Drought and construction stressed Fir

[FBerkel]

A customer's Douglas Fir is looking poorly--thin, some (maybe 5%) dead. The tree has had roots cut, soil compacted, grad added to, and drought to boot. The worst of the stresses were in previous years. At what point does one risk fertilizing with some component of nitrogen? I'm trying not to over stimulate growth for which the tree has little energy to support, yet it looks like it needs a little boost to get through.

If anyone wanders into this empty, forlorn forum, please advise.

 

[Frans]

Here in CA our Doug Firs are very sensistive to such conditions/damage.
What was the time from the construction damage to the time you were called out to inspect the tree?
5% dead and thinning canopy is not too great but with the past history of cut roots, compaction etc it could very well be that the tree is on it's way out... You need to determine if the damage is too great to make it worthwhile to try to 'save' it.
I have had great success with several products mixed together.
These are mixed in solution and injected into the growing zone along with mulching.
Azomite rock powder, Compost tea, Sea Kelp, Promote, benifical micro-organisms.
You as the Arborist need to determine if the tree is past the point of no return.
Soil compaction is a major issue. With that not addressed no amount of 'snake oil' will do any good. Cut roots soil compaction alone may doom the tree to decline and or whole tree failure no matter what you do.
Each species of tree is different and they react and grow differently according to their geographical location.
Seek LOCAL expert advice, your ag office, Master gardeners program, instructors from the local Jr. colleges, Your local Dept. of Forestry Registered Professional Forester.
These resources are valuable becouse there is species specific information that may help you to avoid going through alot of time and trouble diagnosing and treating problems.

Back up what ever you say to the client with written documentation so they know that YOU ARE THE ANSWER TO ALL THEIR TREE NEEDS. not just another guy shooting their mouth off.
Frans

 

[Sylvatica]

BTW, how common is needle cast on Doug Fir out in Cali?

In the rainy, humid east coast they get it quite heavily, and it spreads like fire if there is a 'typhoid Mary' tree in the neighborhood. I won't even recommend them for my area any more.

 

[FBerkel]

Some soil issues have been addressed, specifically mulching and irrigation. I think I'll also aerate as soon as MMayo gets his air spade (nothing personal, JPS Not much root area left to deal with, unfortunately.

No, I definitely don't fertilize as a first option. In fact, this would be my first tree ever fertilized, so it's probably about time I'll probably go with some of the seaweed sauce JPS got me, to keep N levels resonable.

 

[coffeecraver]

You might want to start looking for a replacement tree.

The tree is dying a slow death and the client shoud be told before
spending money on the air spade,fertilizer and other quick fixes.

 

[tshanefreeman]

If all of these environmental changes have taken place around and above the rootzone, you will want to:

1. Explain the reality of the situation to the homeowner.

- Nothing is worse than surprises on the part of the homeowner or tree care company. The better the communication between these two parties, the greater the relationship will be created. It will also show the client that you care!

2. Avoid fertilizers (especially salt based convential ones)

3. Deep-root aerate

- I find that turf aerators are NOT good enough. They will aid the rejuvination of the groundcover, but do little good for the tree. You need to get down anywhere from 6-10 inches. I personally use a 3/4" chuck Heavy Duty Spade Drill and a boring bit..................not your best bit either, for after the first hole is drilled, you bit will never touch wood again. It doesn't take long to aerate a large area. Just lock on the trigger and go to town! One thing to keep in mind....................make sure that there are no underground wires, gas lines, etc. You don't want to create a bigger problem.

4. Organically mulch

- There are countless discussion in this site's database on the proper do's and don'ts of mulching.

5. Water during periods of drought

6. Stand back and watch for positive results

- The pre-described is reletively cost effective and any homeowner should have no problem paying a little to try and save a mature tree. And if the damage is too extensive and the tree later dies, well at least they aren't out hundreds..................well, until the removal is done!

 

[NeTree]

Some Mycor could be helpful in letting what roots there get the most uptake they can.

 

[wiley_p]

Not being able to see the tree, how old is it anyway. In this area with the site conditions you described, and the canopoy looking thin, It would be likely that the tree was a goner we have a lot of laminated root rot present here and Doug firs with "development dmage"usually decline in a decade anyway. But some of the reccomendations the others have made are interesting, I wonder what the response would be with vert. mulching, biostimulant etc.

 

[B.Secord]

Fred-- Like the others I would be concerned about the liability issues that this tree poses to the client as well as yourself. Not your fault that it's in the shape its in, but they asked you for your opinion--- Be careful.

None of the others has mentioned it, but there is a book available for evaluating Hazard trees. "Evaluation of Hazard Trees in Urban Areas" Matheny & Clark, is available from the ISA.

Have it and us it a lot.

Sorry if there are any type-o's as I am one of the Frozen brained Canadians.

Good luck. Brent

 

[ROLLACOSTA]

Roots cut ,no way in the world is this going too recover,time too fell it as the longer its left the more dangerous it can become,then give the idiot construction compony owner an ISA publication on trees and construction sites

 

[lawnaggie]

re. Douglas fir

I know someone with a cannon(?) fir that has been replaced in the same location 3 times. It gradually dies from the bottom branches up - not the gradual thinning throughout. Would one presume root rot or just the poor clay soil it was planted in (or a combination)?

The yew problem almost looks like winter dessication damage.