Edelrid "Adjust" enforced for chain saw accidents?

[Sagen 78:01]

Hi all. This is my first post here.

I bought some "never used-used gear" but I am not sure about the "work positioning lanyard" (do not know the correct word in english). It is an Edelrid "Adjust" (Art.nr. 8104 EN 358) but I doubt that it is enforced for chain saw accidents?

Anyone know if it is "safe" to use togethet with a chain saw? Of course you are not supposed to cut it...

Thinking about just using a chain instead... To be safe.


Thanks in advance!

 

[freeweight]

simple fact is even a wire core wont stand up to a saw,might buy u 2-3 seconds MAYBE ,as apposed to 1 second if that compared to just a rope ,the leather straps arent bad

just find somthing u are comfy with and be as careful as possible

 

[pdqdl]

Would that be one of these?

http://www.roadieworks.eu/Edelrid-Adjust_1


That looks like it would work, although I cannot read the load ratings. Many climbers do not use a cable core lanyard, including myself. Obviously, that comes with increased risk of cutting it with a chainsaw.

Chain would certainly work as a lanyard, but it will be much more difficult to use. Except for the difficulty to use, chain would make a safe lanyard since you will neither break it, nor cut it with a chainsaw. On the other hand, I do not know of any reliable adjusting mechanisms for a chain, so you would always be at risk when you attempted to adjust the length.

A steel cable lanyard is probably a much better idea to use.

Same brand, this is certainly well suited for tree work: http://www.arboristequipment.co.uk/....html?osCsid=5552cdde8a8042f1ed452f13fb028202

Edelrid main page:
http://www.edelrid.de/index.php?id_lang=0000002

 

[Sagen 78:01]

Thank you to both of you for nice answers!

pdqdl: Yes it is that lanyard and you are perfectly correct that it is probably alot harder to work with a chain as lanyard. But I will probably do that because the only guy I know doing this back home prefer the chain so it is easier doing it the same way

I think the risk is moderate changing the length of the chain if you run the chain through the D-ring on the side of the belt and then connect it back to itself with a carabiner. Then you will never be totally loose since the carabiner wont fit in the D-ring on the belt. What a messy explanation, hope it made some sense

 

[derwoodii]

Giday Sagen welcome to AS from down under. All above are wise may I add steel core flip lines or lanyards can make you feel secure, but down sides are
A tendancy to drop off or flip from limbs as you move about, you can get the heavy end steel snap lock flick in ya face or mouth. (see toothless tree worker)
Dont use em in trees near power lines for obvious reason.
A false sense of safety you may not cut your lanyard but 2 tie in points are best.
If you do cut below you lanyard, your gone lanyard log n all anyhoo

 

[pdqdl]

I had never considered a 'biner as an adjuster, but I suppose that would work. You would need a really large 'biner to hang up in the dee rings on my saddle. Are you using a rock climbing saddle?

How heavy/thick is your chain? It all sounds rather cumbersome to me.

 

[Sagen 78:01]

A false sense of safety you may not cut your lanyard but 2 tie in points are best.
If you do cut below you lanyard, your gone lanyard log n all anyhoo

Thank you for your pointers, that is really valuable. So do you do the second tie in just before each cut? Or do you have 2 lanyards all the time while moving around?

To clarify, my plan is to learn to safely take down trees. With spikes so it doesn't matter if I harm the tree right now. The qualified tree caring I leave for the experts for now

 

[oscar4883]

So do you do the second tie in just before each cut? Or do you have 2 lanyards all the time while moving around?

In general, two tie-ins while cutting. Sometimes two lanyards can be used, but generally a climb-line is in the mix in some fashion. One is usually used while moving around. The second tie-in comes into play when cutting or moving around an obstacle.

 

[Sagen 78:01]

You would need a really large 'biner to hang up in the dee rings on my saddle. Are you using a rock climbing saddle?

How heavy/thick is your chain? It all sounds rather cumbersome to me.

No it is a "Heightec Treehopper" arborist harness and the carabiners I have won't slide trough

The chain just need to be big enough to fit the carabiner into but I haven't got it yet. Guessing I will need something like 6mm thick (whatever that is in inches).

But just to be clear I havent even tested the things outside yet. Everything is very frosen here right now and that is unnecessary hard to begin with

My plan is to choose a tree I will eventually take down and use it as practise area. 1. no saw 2. hand saw 3. chain saw :rockn:

 

[Scrat]

Sagen,
You might want to get "The tree climbers companion" written by Jeff Jepson.
Your english is great so i'm sure you wont have trouble reading it. It is about 12-15 US Dollars, just over 100 Krona, and has great information that would be helpful for you. If you can't get it, PM me and maybe we can make arrangements to send you a copy. Where in Sweden are you located? I believe a few of my Icelandic relatives are currently living there.

 

[Sagen 78:01]

Sagen,
You might want to get "The tree climbers companion" written by Jeff Jepson.

If you can't get it, PM me and maybe we can make arrangements to send you a copy.

Thanks for the advice, I´m now waiting for a copy ordered from the UK. But I really want to thank you for your offer, that shows the spirit of web sites like these

I live in the Stockholm area on the east coast of Sweden.

 

[Scrat]

Sagen,
Glad to hear you have a copy on the way!
Be Safe
Scrat

 

[rarefish383]

Hello Sagen, my roots are from your neighbor, Norway. Although we've been in the US since the early 1700's.

I don't like the idea of chain. A rope lanyard/flip line, even well used is stiff enough to hold a form as you flip it up, I've never used steel core, adds weight, but know one guy that does on really big trees when he's using a big saw. He likes the steel core and said on big wood it flips nice.

The problem with chain is, it is limp, and hangs in the link next to your hand. You are pretty much forced to hold both ends, lean way in, and flip with both hands. With a rope flip line that holds just a little form you can hold your leading hand rather high and walk around the trunk in a spiral and not have to stop, lean in, flip, lean back, and start over. You can actually run up a nice straigh log in a few seconds versus inch worming up very slowly. I hope I explained this so that it makes sense. If i can find a video I'll post it. A picture speaks a thousnad words, as they say. Good luck, Joe.

 

[2dogs]

About ten years ago one of the tree care magazines had an article about an experienced climber who used a chain flip line. IIRC he used 1/4" grade 80 alloy chain. I don't remember what the adjustment method was though a small load rated quick link or a carabiner would work. Best to just get a spliced (rather than crimped) steel core flip line. 12 0r 14 feet of chain hanging off a saddle would be pretty heavy.

 

[Sagen 78:01]

Rarefish and 2dogs, thank you for your pointers. I do think you are correct that it is more difficult to use a chain but I will try it to start with and then I know that things can get better

I think a big difference is that trees are not really that big over here. Of course we have big trees (oak, elm, ash) but those are not supposed to be cut (in my opinion)

And also, since I don't think that I can do this for living I can be a bit slower