So I have milled a couple logs so far, a hemlock and cherry. I milled right through the pith on the trees. At 9/4 the pith was on either side of the milled boards, so I have two 9/4 milled boards with part of the pith on each board. You can see the heart on one side but not the other. I assume these two will eventually split? I'm not to concerned as they are wide enough that each side could be used for something. What is the best way to maximize the cutting around the heart of the tree?
Educate me on the "pith"
- Thread starter tater_51
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Every log is different and the pith will crack and split in different directions. I always look at the ends of the logs before milling to try and figure out the direction of the cracks in the pith. Usually both ends have similar patterns. Then I try and mill with those crack horizontal, or parallel the direction of my mill. Doing this means as I approach the pith and the cracks I can get most, if not all the cracking in one board. If you don't position the cracks this way, say position the cracks vertically, than you will get cracks in more boards. Bottom line, as you are aware you can't avoid the pith but I try and minimize the number of affected boards.
Now sawmills often mill for grade. they do this by milling around the pith. They will mill some boards than rotate the log, milling the next best face and so on. This type of milling produces higher grade lumber but does cause more waste and with a CSM it's not really feasible.
Here's a link that goes over some of the milling techniques;
https://woodmizer.com/us/Tips-and-How-To/how-to-saw-logs-into-lumber
Now sawmills often mill for grade. they do this by milling around the pith. They will mill some boards than rotate the log, milling the next best face and so on. This type of milling produces higher grade lumber but does cause more waste and with a CSM it's not really feasible.
Here's a link that goes over some of the milling techniques;
https://woodmizer.com/us/Tips-and-How-To/how-to-saw-logs-into-lumber
You can split the boards and mill out the pith. The boards will be high quality essentially quarter sawn.
Another use for the centers is to box the heart and makes beams/timbers. Saw for grade from the outside turning as you slice
Another use for the centers is to box the heart and makes beams/timbers. Saw for grade from the outside turning as you slice
What I do depends on the lot and species.
If I’m milling hemlock/fir/cedar, I’ll plan for a 3 1/2” or 5 /2” plank (size dependant on tree age) at the pith area and take a post out if the center of that plank.
With the Maples/alders, I do similar to Bmac ^^^ and plank parralel to the “log crack” to minimize effected planks.
With those, I let the crack planks dry out as full width planks burried at the bottom of a pile to weight them down.
Ripping usable areas out after it’s dry.
The pith area always splits and warps... how much is not always obvious until later.
If I’m milling hemlock/fir/cedar, I’ll plan for a 3 1/2” or 5 /2” plank (size dependant on tree age) at the pith area and take a post out if the center of that plank.
With the Maples/alders, I do similar to Bmac ^^^ and plank parralel to the “log crack” to minimize effected planks.
With those, I let the crack planks dry out as full width planks burried at the bottom of a pile to weight them down.
Ripping usable areas out after it’s dry.
The pith area always splits and warps... how much is not always obvious until later.
Depending on the wood, end coating can go a long way to keeping cracks small.
The pith is still going to move but the cracks won't propagate as far
The pith is still going to move but the cracks won't propagate as far
kimosawboy
ArboristSite Operative
Why did Mike Tyson send back his lemonade?
It tasted like pith
It tasted like pith
