Finally got some action for my Homie C-51 and my Jonsered 52E. Questions...

[roosterhog]

Finally got around to cutting down this big red oak that died on my place and got to test out a couple of old saws (Homelite C-51 and Jonsered 52E) that you guys helped me get going. Both have freshly re-build carbs. This is my first time for running "real" saws vs. light duty stuff. Need your opinion on what happened.

The C-51 runs and idles like a champ, but it wasn't the beast I thought it would be. I'm running a 21" bar with about 18" of it buried in wood (can't get more than that because of the big great white shark tooth spikes on it). The saw cut through it, but it would bog if you weren't careful. Has a new very sharp chain. I was making wads of big chips, but I was kind of dissappointed in the power. Is that just sort of par for the course for this old saw or am I missing something. I adjusted the carb and it helped, but still kind of weak. It will get the job done, but I was hoping for more. Were my hopes too high?

The Jonsered 52E idles crazy. Runs fine in wood, but can't keep it idling. I can adjust the idle and the L screw and get it purring - only to have to do it all over again after 4 or 5 cuts. Why Why Why Dedgummitt? It's also weird that it idles way too fast until it warms up. Any clues?

Thanks guys!

 

[struggle]

ON the C-51 is it running to lean? I have a Mac 660 gear reduction saw that I thought was running fine but another member Mark H adjusted the carb (at the Iowa GTG) a little richer and I could not stop/bog the saw after that.

Try a richer setting. The older saws I do not think like lean settings.

 

[SawTroll]

.... The Jonsered 52E idles crazy. Runs fine in wood, but can't keep it idling. I can adjust the idle and the L screw and get it purring - only to have to do it all over again after 4 or 5 cuts. Why Why Why Dedgummitt? It's also weird that it idles way too fast until it warms up. Any clues?

Thanks guys!

Maybe a dumb question, but did you remember to press the trigger as soon as it started?

 

[roosterhog]

Maybe a dumb question, but did you remember to press the trigger as soon as it started?

Do you mean the throttle? Yes.

It runs fine if you go from wood to wood. It's when you have to put the saw down to move a log or sticks or something that it wants to die. You can re-adjust, and it will run fine for awhile and then back to not idling. Constant struggle on idling.

 

[Cantdog]

OK..I'll give you a couple suggestions on the 52E...you said that it has a new carb kit? First are your fuel line connections nice and tight? No leaks or pin holes in the lines? There are two conections outside the tank and one inside. Next did you use the gasket that came with the kit between the carb and the manifold?? If you did, these gaskets do work on these saws, the outside area is to small and do not completely cover the impulse corridor causing the carb to not pump fuel correctly and also creating an air/vac leak. So you either have to make a new gasket that has a larger outside area or if you have a Husky dealer close by go pick up a carb gasket for a 61/266/268/272.
The next thing and probably the culprit is you have a bad crank seal ( or two) I already deal with fuel systems and carb gaskets correctly so if I have one of these saws that won't idle properly a set of seal cures the problem.

 

[roosterhog]

OK..I'll give you a couple suggestions on the 52E...you said that it has a new carb kit? First are your fuel line connections nice and tight? No leaks or pin holes in the lines? There are two conections outside the tank and one inside. Next did you use the gasket that came with the kit between the carb and the manifold?? If you did, these gaskets do work on these saws, the outside area is to small and do not completely cover the impulse corridor causing the carb to not pump fuel correctly and also creating an air/vac leak. So you either have to make a new gasket that has a larger outside area or if you have a Husky dealer close by go pick up a carb gasket for a 61/266/268/272.
The next thing and probably the culprit is you have a bad crank seal ( or two) I already deal with fuel systems and carb gaskets correctly so if I have one of these saws that won't idle properly a set of seal cures the problem.

cantdog: You actually helped me some months back with that manifold gasket suggestion and it was advice that got me back on track to as good as I am today. The fuel lines are all new. On the crank seals...forgive my ignorance - what are those? Are we talking the seals on the outsides of the crankshaft - one near the flywheel and one near the clutch? Thanks!

