Felling

[Doug01]

What is the best method for dropping a tree that is leaning heavily? The way it is leaning is the direction it will come down, I just don't want a barber chair. Do you bore cut then cut the back strap?

Thanks,
Doug

 

[Crofter]

Doug01:

What is the diameter. In other words is it big enough for knotch, hinge, bore, and sufficient backstrap?

Frank

 

[mboln52000]

Well Doug,
JMO, but i would knotch it pretty good first, in the direction of the lean. Then I would bore cut it, leaving a pretty good hinge to keep it straight as it falls, then cut the back strap and let it go.

You might leave a heavier back strap than normal if its a heavy leaner, and you dont want heavy tear out.

I felled smaller trees that were heavy leaners, and just knotched them and started a back cut, not messing with boring, and backstraps. I still leave the hinge, but that really depends on the size of the tree

What species is the tree? How big is it?

Matt

 

[tony marks]

i just fallum like any other tree with notches an all. just be careful,, as the timber can move awful quick on u. possible kick back involved

 

[wiley_p]

Depends on the severity of the lean and species, facecut, estimate width of holding wood, bore in continue back with a pulling chain(it is important) cut all the way if you're not undergunned on saw/dia match this is the best way. Sometimes on really crazy head leaners I'll dog in on each side cutting about 40% of dia. each side leaving a srtip back to front in line with tree's favor, stay on the balls of yoiur feet, have a good escape route and cut forward, weight bias does the rest.

 

[Doug01]

The diameter is ~ 20" give or take, species oak/hickory. There are a couple. It isn't that they have to come down, I'm just doing some clearing at my parents farm and want to increase the view. I have never done a bore cut before, just typical notch and back cut. Since the trees don't HAVE to come out I'm not in a big hurry and want to get what info I can on the leaners. (A barber chair is when the tree splits vertically and kicks back right?)

Thanks,
Doug

 

[chainsawworld]

hands on training is the best option. marty

 

[Doug01]

Thanks Rocky. I thought I read at some point in this forum (someone or many's opinion) on leaners was to make a small notch, bore, cut back stap. The way I understood it was that by boring, it took the pressure off the center of the tree preventing it splitting and barber chairing(?) opposed to just making the back cut which might cause it to split. That being the case, I would think the tree would really take off quick once the back strap was cut. In either case, I better be ready to run.

Doug

 

[bwalker]

Rocky, I disagree with your oppinion on bore cutting. This method is the safest for newbies because it allows one to lineup the hing and back cut properly with out haveing the worry about the stem moving. It also lessens the chance of cutting through the hinge.

Also keep in mind that the wood you cut ends up in the landfill. The wood I cut may end up on a log truck. I dont bore cut all the time as it takes more time, but when I encounter a leaning tree of a species that barber chair prone(red oak) I will bore cut it. I also plunge cut some of the heart wood out of the hinge also to prevent excessive fiber pull.

 

[Jacob J.]

Boring is the safest method unless the tree leans really, really hard or has a large, heavy canopy. In that scenario you'd want to use the "Coos Bay", which is where you leave a verticle strap of holding in the middle after having notched each side and then cut straight down your verticle strap, this will keep and kind of barber chair from happening.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Here is a failproof method for your leaner assuming it is of large enough dia., as Crofter noted.
Make a widefaced shallow notch (no dutchmen). Then bore the area behind the hinge wood. Cut the sides in at least the width of the bar. Then with a fast saw, blast thru the remaining holding wood. For additional insurance place a chain 24 inches above the notch with a load binder.
Or you can give chainsawworld a call, he know's all the cute little ways of getting killed, or even better, call Silver Blue.
John

 

[SilverBlue]

Sure give me a call! I’ll send over some true professionals, John I’ll send over some real loggers to show you how to do it too.

 

[Jacob J.]

Silver- are these your guys?

 

[rbtree]

Rocky,

I hate to say it, friend, but you sure showed your ignorance. As I once told you, wiley_p knows a heck of a lot more about felling than most of us here...Read and learn...

Remember, not all tree work is similar to what you have in your area.

Doug, sounds like you are on the right track. With what you know, plus great advice from Jacob, bwalker and even the great one..The gyper.

 

[chainsawworld]

open face bore cutting is the safest way for all situations.
i investagated a accident in the woods a short while back. i posted the findings with some pictures. a cutter was felling a tree with heavy head lean. he removed a small bird-beak knotch than began he back cut. the back cut was approx. 4 inches into the stump when the tree slabbed out. if i remember correctly the slap ran around 30 feet before it broke loose(putting the bell 50 to 60 feet in the air). the cutter stood there as the tree came down on him like a fly swatter. open face bore cutting gives you time to move away also. marty

 

[chainsawworld]

i found some pictures.

 

[chainsawworld]

2

 

[chainsawworld]

3

 

[John Ellison]

I side with the bore cutters if it is a hard leaner. The reason being that it is going to start moving as soon as you cut the sapwood on the opposite side of the face, if you dont have the guts cut out , it will end up looking like an arborist fell it. Just funnin

 

[Ryan Willock]

On heavy leaners I make my face cut (open face, 70*-90*) and then like John mentioned I bore out the heart by cutting in to the center of my face cut. How much you bore out depends greatly on the size of the tree. Next I start my bore cut that will form the back cut. You need to start this a few inches behind your hinge so that you don't accidentally cut your hinge wrong. Then after I have my hinge setup like I want it I come straight out the back of the tree with my saw and am quickly walking away.