Flue Damper ??

[jhoff310]

Just curious how many of you guys have a flue damper on your modern EPA stoves. I have kicked around the idea of putting one in. I am just looking for some input.

My chimney is 32’ tall straight up. I have an excellent draft, I am just thinking about all the heat that is going up the chimney. When they installed my stove they said it wasn’t necessary, but optional I have double wall from the stove up and I am hitting 100 degrees or so on the outside of the double wall at the ceiling on the first floor. Will a damper decrease the temp and promote more creosote?


Thanks
Jeff

 

[pook]

http://www.gulland.ca/florida_bungalow_syndrome.htm overfiring can warp a stove & u got a tall chimni. Personally i'd put a fluegas heat extractor which is ugly,noisy, requires electric, & is controversial.u Might need a special key damper for 2wall pipe.

 

[Ambull]

I run two antique stoves into long masonry chimneys, and I would not be able to control them without the flue dampers. I almost always run them with the flue dampers completely closed. I get 12 hour burn times, no smoke issues, and plenty of heat.

 

[Marine5068]

Hey Jeff.
I have a similar set up with a long superflue chimney run of over 35 feet straight up.
It does have the flue damper in a black standard stove pipe piece that connects the stove to the stainless superflue. I have tried it open and partially close and have it set to 2/3 closed now and I've found that this setting keeps a lot of my heat from going straight up the chimney. At least it works well on mine.
I'd say install one. Once you find that optimum setting, you just leave it set there most of the time. Only time I adjust mine is if it's REALLY windy out or when the fire needs a bit of a boost starting up. Then I set it back to the mark that I've put on the pipe with my welders soapstone marker.

Good Luck.

 

[CrappieKeith]

Jeff....sounds like you need to do something.
If a double wall pipe is 100 degrees on the outside you are really running some extra heat up your flue you do no need to vent.
I'm not sure how hot it is on the inside...which would change depending on double wall insulated vs non insulated.I do know that we did some testing and with a single wall pipe using a barometric draft regulator we had a 400 degree inside flue temp with 86 degrees on the outside.

A typical flue will draft about .08" of water column. You really do not need to run a draft that fast and still make all 8000-8700 btus per lb depending on species at 20% moisture content .... of course your unit has to be designed to do just that.

Having a longer flue will also aide in increasing draft speeds up to a point.
So if you are able to add a device to slow down the draft and yet maintain hot enough flue gas temps to avoid building excessive creosote...excessive is the key word here....then you'll gain longerburn times and more control over the amount of heats being made giving you a more even heat.

I see that some may suggest a Magic Heater to extract extra btus. True it will extract heat ,however history says that most guys do not do the cleaning nessesary to operate these devices safely on a day in and day out basis. They are dangerous..potentially if they get ignored which is very easy to do.
Which can and will result in a chimney fire and potentially burn your home down.

If your manual says to add a baro or smoke flap then follow those reccomendations. Your 32 foot flue should be watched initially to determin proper settings.
Once you get a typical acceptable operation your on your way.

 

[pook]

Jeff....sounds like you need to do something.
If a double wall pipe is 100 degrees on the outside you are really running some extra heat up your flue you do no need to vent.
I'm not sure how hot it is on the inside...which would change depending on double wall insulated vs non insulated.I do know that we did some testing and with a single wall pipe using a barometric draft regulator we had a 400 degree inside flue temp with 86 degrees on the outside.

A typical flue will draft about .08" of water column. You really do not need to run a draft that fast and still make all 8000-8700 btus per lb depending on species at 20% moisture content .... of course your unit has to be designed to do just that.

Having a longer flue will also aide in increasing draft speeds up to a point.
So if you are able to add a device to slow down the draft and yet maintain hot enough flue gas temps to avoid building excessive creosote...excessive is the key word here....then you'll gain longerburn times and more control over the amount of heats being made giving you a more even heat.

I see that some may suggest a Magic Heater to extract extra btus. True it will extract heat ,however history says that most guys do not do the cleaning nessesary to operate these devices safely on a day in and day out basis. They are dangerous..potentially if they get ignored which is very easy to do.
Which can and will result in a chimney fire and potentially burn your home down.

If your manual says to add a baro or smoke flap then follow those reccomendations. Your 32 foot flue should be watched initially to determin proper settings.
Once you get a typical acceptable operation your on your way.

