Fixin' to do it

[RikBrooks]

I have all the equipment I need for milling. I have several trees felled and chopped into the 16 foot lengths cuz I want 15 foot long boards. They are limbed and the limbs mostly chipped.

I bought both a mini mill and a Granberg Alaskan Mark III. They told me the mini mill would help me square the log without having to turn it. I read the instructions and that ain't so. I suspect I wasted my money on the mini mill.

The next step is to get that log off the ground. I'm thinking I'll cut me a 3 foot tall stump out of one of the trunks and a 2 foot stump. Then I'll use a cant hook to get the log 1 foot off the ground. Then I'll wrap a big chain around it and hook that to a 4 ton engine hoist. I'll jack the log up and slide the stumps under each end. It will be slanted down to let gravity help in the cutting.

Sound like a plan? The only reason I ask is this is my first time. I really don't know what's right

 

[smokinj]

I use a ramp and just roll it up works great with two people...The mini mill I use to make my first cut and use my 460 for that, and the big mill with the 880 works good for me but there is alot of ways to do it.

 

[RikBrooks]

but you make the first cut with the mini mill - doesn't it just cut on the sides, with the saw vertical? What do you do, cut it and roll it?

 

[smokinj]

but you make the first cut with the mini mill - doesn't it just cut on the sides, with the saw vertical? What do you do, cut it and roll it?

I cut the first cut where it lyes and then roll it up on the platform

 

[RikBrooks]

gotcha, thanks

 

[huskyhank]

Main thing is don't get hurt!
Be sure you're clear when you lift and be sure its solid once you get it up there.

 

[betterbuilt]

The engine hoist sounds like a good plan. I can't imagine it's very portable. I use a 3 ton floor jack or my tractor to lift most logs. I would pick the worst log and make any mistakes on it. I started on a clear maple log that was about 44 inches in diameter and made my first cut with no problems. then my second cut I got to the other side and I realized the mill had lifted on the other side of bar. I had a board 25 inches wide and 2-2.5inches thick. Take time to check and recheck that all the bolts are tight. You can ruin a chain in seconds. I guess the thing I learned quickly is don't be in a hurry. That's when things go wrong.

 

[mtngun]

A mini-mill can make a beam or a square post in less time than an Alaskan.

I've been making a lot of 8x8's, and the mini-mill is faster and easier providing I have a way to get the log off the ground (so the bar doesn't dig into the dirt).

If I can't get the log off the ground, the Alaskan must be used, and it takes far longer to set up the cuts.

An Alaskan is at its best slicing slabs or boards.

It is not a question of one being better than the other. They both excel at certain things.

 

[dustytools]

I make my first cut with the Alaskan to achieve the flat surface then I zip the two sides off with the mini-mill. No rolling required.

 

[smokinj]

A mini-mill can make a beam or a square post in less time than an Alaskan.

I've been making a lot of 8x8's, and the mini-mill is faster and easier providing I have a way to get the log off the ground (so the bar doesn't dig into the dirt).

If I can't get the log off the ground, the Alaskan must be used, and it takes far longer to set up the cuts.

An Alaskan is at its best slicing slabs or boards.

It is not a question of one being better than the other. They both excel at certain things.

When I was edging I just adjusted the bar so it wasnt in the dirt...Cants would be a different story though.

 

[RikBrooks]

I bought an engine hoist. I work for AutoZone and this weekend is our 31st anniversary so all employees got 30% off. I bought a brand new 4 ton engine hoist for $140.

Can't pass that up.

 

[RikBrooks]

You guys are just amazing with GREAT advice. You don't know how much you've already helped. I didn't waste my money on a mini mill after all. I'll probably be using it more than the alaskan. Most of my wood will be 2x10, 2x6, and 2x4

 

[jnl502]

if u have some larger wheels put on the legs at the open end and put a small tonge on the other u can move it around with the mower and back it up to the log and lift away
jnl

 

[BIG JAKE]

I use a hi-lift jack to lift the log high enough to get a metal sawhorse under-just one horse usually. The incline lets me mill easier using gravity. I've been squaring the logs that way by rolling with a cant hook. The horse is wide enough I can roll the log at least twice then slide it and roll for third and 4th cuts. It does take time to adjust the alaskan but sometimes you don't need to. I've been thinking of modifying the mill with all thread and cranks to adjust the height without using a wrench(see BobL's mills)-this would save a lot of time. I also have a mini mill I've not used yet. Try out some of the different methods you'll find one you like.

 

[RikBrooks]

WELL, I had a table saw accident and broke and partially severed a finger. May be a week or so before I get sterted. Stitches come outy in 2 weeks

 

[BobL]

WELL, I had a table saw accident and broke and partially severed a finger. May be a week or so before I get sterted. Stitches come outy in 2 weeks

Whoa . . . . . those things can be nasty. I have more respect for my table saw than I do for my Chainsaws when the are in a mill.

Take it easy - I wouldn't recommend messing with chainsaws for a while, why risk tearing the stitches. I hope it heals Ok and there is no nerve damage.