First time using the alaskan CSM

[BuzzKut]

Well I finally got the 084 running that I had to rebuild after siezing the P&C which was only possible because of this site and all the help and information here. I was a bit reluctant to run it but fired it up and tuned it. It has the NON-adjustable carb (high speed needle is seated at 0 turns). Does anyone have experience milling with this saw and know if that high speed setting can or should be turned out to run richer for milling?? Or should it just be left at "0". The saw seemed to run fine and had lots of power to slab up a log from a large spruce but just want to be sure to tune it right. I don't have a tach so just going by ear.

Anyways once I sorted some things out in the field the milling went quite well and I managed to get a bunch of 2x4's out of this one log. I mean this is fun to be able to go in the bush and come back home with a bunch of lumber. I think I'm hooked on this idea, I got lots of projects in mind now.

 

[mtngun]

My guess is that "Zero" is the nominal suggested setting, and you could turn it out to richen it, if necessary. But that's just a guess, never seen/heard of that carb before.

Some of the 084s have limited coils so tuning can be complicated if that is the case with your coil. The service manual has a suggested routine for the limited coil, setting to a particular RPM then turning out an additional 1/2 turn, or something like that. Prolly different procedure for your mystery carb, anyway.

Thanks for the pics.

 

[BobL]

I'm guessing but have a look under the screw and see if there is a washer or something you can take out. Also maybe post on the CS forum for more info.

Nice work on the wood BTW!

 

[BIG JAKE]

:agree2: Yep, post on chainsaw forum-If you have a limited coil, I'm thinking you should still be able to tune, as an over rich will sound different than the limited sound (missing number of sparks at the plug vs overrich)-two distinctly different sounds. Limiter protects against over rev, while tuning slightly rich protects against over temp. Try tuning up to the limiter then opening hi speed till you come off that a little and should be fine(always tune at operating temperatures). If you can't do this I'd lose that carb and get an adjustable one, but the new one will need to be jetted the same. You really need to control the mixture to get max life out of any milling saw. Have you done pressure and vac tests on the saw now that you have rebuild done?
Nice lumber thanks for posting!

 

[BuzzKut]

Hmm a limited coil too? I don't know if it has a limited coil, but suppose I could turn the high speed needle out a bit to see how it sounds. I did post on chainsaw forum so will see if I can figure this out. Seller told me it was in good running condition but apparently it had an air leak (it siezed right away). Although it was an expensive way to learn a lesson I it was a good learing experience to rebuild it and now own a vac & pressure tester and did do a vac and pressure test after rebuild (and no more leaks). Maybe I should think about getting a tach as well to set the saw up for milling, is it worth it?? Is there any inexpensive ones that work well?

Thanks for the replies so far.

 

[mtngun]

is it worth it?? Is there any inexpensive ones that work well?

The only inexpensive tach is the ENM, which takes 5 seconds to catch up with the saw. 5 seconds is a long time when the saw is spinning WOT.

Let's see what the chainsaw forum has to say about your weird carb before worrying about the tach and coil.