Finally found the problem

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boatman

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Mar 8, 2010
Messages
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Location
michigan
I have been using my small log mill for a while and it works well. The few times I used the 36" mill I was always cutting wavy and crooked. The main problem seemed to be that the adjusting screws on the guide rails vibrated up as I cut causing all kinds of problems. Then a casting broke, maybe because of that. So I spend an hour setting up this time. 18' Rails straight, level, lock nuts on the adjusting screws.

I made 2 cuts and measured the 8" slab. 8-1/8"-8-3/4".

Turns out when I assembled the mill last year, or maybe when remounting the bar at some point, I turned around on of the verticals. So now both scales face inwards, easier for adjusting right? Well, I was adjusting the saw end scale to the casting and the other end to the clamp. 1/2" difference.


How many more of those screw ups before I can consider myself experienced? This isn't the first simple mistake Iv'e made that's for sure.


Good thing I'm building a barn and not a bath tub.










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stuff happens.glad you figured it out. i usually have a tape measure with me so i double check my bar depth with it.or just a plain stick too.
 
LMAO, i did the exact same thing last year when i got my MKIII. The previous owner had put it together so when i got it i just slapped a saw on it and went with it. Slabs kept coming out differently and a friend looked at it and said "heres your problem". I ended up having to disassemble the mill to flip flop the vertical rail so they were both visible from the same side. Works great now. Glad to see I'm not the only one.:msp_tongue: Nice pics
 
It's been pretty well determined that to be an expert in something takes about 10,000 hours of practice so it seems most of us have some way to go. :msp_ohmy:

That's good to know. I have about 2000, 8 hour days at sea. I wonder if I was an expert? Guess I'll never know.

I need to put hour meters on all my saws now.
 
We all make ones like that, glad you figured it out. Every time you mill it is a learning experience.
 
I have been using my small log mill for a while and it works well. The few times I used the 36" mill I was always cutting wavy and crooked. The main problem seemed to be that the adjusting screws on the guide rails vibrated up as I cut causing all kinds of problems. Then a casting broke, maybe because of that. So I spend an hour setting up this time. 18' Rails straight, level, lock nuts on the adjusting screws.

I made 2 cuts and measured the 8" slab. 8-1/8"-8-3/4".

Turns out when I assembled the mill last year, or maybe when remounting the bar at some point, I turned around on of the verticals. So now both scales face inwards, easier for adjusting right? Well, I was adjusting the saw end scale to the casting and the other end to the clamp. 1/2" difference.


How many more of those screw ups before I can consider myself experienced? This isn't the first simple mistake Iv'e made that's for sure.


Good thing I'm building a barn and not a bath tub.


Boatman,

I don't have inch increments for my mill for making thickness adjustments, so I cut blocks of wood in pairs at different thicknesses and insert them between the bottom of the cross bar of my mill and the top of the bar at each end. I then mark them with the different thicknesses, so I can stack them as needed for a specific cut. Works for me.

Have fun! Nice looking slabs.

jerry-
 
I too use gauge blocks and since the first cut could be anything from lets say 3" to 15" depending on the log, I will rip whatever out of a 2 x 6, 2 x 12 at the site with a cordless saw. After that I mill at 2 1/4" for the big wood. Thinking of drilling index holes for clevis pins in a 4 post Panthermill though.
 
Unless you plan for it the one time that gauge blocks didn't work was when I cut a bunch of slabs and left them stacked on the log and kept cutting over the top of them. It turned out I didn't bring enough gauge blocks of the right size with me.
 
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