Felling a Palm tree

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heartland

ArboristSite Operative
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Jan 15, 2003
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Location
Palm Harbor, FL (near Tampa)
Hey Florida boys!

How bout you guys telling us how to fell a palm tree? Not that we have a big need for that here in Dallas, but I got to thinking about it today and wondered how different it was from regular hardwoods.... Does a hinge operate in the same manner for palms?
 
I haven't run into many palm removals in north Florida. I've only removed 2 in my short career. The customer wanted roots and all gone so I dug 'em up. I used an axe and a shovel and dug a narrow, deep trench around the tap root. I used an extention ladder to set a rope high in the top and pulled them over. In my situation I had plenty of room to just let them fall. The fall pulled the whole root system out of the ground and I used a rope puller to lift the root ball and stump into the truck.It worked great and the customer was happy.;)

I've never used a notch on a palm so I can't offer any advice there.:( Could use some tips though!

-Mike-
 
Strange for a guy in Colorado to offer info on felling palms but I felled several in Phoenix, Az about 10 years ago. standard notching technique works quite well. There is a tendency for the saw to bind in the cut on big cuts. The fibers don't leave as clean a kerf as normal wood does. Felled palms tend to "hit hard" (green ones). There is a lot of water in them which makes for a LOT of weight with little wind resistance from the top to slow the fall and no limbs to serve as shock absorbers.
 
We have never cut one. :) If customer wants it gone I just dig them up and transplant them to my yard,very easy to dig and transplant. I have lost one or two out of maybe 30.
 
I've cut a bunch of them over the years. Don't even go near one unless your saw is freshly sharpened. Otherwise the fibers in the cut area will rip instead of cut and they will fold back around the bar and chain. You WILL get the saw stuck.
Standard notch works well but the hinge wood will usually break early. You can direct a relatively vertical one but you will not reverse the fall direction on a heavy leaner.
The fronds will help cushion the fall a little but Stumper is correct that they land 'heavy'. I've broken walks and driveways dropping palms before.

That's about all I can add. :cool:
 
Excellent tip of the squirrel's about the sharp saw, as the fibre type is the most unique thing,and this is only one of it's contrivances! The fibre: makes weak hinges, doesn't tub grind, burn, chip worth a $-hit, bogs the chain drive (like protective pants does!), itches like fiberglass in the heat, gets in saw recoil/cooling fan (019 was eventually made to make this easier to clean out from trimming palms, so you didn't have to take the saw apart quite so far), buries air breather, holds sand to dull your saw at the base, etc.

They do tend to come down faster because of the weak fibre in the hinge, pulling with a high leverage line, helps give more hinge material to help this, by forcing a stronger hinge. For the fibre is just weak, not brittle; in fact i have layed them against lean because of this. Though i would only try that in otherwise perfect circumstances; we get some 'swan necked' palms that go 70' or so curving some, built with weak fibre, spots of rot and very slender; not good for cllimbing or tricky felling; especially on a windy day. The heads are quite heavier than they look, hard to cut (fibre), common homes for rodents, reptiles, birds, roaches, biting/stinging ants, bees, hornets etc.

An old dead palm can have a permeating, sour water smell all of it's own when cut open. The fronds give some cushion to falling impact, but very little air resistance for the trip down!
 
I think the biggest misconception is the weight. A sharp saw is a must, and with one they cut like butter, but it is very easy to get a saw stuck while bucking a big one. I'd rather not deal with a palm, theres just is no money in them. I usually tell people to call this local palm guy who sells them, he will usually come dig and remove them for free, or may even give you a few bucks if it is a nice tree that he can dig easily. Customers love this when they think they were about to shell out some money for the removal, you tell them a way to get it done for free or even get paid themselves. Keeps me out of the middle, but high on thier list as an honest business man. I had a guy who wanted me to remove a beautiful legustrum from his yard, it was a plant that a nursury would sell installed for about $700.
I offered to cut it down for $30 but told him to first call a local nursery I know that will come get them, they gave him $100 for it. --he was a happy guy, then had me do 2 removals for him even though my bid was $150 higher than his lowest.
 
Ya, I hear if you get a good staight one the veneer mills will drop 4-5k fot 16ft.

I know guy who acts as a go between for tree movers when he gets small evergreen removals.

If there is no UG service near by and it is an easy spade, he gets like 25-50 bucks from the movers for his time. He figures it pays for running the lead, and he gets a good referance form the customer that got the "free" service. All they need to do is work the plug down and seed over.
 
"i would rather not deal w/ a palm, there's just no money in it"

i've been doing palm removals and there's some good
money in it!!!! i've been getting $125-175 per palm.
i took down 2 30' washingtonias for 300. not bad for
3 hours work. if i would have had a helper i would have
been in and out in an hour! the only bad thing about
bucking palms is that they eat up your chains quick!!!!
palms pull up sand thru their vascular tissue into the
trunks. the closer to the base, the more sand! i never
use new chains on palms, i have a certian # of chains
that i sharpen up and use only on palms. i use the new
ones on the laurel and lives then retire them to the palm
removals:D
budroe:cool:
 
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palm woow is not worth jack %^*& . unless your carving totem poles. The only good thing there good for is the cashier at the dump.
 

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