First Cuts for a new CSM

[Jordan3605]

The other day i took a 4 hour drive to buy a used 066 and was happily informed the owner also had a granberg MK III (24) that he would also sell. So i ended up leaving with a strong running Stihl 066 and a complete Granberg Mill w/ 20/25" Stihl bar/chain
made my first cuts last night but due to the snow i wasn't able to continue today.... I guess i'll just be dreaming of possibilities till next weekend!
heres the two live edge maple boards i cut. 2 1/2" thickness about 5 ft. long
View attachment 279766

I will take some pictures of the process and be looking forward to suggestions as im a first timer in the subject

 

[hamish]

Congrats, let the fun begin.

 

[Mac88]

Looks good. Have fun. More pics. :msp_biggrin:

 

[Jordan3605]

looking for tips on entering and ending cuts. Any tips would help. I don't know how to "extend" the log so i can rest my csm on both sides of the log being cut. Any suggestions?
p.s. i have found starting and ending a cut to be the most difficult task to getting a consistent cut....

 

[john taliaferro]

Go to the stickie at top of page Bob has got it covered . I try ed the u channel with angle iron cross pices and tack it on with dobble headed concrete form nails . Got a pair of 20' 16.00 $ each and cut them at 8' and 12 ' whitch does most of my logs .Ive made a splice but neaver had to use it . Their stronger than a ladder and break down for storage .

 

[mortenh]

looking for tips on entering and ending cuts. Any tips would help. I don't know how to "extend" the log so i can rest my csm on both sides of the log being cut. Any suggestions?
p.s. i have found starting and ending a cut to be the most difficult task to getting a consistent cut....

Two postings from the sticky thread, a DIY aluminum ladder bracket:

• Using a ladder as an Alaskan land
• Fabricating the brackets holding the ladder

 

[SDB777]

Moved from Maine to Arkansas back in the early 80's.....I go back to visit my folks, but never during the winter. Snow always ruins plans, fun, and anything but feeding the woodstove! Don't worry though, you'll get to slab some more come black-fly season!!!!

I'll be up for the Fryeburg Fair....


What kind of Maple you mill there? Red? Doesn't look like Rock Maple.... Got plans for those pieces yet?






Scott (snow is a four letter word) B

 

[excess650]

I use 2x4s screwed to aluminum angle brackets to make my top cut, and prefer my 2x4s to be at least 2' longer than the log so as to be able to start and end cuts with the mill supported. Starting a 2nd cut without support takes a bit of practice, but a 2x6/8/10 could be laid on top of the initial cut as a guide.

A 28" bar will allow you maximium width cutting with that 24" mill. If you have bigger logs, get a set of 36" rails for the Alaskan, and a 36" bar. 30" wide cuts will work an 066/660 pretty hard, and the slabs will be heavy.

If you haven't read up on milling, I suggest that you do so. A sharp chain is a must, and tuning your saw rich on the H side will help it stay cooler. I run my fuel at 40-1 and haven't had any issues.

 

[Jordan3605]

Actually didn't really look at what type it is. Was late one night when i got the mill together and grabbed a piece from the firewood pile.
I think they will be used for our new shelves for saws.
As far as the mill usage. I plan on building a small three sided structure (to start) on my mothers land on a lake in Enfield, ME.

 

[Jordan3605]

I use 2x4s screwed to aluminum angle brackets to make my top cut, and prefer my 2x4s to be at least 2' longer than the log so as to be able to start and end cuts with the mill supported. Starting a 2nd cut without support takes a bit of practice, but a 2x6/8/10 could be laid on top of the initial cut as a guide.

A 28" bar will allow you maximium width cutting with that 24" mill. If you have bigger logs, get a set of 36" rails for the Alaskan, and a 36" bar. 30" wide cuts will work an 066/660 pretty hard, and the slabs will be heavy.

If you haven't read up on milling, I suggest that you do so. A sharp chain is a must, and tuning your saw rich on the H side will help it stay cooler. I run my fuel at 40-1 and haven't had any issues.

Sounds like a good idea, that would save some money on materials alos.

planned on buying a 36" set-up at some point in the future. if i did that would a full skip, relieve some of the stress on the saw?

I will be buying a book ASAP, any suggestions.

THANKS!!!

 

[excess650]

Sounds like a good idea, that would save some money on materials alos.

planned on buying a 36" set-up at some point in the future. if i did that would a full skip, relieve some of the stress on the saw?

I will be buying a book ASAP, any suggestions.

THANKS!!!

I think you should just read the threads here, and Bob's in particular, rather than trying to buy a book.

Bailey's sells the rails seperately from the mill, so you can convert your 24" to 36". I did exactly that with mine.

Full skip cuts very roughly as does full chisel chain. Your best bet is with ripping chain, or semi-chisel (Stihl RM is an excellent choice). Keeping the chain sharp and rakers low enough so that the chain can cut is key.

 

[excess650]

I went over to a friend's house today and milled some walnut logs. The logs were as long as my 2x4s, so we scabbed a couple of pieces onto the 8' 2x4s to make starting the mill easier. In that the log was ~20", I put my 32" B&C on instead of the 36". Truthfully, a 28" would have been great, but I have a gap between 24" and 32"...to be rectified. My 32" chain appeared to have been sharpened on the grinder, but the cutters were pretty long. I made a couple of cuts and then decided to touch up the chain. I used a Stihl 13/64" file and then went around and lowered all of the rakers. The first cut after the sharpening was noticeably grabby, but subsequent cuts were smooth. My 066 was cutting more quickly than I could recall, and the chips were bigger. I touched up the chain once more, and ended with 10 slabs, so at least 13 cuts. I'll have to actually measure the raker depths vs gullet widths, but suspect that I've generally left my rakers too high.

Another observation, and something that I've thought of numerous times in the past, is attaching a vertical cylinder as a roller on the powerhead side so that it can more easily roll over uneven contours.

I'll post a few pictures later...after I eat and have another Guinness.....the first photo shows the log with my 2x4s in place. The 8' 2x4s were lengthened by scabbing on other 2x4s so as to add length for easier, more stable starting of the cut. The log is elevated so as to allow gravity to help the saw feed. Sections of 2x4 can be added between the 2x4s to contact the log for a vibration dampening.

This photo shows my aluminum angle that I screw to the log to affix the 2x4s. This piece is 18" long and works in most of the instances that I've used it. I have had occasion to need to to raise the angle on one end of a log, and used a piece of plywood affixed to the end of the log so as to raise the angle. There have been instances where I wished that the angle was wider, but simply raising it would have sufficed.