 

[DSS]

A c-51 is a whole different animal from a new saw. If you are used to a newer high revving saw it will take some getting used to. The RPM just isn't there, but that saw should run a 24'' bar with no trouble. It's a torque monster, not a high rpm screamer.

They aren't real fast but they are steady. And fun. Just the sound.:msp_smile:

 

[Cantdog]

cantdog: You actually helped me some months back with that manifold gasket suggestion and it was advice that got me back on track to as good as I am today. The fuel lines are all new. On the crank seals...forgive my ignorance - what are those? Are we talking the seals on the outsides of the crankshaft - one near the flywheel and one near the clutch? Thanks!

Sorry for giving to much info....I lose track....

Yes the crank seals are behind the flywheel and clutch spyder. Go to the search function and search "40SP and 70E builds from scratch" I show this process and what the size of seals you need. This is an amount of effort but your saw will respond very well to new seals. These are old saws and by now are ready for new ones. Good luck...

 

[homelitejim]

A c-51 is a whole different animal from a new saw. If you are used to a newer high revving saw it will take some getting used to. The RPM just isn't there, but that saw should run a 24'' bar with no trouble. It's a torque monster, not a high rpm screamer.

They aren't real fast but they are steady. And fun. Just the sound.:msp_smile:

I agree on the C-51, also tune it in the wood, a tach will be most handy but you can also do it by ear with a little practice and a lot of tuning. I can't remember the exact operating rpm but I think it is between 6000 to 6500 in the cut. If you lean on it, it will stall out with a sharp chain, let it self feed with minimal pressure keeping the rpm's in the operating range, this will take practice. Once you are dialed in you will have much fun cutting wood with it.

 

[roosterhog]

Sorry for giving to much info....I lose track....

Yes the crank seals are behind the flywheel and clutch spyder. Go to the search function and search "40SP and 70E builds from scratch" I show this process and what the size of seals you need. This is an amount of effort but your saw will respond very well to new seals. These are old saws and by now are ready for new ones. Good luck...

Well Mr. Cantdog...I found the thread and that was really an impressive job. That repair pretty much goes way beyond my skill set. I'm hoping my problem is somewhere in the carb. I'll keep tinkering. If it is the seals...it will likely become an ornamental piece. Thanks for your help. The progress I have made to date with it came from you.

 

[roosterhog]

I agree on the C-51, also tune it in the wood, a tach will be most handy but you can also do it by ear with a little practice and a lot of tuning. I can't remember the exact operating rpm but I think it is between 6000 to 6500 in the cut. If you lean on it, it will stall out with a sharp chain, let it self feed with minimal pressure keeping the rpm's in the operating range, this will take practice. Once you are dialed in you will have much fun cutting wood with it.

I think you're right. I need to richen it up a bit...and when I put pressure on the saw, it stalled it. I have to keep in mind that the saw has quite a bit of pressure being put on it already because it weighs a ton.

 

[Cantdog]

Well Mr. Cantdog...I found the thread and that was really an impressive job. That repair pretty much goes way beyond my skill set. I'm hoping my problem is somewhere in the carb. I'll keep tinkering. If it is the seals...it will likely become an ornamental piece. Thanks for your help. The progress I have made to date with it came from you.

Thank you for the kind words. The 52/52E lower end is identicle to the 49SPs in the thread. The seals are very easy to replace but you would have to fabricate a simple puller to remove the clutch spyder and flywheel. The good news is the patern for the three puller bolts is the same for both. It would be a shame to retire an otherwise good pro built vintage Jonsereds on account of a couple $5.00 seals.

 

[roosterhog]

I agree on the C-51, also tune it in the wood, a tach will be most handy but you can also do it by ear with a little practice and a lot of tuning. I can't remember the exact operating rpm but I think it is between 6000 to 6500 in the cut. If you lean on it, it will stall out with a sharp chain, let it self feed with minimal pressure keeping the rpm's in the operating range, this will take practice. Once you are dialed in you will have much fun cutting wood with it.

Richened the C-51 up a bit more and ran it some more in the big red oak I've been battling. I got a lot more power out of it. Thanks guys for your help. I was incorrectly thinking to get more power I would need to get more RPM's by going leaner. I was wrong...but now I'm really happy! :smile2: