First saw to start with?

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Brian13

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I have a friend who want to get started in milling. Will be occasional use with smaller size wood to start with 12" to 18". I know bigger is better, and not enough will end up burning up the saw. What is the minimum recommendation to start with. Doesnt have to be a new saw either, older Macs Homelites that would work will be ok too. Whatever it is, it will probably be a busted up saw that I will rebuild. I dont know enough about milling to make an accurate suggestion, I am just trying to help get her started in the right direction. For getting started would something like a Mac 250 work or not enough? I can set it up with a auto oiler to go along with the manual oiler. Just not sure if its enough saw.

Thanks,
Brian
 
i know that i will get screemed at but to start a 60 cc saw will do fine in logs under 18 inches i started with a ms 361 and it did fine but after about 10 logs i upgraded to an 84 cc saw and will never go back the most improtent part it a sharp chain and sharpening often
 
Any size will work but the smaller the saw the smaller the size of log you can tackle and the gentler with the saw you will have to be.
I milled about 20 short logs with my 50 cc Homelite before I got my 076.
Saw should be tuned a little rich and let cool down between cuts.

I still mill smaller stuff with my 441 (70cc) as it is much lighter and easier on the operator than.
For long term milling of small stuff I would suggest 60 cc or bigger but it won't be long before you'll be drooling over bigger logs and saws!
 
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Thanks, that opens up the selection a bit more. Given the choice between torque and chain speed, which is more important? Reason I ask is I can build a larger older saw cheaper than a newer smaller saw. But given the response so far might start looking at an 044 to start with.
 
<snip>I am just trying to help get her started in the right direction.<snip>
You mention "her". Take into consideration physical capability. Nothing against "her" type people but they are often built slighter, thus a 660 w/ 42" bar, an Alaskan Mark III, and an aux oiler may be unmanageable and not used.

i know that i will get screemed at but to start a 60 cc saw will do fine in logs under 18 inches
DARN RIGHT YOU WILL GET SCREAMED AT! I'D NEVER START WITH A 60CC SAW. AT LEAST A 62CC! :)

I used a 62 CC JD w/ a 28" bar for my first tree, a red maple. Sharp chains, lots of oil, patience, and soft wood helps.

Thanks, that opens up the selection a bit more. Given the choice between torque and chain speed, which is more important? Reason I ask is I can build a larger older saw cheaper than a newer smaller saw. But given the response so far might start looking at an 044 to start with.

Muffler mod IF it will help. I've read of some saws that do not benefit much from a muff mod. An 044 will.

Since you don't have a saw look for inboard clutch (easier to swap chains on the run), side chain tensioner (LOT's easier to use), over adequate oiler (many Stihls are stingy on oil).

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
torq vs speed is something that can be chainged if you can instal a rim sprocket it all depends on the saw if you have a high torq saw and want more chainspeed all you have to do is run a bigger rim sprocket to get more chainspeed you have to balance this out though to big of sprocket and you will have an underpowered saw that will cut through
a 14 in branch in a second but wont cut a 20 in log
 
Well....

with a little eggnog and brandy I'm gonna say the minimum you should start with would be an
090. Then you won't have to buy another. If your gonna fix it and make it work then just do it once instead of 2 or 4 times. The only thing worse than having to do something (well work maybe) is having to do it over again cause you didn't do it right the first time. Well thats my eggnog opinion and I reserve the right to reneg or maybe even apologize later. From one Brian to another.

Old Blue
Unmerciful taxation with no representation in
Kali-bone-ya
 
You mention "her". Take into consideration physical capability. Nothing against "her" type people but they are often built slighter, thus a 660 w/ 42" bar, an Alaskan Mark III, and an aux oiler may be unmanageable and not used.


DARN RIGHT YOU WILL GET SCREAMED AT! I'D NEVER START WITH A 60CC SAW. AT LEAST A 62CC! :)

I used a 62 CC JD w/ a 28" bar for my first tree, a red maple. Sharp chains, lots of oil, patience, and soft wood helps.



Muffler mod IF it will help. I've read of some saws that do not benefit much from a muff mod. An 044 will.

Since you don't have a saw look for inboard clutch (easier to swap chains on the run), side chain tensioner (LOT's easier to use), over adequate oiler (many Stihls are stingy on oil).

Good luck and keep us posted.

I have taken here capability into consideration. In all honesty it would be inexperience more so than capability that is weighing on what saw to suggest to her. In the end a smaller saw is going to be easiest to learn with. I like the inboard clutches myself, and I have also heard some Stihls are stingy on oil and the 044 is one of them.


with a little eggnog and brandy I'm gonna say the minimum you should start with would be an
090. Then you won't have to buy another. If your gonna fix it and make it work then just do it once instead of 2 or 4 times. The only thing worse than having to do something (well work maybe) is having to do it over again cause you didn't do it right the first time. Well thats my eggnog opinion and I reserve the right to reneg or maybe even apologize later. From one Brian to another.

Old Blue
Unmerciful taxation with no representation in
Kali-bone-ya

How about a Mcc 797:msp_thumbsup:.


Thanks for the help so far, there are a lot more saws now to choose from than what I was originally thinking.
 
On the other hand, to get the full experience of CAD, you should start with a small saw and then gradually buy bigger and bigger saws. My son has done most of the milling because he has more time than me, but we started him with a Poulan 4620avx(?) and a Granberg small log mill. A reconditioned saw from Northern Tool.

He milled a fair amount of two red maples we had planted about 25 years ago around the house that had gotten to be about 18 to 20 inch diameter large end of the log. Some cuts had to be finished from the other side because the bar didn't reach all the way through. The saw is still going; it has not burnt up or seized. It can be done. It could be luck. No modifications to the saw other than replacing the 'tool-less' chain adjuster with a normal one.

He now mills with a Husqvarna 281XP, 36" bar and a Granberg Alaskan, all bought from craigslist. In between, there have been at least half a dozen saws and two home built mills. This is in about a year and a half.
 

That's me.

He milled a fair amount of two red maples we had planted about 25 years ago around the house that had gotten to be about 18 to 20 inch diameter large end of the log. Some cuts had to be finished from the other side because the bar didn't reach all the way through. The saw is still going; it has not burnt up or seized. It can be done. It could be luck. No modifications to the saw other than replacing the 'tool-less' chain adjuster with a normal one.

We replaced the air filter once.
The lumber came out embarrassingly bad- extremely rough and a lot thicker in the middle than the ends. I had to rip everything to under 12" with a circular saw to take off a lot with a planer, which left bowed and twisted boards.
But that was because the end of the bar was not attached to anything, not because the saw was too small.

definitely get ripping chain.
 
I am still glad that I listened to the people that recommended a 395xp. :) :heart: Am sure you could be okay with less. but I honestly wouldn't want to now that I know the difference.
 

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