MAWoodsman
ArboristSite Member
I picked up a 2511P for limb work. Ive read the stock chain (Oregon 91PXL045X) is pretty bad on this saw. Anyone here got one thats still running the stock 3/8 .050 gauge bar? There a better chain out there to use?
Echo 2511P Chain?
- Thread starter MAWoodsman
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I do not have one but the 91px with shorter cutters is somewhat smoother and narrower cut. The obsolete 91vx is essentially the same but no bumper drive links.
You should be able to adapt a Stihl 44 dl bar in 0.043 gauge and use Stihl chain which I think is the best in that class.
You should be able to adapt a Stihl 44 dl bar in 0.043 gauge and use Stihl chain which I think is the best in that class.
link
Gone fishing
Not sure about the 2511, but I use a 12" 0.043 Makita guide bar with the Stihl super narrow kerf 0.043 chain on my Echo 280T. The Makita guide bars fits right on to it with no modification, not too expensive either.
Cuts nice and smooth with it, not like the jig jig jig jig jiggle 0.050 chain...
I would not recommend the 0.043 chain at 14" unless you have a guide bar with a proper curved top and bottom cutting edge and not the simplified straight line cutting edges, because it will derail easily and it will mess up the chain completely when it does.
Cuts nice and smooth with it, not like the jig jig jig jig jiggle 0.050 chain...
I would not recommend the 0.043 chain at 14" unless you have a guide bar with a proper curved top and bottom cutting edge and not the simplified straight line cutting edges, because it will derail easily and it will mess up the chain completely when it does.
MAWoodsman
ArboristSite Member
Was that the E-00066 bar? I see they make a 10in bar as well.
Do you happen to have a link to the chain you run on yours?
link
Gone fishing
You have absolutely right, its a 10":
Chain is;
https://www.stihl.com/STIHL-power-t.../Picco-Micro-Mini-3-(PMM-3)-3-8-P-1-1-mm.aspxDon't get fooled by the entry level remark... it will boost your experience no matter what level.
I've been using the stock chain and bar. No complaints,.
MAWoodsman
ArboristSite Member
Are you in the US? I dont see that chain in a 10in length. Unless you are removing links?
Attachments
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2014
- Messages
- 3,399
- Reaction score
- 4,037
I went with a 12" Stihl bar and 45dl of .043 which seems to be perfect for this saw. I got the Stihl safety chain, but am going to try Baileys 3/8 low pro non-safety chain to see how that goes. I have a Makita 36v tophandle I'm am going to set up the same way.
MAWoodsman
ArboristSite Member
Makita make a 10in 3/8 .043 bar. But I don't think anyone makes a full chisel chain in 10in
What I found and it must have been 5 or more years ago is that 3/8lp in 0.043" from Baileys branded woodland pro is essentially Carlton n4c which has the same cutters as n1c but thinner drive links. Some if not all of the economy brands may be this way as well. If you want cutters matched like the Oregon 90 or Stihl 61 or the stuff that came on my Husqvarna battery top handle t536i you may be dissapointed. On the other hand some folks detest the little cutters and the other choices will please them not having to buy another bar in 0.050 for a while. The Makita 36 volt saws come with Oregon 90 chain, well the 18 volt one as well just shorter.
link
Gone fishing
Yea the Stihl chain dont habla with 10", its probably an Oregon chain. It is identical to the Stihl. Cant remember the name. VXL 91 or something similar. It could be a Makita chain too, they would make super narrow cerf for their battery saws.
But they are all the same, never noticed any difference in kerf width or endurance in these .043 chains.
EDIT; I'm using a Makita chain, It's identical to the Stihl.
link
Gone fishing
I have both a 12" and a 14" Oregon bar that fits with these saws and I have the Stihl chain for both of them.
But I remember I wanted a 10" on this saw, after all I never cuts anything more than 4-6" with it.
The Oregon bars have the simplified straight edge profile that make derailing an issue.
Never had an issue with the 12" but the 14" will derail way too easy, and it will destroy the chain.
The drive tooth gets hammered by the sprocket and they wont fit in the bar track afterwards.
You can fix them with a file, that will take all night...
But I remember I wanted a 10" on this saw, after all I never cuts anything more than 4-6" with it.
The Oregon bars have the simplified straight edge profile that make derailing an issue.
Never had an issue with the 12" but the 14" will derail way too easy, and it will destroy the chain.
The drive tooth gets hammered by the sprocket and they wont fit in the bar track afterwards.
You can fix them with a file, that will take all night...
MAWoodsman
ArboristSite Member
I ordered a 12in 3/8 .050 Full chisel chain to try instead of the stock.
I couldnt find 10in .043 Full Chisel chain. So i ordered a 12in 3/8 .043 bar and a full chisel chain.
Ill report back here with the results.
I couldnt find 10in .043 Full Chisel chain. So i ordered a 12in 3/8 .043 bar and a full chisel chain.
Ill report back here with the results.
link
Gone fishing
Well, the .043 narrow kerf chains will certainly cut smoother than the Stihl .050 super xx.
I use the Stihl .050 full chisel chain on my MS241cm (its the standard chain that comes with that saw) at 14", and also on my Echo 360 rear handle modded saw that I use with a 12" original Echo bar. It cuts really nice, you just might be happy with it, its definitely a more sturdy and robust chain. Wouldn't want it on my top handle though, too much nagging at my hand(s).
The original Echo bars is way superior to anything else. They are sturdy, heavy and have a proper curved cutting edge profile even at 10", too bad they don't make them at .043. Perhaps you can get it for wood carving without a nose sprocket.
With a rear handle saw like my modded 360T its no problem with the .050 full chisel, you have the long moment and control of the rear handle and its only for small wood so it cuts through it very quickly.
But with less/shorter moment (top handle) and less weight (2511) that will significantly increase that nagging feeling of a .050 chain. If you have never tried a .043 narrow kerf chain however, you have nothing to compare to so you might not miss a thing.
I use the Stihl .050 full chisel chain on my MS241cm (its the standard chain that comes with that saw) at 14", and also on my Echo 360 rear handle modded saw that I use with a 12" original Echo bar. It cuts really nice, you just might be happy with it, its definitely a more sturdy and robust chain. Wouldn't want it on my top handle though, too much nagging at my hand(s).
The original Echo bars is way superior to anything else. They are sturdy, heavy and have a proper curved cutting edge profile even at 10", too bad they don't make them at .043. Perhaps you can get it for wood carving without a nose sprocket.
With a rear handle saw like my modded 360T its no problem with the .050 full chisel, you have the long moment and control of the rear handle and its only for small wood so it cuts through it very quickly.
But with less/shorter moment (top handle) and less weight (2511) that will significantly increase that nagging feeling of a .050 chain. If you have never tried a .043 narrow kerf chain however, you have nothing to compare to so you might not miss a thing.
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
I'm running the narrow-kerf non-safety 3/8lp bar/chain from Bailey's on my 2511t...it's the Woodland Pro Arbormax lite. It cuts quite well and has allowed be to run a 16" bar on it.
https://www.baileysonline.com/woodlandpro-arbormax-lite-3-8-low-profile-chainsaw-bars-wpal.html
https://www.baileysonline.com/woodlandpro-arbormax-lite-3-8-low-profile-chainsaw-bars-wpal.html
link
Gone fishing
That is certainly a long guide bar on a small saw !
I like WoodlandPro too, I have 20" and 24" standard Timbermax bars for my 70cc saws. Not tried the new lightweight bars.
Here you have something to compare it to, this is my modded 360T with an added rear handle and at 14" .043.
This saw seems like its too rich the first couple of minutes, it coughs in the beginning but it leans out when it gets hot and kinda wakes up...
I post this video all the time in here so you might be tired of it already.
I like WoodlandPro too, I have 20" and 24" standard Timbermax bars for my 70cc saws. Not tried the new lightweight bars.
Here you have something to compare it to, this is my modded 360T with an added rear handle and at 14" .043.
This saw seems like its too rich the first couple of minutes, it coughs in the beginning but it leans out when it gets hot and kinda wakes up...
I post this video all the time in here so you might be tired of it already.
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
I'm mostly cutting/climbing softwoods with this saw...if I've got a big hardwood removal to do, I'll often just use my 201tcm. The longer bars are really useful for the larger conifers around here. The stock 12" bar was only good for limbing and taking out a small top.
MAWoodsman
ArboristSite Member
I picked up the Makita 12in 3/8 .043 bar and chain to try in mine. I read the "Lite" bars really arent worth it at shorter lengths, and that appears to hold true as the WoodlandPro Lite 12in bar is the same weight as the Makita i just got in.
I did run the saw stock the other day. There was a bit of chatter, which i wasnt a fan of. Ill try a .050 Full Chisel chain before testing the Makita .043 Bar and Full Chisel Chain.
Similar threads
