finally got my mill up!!

[macstrange]

Well, its been almost a year since I got my 075. Had some issues with it. It was in the shop for a while till my mechanic gave up on it. But, with a bunch of research and help from you folks, I installed an external trigger unit and it roared to life. Made some test cuts, sharpened the chain mounted the jig and boy does she eat! I'll post a couple videos if ya like.

 

[jhall]

I love watching milling vids!

 

[Alu]

Just got a mill myself.. Please do..!

 

[macstrange]

Took some video today. Will post asap. In the meantime, I need a compression release for my 075. Mine melted and backed out. Its useless now. I've checked eBay and the web with no luck. Anyone here have one they can sell me?

 

[cityslicker]

What was the original issue your mechanic could not figure out, but a remote throttle solved? Also would a decompression delete plug work in the mean time?

 

[macstrange]

the problem was the trigger switch. Since he was a stihl mechanic he couldn't buy aftermarket parts. Bought ignition module for the ts760 and wired it the way the Stihl tech told him to and got nothing. This after a bunch of other stuff that didn't work. He gave the saw back and didn't charge me anything. I'm considering a plug but I wonder if that will vibrate out also.

 

[pete_86]

the problem was the trigger switch. Since he was a stihl mechanic he couldn't buy aftermarket parts. Bought ignition module for the ts760 and wired it the way the Stihl tech told him to and got nothing. This after a bunch of other stuff that didn't work. He gave the saw back and didn't charge me anything. I'm considering a plug but I wonder if that will vibrate out also.

Some high temp loctite would help. Don't use the red permanent, I forget what the blue is rated in temp so said high temp just to be safe

 

[macstrange]

I tried that. It didn't work. But that was before I found out I needed a seating ring. Maybe

 

[macstrange]

Here is a video before compression release failed.

 

[BobL]

Thanks for posting the vid.
Here are some tips.

With a big mill it's MUCH easier and safer to to start the engine and the cut, and finish the cut using log rails that overhang the log for all cuts.
Place the mill on the start overhang, start engine and glide into the cut
At the end of the cut leave the mill idling on the overhang to cool down and then stop the saw.
The rails have the added benefit of not transferring the defects of the previous cut onto the next cut and will produce a better finish.
Look in the Milling 101 sticky for ideas for log rails.

I note you are sideways seesawing the mill down the log. This moves the bar back and forth over previously cut kerf and will increasingly affect the quality of the finish. It won't matter quite so much when everything is new and tight but as the chain/bar/mill wear the finish will get worse and worse. If you want a good finish then establish a cutting position and maintain a forward direction will produce the best finish. I used to seesaw because it seemed faster but after timing a few cuts I found it made very little difference in cutting speed provided the chain is sharp and set up right.

Did you use any wedges?

Put the log on more of a slope means you will use less effort to drive the mill and it will go down the log under its own weight.

The 075 has a very limited oil output and with a barl that size i'd be using an aux oiler - look in the sticky for ideas.

Get a zip tie for the throttle and then you don't have to leave your left hand on the trigger. This allows the operator to put their arms into a more comfortable position.

 

[macstrange]

Thanks for the tips. I thought about the zip tie, but figured it would be a pain to cut and tie a new one each time. I was going to try a quick clamp. I did have a wedge at the rear. The slabs were 2 1/2" thick and self supporting till the end. I'll look into the aux oiler for sure.

 

[BobL]

Thanks for the tips. I thought about the zip tie, but figured it would be a pain to cut and tie a new one each time.

The tie is not made so tight as to require cutting to be removed but just tight enough so it can be slid on-off as needed

I was going to try a quick clamp. I did have a wedge at the rear.

Sorry I didn't see that go in.

The slabs were 2 1/2" thick and self supporting till the end. I'll look into the aux oiler for sure.

TTU

 

[macstrange]

Checked out "milling 101". Really enjoyed your post on chain sharpening. I did notice a little self feeding on one of the first slabs I cut. I'll have to focus more on the different angles.
TTU?

 

[pete_86]

I went out to mill a 30" pine log that had a knot so big on one end that it held itself perfectly angled down. I've never been that lucky. I'm going to try the zip tie idea, good idea. For now, I do most of my milling on my knees. I have some sawhorses I've used but they're not beefy enough for anything large. Until I come across something better, I use cinder blocks and wood blocks to elevate the end about 2' or so. Feels good to be making boards eh? I broke my chain tensioner after two cuts on my Stihl 660, now I know why last time I cut I had my chain slacken on me while cutting.

 

[john taliaferro]

Hollow cinder blocks are not good to use for holding stuff up , especially something thats vibrating that your next to and partially under.

 

[pete_86]

Hollow cinder blocks are not good to use for holding stuff up , especially something thats vibrating that your next to and partially under.

True, I just mill average size pine logs though. Would like to get a jack built and make some metal sawhorses just for milling but for now metal prices are too high.

 

[pete_86]

Here is a video before compression release failed.

Hey, thanks for vid. That saw doesn't sound very happy, almost too rich maybe or due to your valve being loose. My 660 just sings a steady tune while I mill, high pitch if I work it slow or low steady buzz loading it up. I try to work it slower and let it sing as the speed is about the same.

Also, noticed you're from AZ. Very nice pile of logs you have. I'm from northeast and didn't think there were trees that large in AZ. My plans if I move out there due to work were to get a larger trailer and haul some back from the nearby states.

 

[macstrange]

Mesquite is the most popular material as far as local timber. Large trees are hard to come by though. Most of the big stuff comes from Texas, Mexico. We have a fair amount of eucalyptus in the southwest, brought here from Australia about a hundred years ago. I took down two tress that were 60-70' tall, 40' across. About 30" dbh. I picked up a bunch from a phoenix golf resort that died due to hard freeze. One is 44" at the base. Eucalyptus can be very unstable though, requiring filling cracks and checks with epoxy resin similar to what is done with mesquite. The largest tree in Tucson is a euc 95' tall 72" dbh.

 

[kimosawboy]

Not often that a milling video actually makes me cringe!!!
Either your saw or your chain is out of whack. Are you using a guide for your sharpening???? Milling chain/skip ???? Post up some picks of the chain you are running. Get rid of ''your'' mechanic and go to a dealer that works on your brand of saws and get your saw fixed so at least you know how it is supposed to sound and cut.
Do everything that Bobl says but you might want to try a Nerf ball instead of a zip tie.
G Vavra

 

[macstrange]

Chain is standard. Going to modify. I had to get it running myself because Stihl dealer wont use aftermarket parts. I'm happy I was able to get it running. I must say, after listening to the video again, it does sound like ish! When I get the new compression release, I'll have the carb tweaked.
Sounds like compression release was coming loose at that point, if it hadn't backed all the way out.