
Drive Link Clearance
- Thread starter BlackSmith
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Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
No more than .058, if it's more just use 73LG or 35RS.
John
John
Finally one I can answer.....50 thousandths of an inch. Mike
BlackSmith
ArboristSite Operative
rupedoggy dawg.... a .050 drive link won't fit in a .050 slot....
Gypo thanks dude...just got a 100' reel of 3/8 x .050 so a new bar is in order I guess...
Gypo thanks dude...just got a 100' reel of 3/8 x .050 so a new bar is in order I guess...
eyolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm gonna go out on a limb and assume you're trying to figure out when to discard a worn bar.
New chain drive tangs are usually about -0.001-+0.0002 from the tolerance, and bars run about 0.004 above. These figures are from measuring various bars, and not from looking at mfg specs.
Using a nice tight bar groove will help a bit when your chain is misfiled or rocked a little on one side...you can get to the other side of an 8" limb before the dang thing just won't cut anymore. But if you keep trying, that groove will get wider fast, and you'll also wreck the chain
On the other hand, evenly sharpened chain can be run in a loose bar slot and still cut pretty well. I've seen .050 chain in .058 bars doing just fine as long as the chain was maintained well.
I've had saws with crappy oilers and got in the habit of draw-filing the bar rails now and then to straighten them up. I used the bars until there were "flats" or there wasn't enough clearance for the drivers, and they still worked OK...even though there was plenty of slop...as long as I did my part and was careful about accurate chain filing.
New chain drive tangs are usually about -0.001-+0.0002 from the tolerance, and bars run about 0.004 above. These figures are from measuring various bars, and not from looking at mfg specs.
Using a nice tight bar groove will help a bit when your chain is misfiled or rocked a little on one side...you can get to the other side of an 8" limb before the dang thing just won't cut anymore. But if you keep trying, that groove will get wider fast, and you'll also wreck the chain
On the other hand, evenly sharpened chain can be run in a loose bar slot and still cut pretty well. I've seen .050 chain in .058 bars doing just fine as long as the chain was maintained well.
I've had saws with crappy oilers and got in the habit of draw-filing the bar rails now and then to straighten them up. I used the bars until there were "flats" or there wasn't enough clearance for the drivers, and they still worked OK...even though there was plenty of slop...as long as I did my part and was careful about accurate chain filing.
Shucks. I got that wrong too? Well it would sure disappoint some on here if I did get something right. Glad to see I am still making some happy. Mike
Marky Mark
Hell's Kitchen Trapper
Mike at least your Consistant. Slow and steady wins the race.Happy New year Pal
BlackSmith
ArboristSite Operative
eyolf...I'm trying to figure out what the problem is with a husky55...from day one the oiler holes in the bar will plug with chips...tried different chains/oil...even drilled the oiler holes out to 5/16...was thinking maybe the bar is wrong for the .050 chain but thats not the case either...thanks for your reply...
