First Grinder Suggestions

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AaronB

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I got approved by SWMBO that I could get a bench top grinder to help speed up sharpening my chains, probably let me father-in-law use it as well.

I have been deciding between the Maxx Grinder and the Oregon w/hydraulic assist grinder, not much difference in price.

Opinions on these two, suggestions. Will be sharpening my ripping chains of course plus the regular chains, so I guess I need on that will do between 10 & 35 degrees top angle (if I am saying that correctly?) maybe all grinders do this.

Remember I have never used one of these before or seen one, what I am not sure of is how a grinding wheel make the gullet rounded like a round file does when I hand sharpen. Would a grinding wheel make it more square?

Thanks for any info.
 
Aaron,

The wheels are dressed, so that the wheel profile will roughly match the cutter.

I don't have either of the grinders you mentioned. I tend to buy the best machine that I can afford & (so far) don't have any regrets.
 
Maxx owners either love 'em or hate 'em. Never tried one myself.

The 511ax is a decent unit. The vise -- perhaps the most important part of any grinder -- is more accurate than the 511a or the knock-offs, but it is also fragile.

Same goes for the 511ax cousins, the Jolly Star and the Speed Sharp.

Never used a hydraulic assist, so not sure how worthwhile it would be.
 
Simple question, I see the Maxx tilts both directions, I am assuming that is so you can do both sides of the chain without messing with some settings. The Oregon 511ax (or hydraulic) doesn't do that correct?

is that a big deal, is it easier to get all the teeth the same since it tilts both directions?

EDIT*****after reading I guess the Maxx tilts so that you grind "into" the tooth, guess that causes less burring?
 
Last edited:
Simple question, I see the Maxx tilts both directions, I am assuming that is so you can do both sides of the chain without messing with some settings. The Oregon 511ax (or hydraulic) doesn't do that correct?

is that a big deal, is it easier to get all the teeth the same since it tilts both directions?

EDIT*****after reading I guess the Maxx tilts so that you grind "into" the tooth, guess that causes less burring?


Yes you grind into the chain with out leaving a burr and you get the cutter the same lenght on both sides. The Maxx is great for your milling chains as well as the regular ones. Jim
P.S. I will be selling my grinders, mill and all support equipment here on this site as soon as I can get the list made up an get it to them to post.
 
I have the Oregon 511ax and love it....

Maxx owners either love 'em or hate 'em. Never tried one myself.

The 511ax is a decent unit. The vise -- perhaps the most important part of any grinder -- is more accurate than the 511a or the knock-offs, but it is also fragile.

Same goes for the 511ax cousins, the Jolly Star and the Speed Sharp.

Never used a hydraulic assist, so not sure how worthwhile it would be.

That grinder will last my lifetime,,and thats why I spent the extra money for it...All metal,,no plastic frame...
I checked the cutter length with calipers after sharpening both sides,,and all within .005 thousands which is excellent...
Mine dont have the hydra. assist,,,and why I didnt want that option was for down the road,,leaks from o rings getting worn and weak vice clamping...I rather take the few seconds of clampin by hand and know things are tight.
Mine have saved me alot of time from the old joint and file device I used so many years ago....Am I sorry I spent the money for it...No...But I guess it is how much you cut and have to sharpen too....
 
Yes you grind into the chain with out leaving a burr and you get the cutter the same lenght on both sides. The Maxx is great for your milling chains as well as the regular ones. Jim
.
Haven't seen you post much here.

For those who haven't seen some of your pics they should look at your chain storage method.
attachment.php

That's about what I'm trying to do with mine. Very efficient, keeps them untangled and sharp. It never made snse to me to spend time sharpening chains then store them so they dull just rubbing against themselves.
 
Haven't seen you post much here.

For those who haven't seen some of your pics they should look at your chain storage method.

That's about what I'm trying to do with mine. Very efficient, keeps them untangled and sharp. It never made snse to me to spend time sharpening chains then store them so they dull just rubbing against themselves.

I like that method, been try to find a storage method where the chains wont tangle during transport. What keeps the chain from sliding down and bunching up at the bottom?
 
This is my 0.063 - 3/8 storage/transport method. It carries a lot on chain in a small space.
attachment.php

I roll the sharp one around my hand and tie them off with a cable tie and they usually unravel without a tangle.

I have a similar 404 case and a small chain (lopro etc) box as well. The rest are in tangles or on hooks in the shed.
 
I have an older version of the Oregon 511AX and it's been an excelent grinder. Back when i bought it, it cost me about $200 bucks, and i think it was worth the extra coin i paid to get a better grinder over the cheapo's that i also looked at.

What pushed me to get the better grinder was, a friend had one and also a cheapo grinder, and he showed me how much better built and stiffer the Oregon grinder was.

I've made a few bucks sharpening chains for others too, so it has had some payback too.

Not long ago i bought a cheapo Harbor Freight grinder that i had planned to set up to grind rakers. Once i got it out of the box, i realized it won't adjust the head to the upright position so i haven't used it.

I'm glad i bought the Oregon when i did...

Rob
 
Neat idea Bob!!!

This is my 0.063 - 3/8 storage/transport method. It carries a lot on chain in a small space.
attachment.php

I roll the sharp one around my hand and tie them off with a cable tie and they usually unravel without a tangle.

I have a similar 404 case and a small chain (lopro etc) box as well. The rest are in tangles or on hooks in the shed.

I save the boxes that I get from Baileys and after awhile the cardboard boxes get pretty ragged out...Got 2 diffrent chains,,length,,and I always kept the boxes and stuffed in in my tool box for milling...I like your chain box....Can lable that for diffrent lengts,,and pitches....pretty cool ... :clap:
 
Mine will last my life time....

I have an older version of the Oregon 511AX and it's been an excelent grinder. Back when i bought it, it cost me about $200 bucks, and i think it was worth the extra coin i paid to get a better grinder over the cheapo's that i also looked at.

What pushed me to get the better grinder was, a friend had one and also a cheapo grinder, and he showed me how much better built and stiffer the Oregon grinder was.

I've made a few bucks sharpening chains for others too, so it has had some payback too.

Not long ago i bought a cheapo Harbor Freight grinder that i had planned to set up to grind rakers. Once i got it out of the box, i realized it won't adjust the head to the upright position so i haven't used it.

I'm glad i bought the Oregon when i did...

Rob

I was about gettin into sharpenings chains for some few extra bucks last year cause of work was slow,,but we picked back up...This Oregon is a couple years old now and still tight as ever...
I'd rather use the old file and joint or file by hand beside of buying a cheepy grinder....When you buy a grinder,,check the play in the bushings,,sloppyness...I always say,,you get what you pay for,,but I understand alot of folks wanna get away from hand filing and try to save time and money...Why not wait and hand file a few more chains,,,save and get you something,,that is if your seriously into cuttin wood,,get something that will last a lifetime...
 
I have a MAXX, and am very happy with it. It takes a little while to figure out exactly how you like to use it, but it gives a fine sharp to a chain. You may be able to put a switch into an 511 to get it to spin in reverse so it doesent leave an outside burr, but this does throw stuff at you. I went with the MAXX because of the abilty to grind from either side, and because it has a mechanical clamping system, as opposed to hydraulic. I dont want to have to mess with some gasket or o ring years down the road. Of course, the Silvey looks pretty sweet, just couldnt bring myself to plunk down the cash.
Dennis.
 
I have a 511A. It works well. I can get parts for it. It will keep its resale value. Avoid the knock offs if you can.

The hydraulic clamp saves time if you are doing a lot of chains, but some people have had problems with the clamp. if it fails, you are SOL.

Philbert
 
I got approved by SWMBO that I could get a bench top grinder to help speed up sharpening my chains, probably let me father-in-law use it as well.

I have been deciding between the Maxx Grinder and the Oregon w/hydraulic assist grinder, not much difference in price.

Opinions on these two, suggestions. Will be sharpening my ripping chains of course plus the regular chains, so I guess I need on that will do between 10 & 35 degrees top angle (if I am saying that correctly?) maybe all grinders do this.

Remember I have never used one of these before or seen one, what I am not sure of is how a grinding wheel make the gullet rounded like a round file does when I hand sharpen. Would a grinding wheel make it more square?

Thanks for any info.

Just a followup note on the Oregon W/hydraulic assist grinder. I emailed Oregon's technical assistance dept. to get a clarification about the utility of the hydraulic assist. This is what I got in reply:

Good morning Stanley,

Yes I will send you a video of the 511A grinder, please note that the 511A has been discontinued and replaced by the 511AX. Regarding the 109179 hydraulic assist. Unless you are using this grinder all day every day as this grinder is intended for heavy use; the hydraulics tend to not stay “primed”

Best Regards,
Alison Heynderickx
Technical Customer Service
Oregon Cutting Systems, Blount Inc.
503.653.4706
800.223.5168 Toll free
503.353.6423 fax

I decided to just go with 511AX and am waiting patiently for my order to arrive from Bailey's anytime.:blob2:
 
Regarding the 109179 hydraulic assist. Unless you are using this grinder all day every day as this grinder is intended for heavy use; the hydraulics tend to not stay “primed”

So - what's the duty cycle of the 511A?
Also - what about the Oregon Bench Mounted Mini Grinder (115 Volt)? That's only $200.
This compact grinder is a great alternative to full sized bench grinders. Although it doesn't have the size and power to grind through piles of chain a day, it does an excellent job of sharpening chains for the casual user. It comes with one 3/16" grinding wheel for sharpening standard 3/8" pitch chains and .404" pitch chains. It also comes with a wheel-dressing brick, and a template for pitch, depth-gauge setting, and wheel contour. It will sharpen most 1/4", .325", and mini 3/8"-pitch chains with the purchase of an 1/8" wheel. Runs on standard 115 volt power.
If the regular non-hydraulic is designed to
grind through piles of chain a day
is the mini good enough for a pile a year?
 
Oregon 511 A

Gemniii
Don't know the duty cycle of the 511A. It looks like its discontinued.The Mini Grinder maybe a fine choice but I didn't research it or look at.
 

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