so I have a craftsman 3.7 that came with what I think is called a "rim sprocket" drum. I found replacements that are the regular sprocket drum. Is there a difference or people preffer one over the other? I may have the name incorrect, please correct me if wrong, thanks!
Everyones preffered clutch drum type?
- Thread starter Efisher26
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rim sprocket=cheaper/easier to change/Ease of replacement? Is that the only difference
Cost too. But other than that yes. Two of my saws have spur sprocket's. They work fine. I will upgrade them to rim sprockets when they wear out.
lefturnfreek
Sharpen the chain, chuck chips ...repeat...
I love rim/sprocket combination but there is added noise and on some saws it's quite a bit of ringing and clicking till you load the chain.
One huge bonus is better bar and chain life as the rim self aligns so you don't have a chain that trails off to one side and damaging the chain and the tail of the bar and way less jerking of the chain so it lasts longer.
One huge bonus is better bar and chain life as the rim self aligns so you don't have a chain that trails off to one side and damaging the chain and the tail of the bar and way less jerking of the chain so it lasts longer.
bmwpowere36m3
ArboristSite Operative
Besides saws with outboard clutches... I think its a cost saving measure by the manufacturer to use spur sprockets. A spur sprocket/drum is cheaper than a drum + rim sprocket. However for the end user, when its time to replace the sprocket the rim is MUCH less. Typically the sprocket will wear well before the drum.
For the average homeowner who might never change it, its not a big deal. For the pro, that goes thru lots of chains it would add up quickly.
For the average homeowner who might never change it, its not a big deal. For the pro, that goes thru lots of chains it would add up quickly.
As noted, rim sprockets self-align, and are easier, and less expensive, to replace when worn, or to change tooth count or chain pitch. Most users would choose these if given a choice. Spur sprockets are less expensive to supply with new saws, and often found on consumer saws, that will see less use, and with smaller pitch chains (1/4", 3/8 low profile, etc.). Rim sprockets are not available for all saws or all saw/chain combinations.
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdf/sprockets/SpurSprocktFB0601.pdf
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdf/sprockets/RimSproxFB0601.pdf
Philbert
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdf/sprockets/SpurSprocktFB0601.pdf
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdf/sprockets/RimSproxFB0601.pdf
Philbert
I know I figure that, I was surprised companies like Oregon recognize the older saws people are still using, like my 3.7(3700). I have the rim in mine now and will probably keep it that way because u helpful guys Recommend it.
Bump
Spur sprockets good when they're new but when they get worn you have a problem adjusting the chain, sometimes it's too loose then it's too tight. Use the rim sprocket and it's pretty smooth all the time, even when worn..
Rim is the best setup no doubt.
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It's cheaper to replace the rim when it wears out than replacing the spur sprocket and drum. I think the rim is around $5 and the spur is about $20 or more.
The rim sprocket supports the chain load by the chain side plates and the drivers. This "spreading of the load" seems to extend the life of the sprocket. My MS260 is still sporting its factory original rim and the rim is still good even though I have cut a couple hundred ricks of firewood with it. I feel quite certain that a spur sprocket would not have lasted that long. Oh, and I will admit that sprocket is nearing its end of life.
Oh and my 360 pro gets swapped back and forth between 3/8 .050 and .325 .063 very easily with a rim set-up. (Why?....well just because I like comparing the two to see which I like best...still have not come to a conclusion on that one)
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