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People, in general, need to wean themselves from buying Chinese stuff just because it's cheaper than brand name equipment. I look at it this way... Trump will fix that issue with tarriff's that will increase that cost, substantially.
 
If our farmers took yuan for their exports they wouldn't need dollars. But our farmers would really like payment in dollars.

I guess we could stop buying things from China. But then they couldn't buy our stuff.

Works both ways
No, they would just have to buy dollars first. Oil is almost exclusively traded in dollars for instance.
 
Rings need dynamic load to be pressed into the cylinder wall, ie needs to be worked. All that idle time is pure wives tails and bs. No reason to run any other oil ratio then what you're normally going to run either. Doesn't matter if it's synthetic or not. Warm it up a bit and go cut.
Good response.
The other thing is the fact you have a limited time for break in to occur. You go past that time period and the engine never properly breaks in. IE the rings never seat properly.
 
After reading quite a number of posts here from people that know more about how a saw works than I do, I think I'm going to abandon the idle thing. First tank I'll run it in wood half or 3/4 power then go ahead and start cutting.
Warm it up and get it eat full throttle.
Good response.
The other thing is the fact you have a limited time for break in to occur. You go past that time period and the engine never properly breaks in. IE the rings never seat properly.
Cylinders glazing sucks to deal with. Fourtatnly I haven't dealt with it in many years.
 
Good response.
The other thing is the fact you have a limited time for break in to occur. You go past that time period and the engine never properly breaks in. IE the rings never seat properly.

I did that to myself with my Honda generator. Bought it new for an ice storm, and it basically idled the next 6 days, only revving up when the freezer compressor kicked on. Had a lot of other things going on, didn't even think about doing proper break in. Runs reliably, but runs like crap. Plug gets dirty, pings at low loads, blows blue smoke when throttling up, oil gets dirty fast, all the things you'd expect from improper ring seal. No clue how much less life the engine will have because of this. Hear about these things going crazy long hours but no way this one will.

Last few times I've run it have been for 4+ hours at near full load charging batteries, and that seems to be helping. Ideally I'd tear it down, hone new cross hatch in the cylinder, put new rings in it, and break it in again properly.

Properly break in your stuff, folks. You only get one shot.
 
I did that to myself with my Honda generator. Bought it new for an ice storm, and it basically idled the next 6 days, only revving up when the freezer compressor kicked on. Had a lot of other things going on, didn't even think about doing proper break in. Runs reliably, but runs like crap. Plug gets dirty, pings at low loads, blows blue smoke when throttling up, oil gets dirty fast, all the things you'd expect from improper ring seal. No clue how much less life the engine will have because of this. Hear about these things going crazy long hours but no way this one will.

Last few times I've run it have been for 4+ hours at near full load charging batteries, and that seems to be helping. Ideally I'd tear it down, hone new cross hatch in the cylinder, put new rings in it, and break it in again properly.

Properly break in your stuff, folks. You only get one shot.
Generators all have the same problem. Even with proper break in they run unloaded so long that alot of fuel gets into the oil, the plugs run dirty and eventually the rings wear prematurely to the point they burn oil.
 
Generators all have the same problem. Even with proper break in they run unloaded so long that alot of fuel gets into the oil, the plugs run dirty and eventually the rings wear prematurely to the point they burn oil.

That's been one unintended bonus of the solar power system and large battery bank. During winter in this area solar basically does nothing, so power outages are handled by generator. Now instead of idling 24/7 and reving up here and there, the generator runs at nearly full output for a few hours one day, and then not at all for a couple days. Lot better all the way around.
 
we load banked tons of generators at the shop. Usually big diesels, slobber the exhaust up to the point you'd have to take it off and burn it out, or replace it. Few times you could get them hot enough with the load bank to burn themselves out. They never lasted as long as generators that had built in load banks or were loaded heavily, regularly. All the running with no load to make sure they run is pure bs.
More or less same thing applies to small gas/gaseous generators. Although they usually break in very quickly vs diesel powered generators.
I've never personally seen someone recover a fully glazed cylinder without disassembly and new rings, so I would think performance and longevity would be greatly decreased.
 
I did that to myself with my Honda generator. Bought it new for an ice storm, and it basically idled the next 6 days, only revving up when the freezer compressor kicked on. Had a lot of other things going on, didn't even think about doing proper break in. Runs reliably, but runs like crap. Plug gets dirty, pings at low loads, blows blue smoke when throttling up, oil gets dirty fast, all the things you'd expect from improper ring seal. No clue how much less life the engine will have because of this. Hear about these things going crazy long hours but no way this one will.

Last few times I've run it have been for 4+ hours at near full load charging batteries, and that seems to be helping. Ideally I'd tear it down, hone new cross hatch in the cylinder, put new rings in it, and break it in again properly.

Properly break in your stuff, folks. You only get one shot.
try running hd30 oil in it with at least a 80% load for 5-6 hrs then change it out. if the hd30 reduces or stops the smoke keep using it..ive seen several small engines fail to seat rings properly due to having synthetic oil used as break in oil or not reading the directions to change the oil after the first hour of run time. I put magnetic drain plugs into the last brand new honda 6.5hp I broke in, I changed the oil after a hour and both plugs were afro puffs so I did it again and it was half as much material. today that engine probably has well over 3000 hours on it and the magnets stay pretty clean.
 
try running hd30 oil in it with at least a 80% load for 5-6 hrs then change it out. if the hd30 reduces or stops the smoke keep using it..ive seen several small engines fail to seat rings properly due to having synthetic oil used as break in oil or not reading the directions to change the oil after the first hour of run time. I put magnetic drain plugs into the last brand new honda 6.5hp I broke in, I changed the oil after a hour and both plugs were afro puffs so I did it again and it was half as much material. today that engine probably has well over 3000 hours on it and the magnets stay pretty clean.

It's got over 200 hours on it now, there's no saving it without honing in new cross hatch, re-ringing, and proper break in. I disagree with you on synthetic and on straight 30 weight.

I'm well versed in proper break-in procedure and have done so on plenty of other engines before and since. Had a lot going on at the time, once the generator was running and the necessities were powered back up, I had other problems to solve.
 
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