The yukon is an efficient burner with a fintube heat exchanger in a secondary chamber.
Epa stove is efficient burner, adding a MH as a secondary fintube heat exchanger is no different.
Both interact with the tubes & a fan to extract heat from the fluegas, both are thermostatically controlled & UL tested.
BTW cooling the fluegas not only extracts more heat but also controls the fire, like on my sawdust furnace.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Rotten information!

The Yukon is designed as an intergrated wood heating device Vs. hanging a MH on an epa wood stove with coat hangers and duct tape!

Does pook translate from French as puke? Just wondering.

opcorn:

Shari

 

[pook]

Rotten information!

The Yukon is designed as an intergrated wood heating device Vs. hanging a MH on an epa wood stove with coat hangers and duct tape!

Does pook translate from French as puke? Just wondering.

typical nonsensical, biassed response enhanced by selection of the French language,coat hanger, & duct tape. If it helps u understand, put a metal box on the EPA + MH & then think again.

 

[CTYank]

http://www.gulland.ca/florida_bungalow_syndrome.htm overfiring can warp a stove & u got a tall chimni. Personally i'd put a fluegas heat extractor which is ugly,noisy, requires electric, & is controversial.u Might need a special key damper for 2wall pipe.

I give. What's a "chimni"? Not in Funk & Wagnalls.

If you mean "chimney" may I suggest that we confine ourselves to the "Queen's English"?

 

[pook]

I give. What's a "chimni"? Not in Funk & Wagnalls.

If you mean "chimney" may I suggest that we confine ourselves to the "Queen's English"?

LOL! real masons called them chimli & noone argued

 

[CrappieKeith]

The yukon is an efficient burner with a fintube heat exchanger in a secondary chamber.
Epa stove is efficient burner, adding a MH as a secondary fintube heat exchanger is no different.
Both interact with the tubes & a fan to extract heat from the fluegas, both are thermostatically controlled & UL tested.
BTW cooling the fluegas not only extracts more heat but also controls the fire, like on my sawdust furnace.

Where do I start??????
Naw not worth it....
Yukon furnaces...UL#MH11057
MH....what's that file #...can't find it because it's not UL listed.
I burned some of my day to see what was what Pook and the company that makes them does not have it listed...Iwas tryingto give you the benefit ,but as per normal your misguided.
:notrolls2::notrolls2::notrolls2:

 

[pook]

Where do I start??????
Naw not worth it....
Yukon furnaces...UL#MH11057
MH....what's that file #...can't find it because it's not UL listed.
I burned some of my day to see what was what Pook and the company that makes them does not have it listed...Iwas tryingto give you the benefit ,but as per normal your misguided.
:notrolls2::notrolls2::notrolls2:

cant find what u dont wanna find+ dont understand what u dont wanna understand= another mechanically baseless argument. Magically, the secondary chamber fintube heat exchanger works differently in a yukon than a MH! & I'm close minded?

 

[CrappieKeith]

cant find what u dont wanna find+ dont understand what u dont wanna understand= another mechanically baseless argument. Magically, the secondary chamber fintube heat exchanger works differently in a yukon than a MH! & I'm close minded?

What..I looked up the manufacturer Pook.If a product is UL isted then it has a file number issued by UL. The product must then have quarterly listing visits by UL to maintain that listing.
We do that.We have a file # as all current UL products have.
The UL website does not have a file for the Magic Heater.Like that's my fault.Just looking for the safety aspect which is not there Pook.

You are also misisng a big point here Pook....in all the postings you have ever made there's nary a one where someone actually agreed with you.
Your not an engineer yet you try to come off as one.
Your just some misguide ole timer looking for arguements.
You pook your nose into topics and insert your crap where that's not even the topic.
You have targeted Yukons and me personally for what ever the reason.

You won't even respond to my questions.
You ignor what you want and then toss blame....
:notrolls2::notrolls2::notrolls2:

Until you can admit what is what you'll never achieve what you are trying too.
:notrolls2::notrolls2::notrolls2:

 

[pook]

What..I looked up the manufacturer Pook.If a product is UL isted then it has a file number issued by UL. The product must then have quarterly listing visits by UL to maintain that listing.
We do that.We have a file # as all current UL products have.
The UL website does not have a file for the Magic Heater.Like that's my fault.Just looking for the safety aspect which is not there Pook.

You are also misisng a big point here Pook....in all the postings you have ever made there's nary a one where someone actually agreed with you.
Your not an engineer yet you try to come off as one.
Your just some misguide ole timer looking for arguements.
You pook your nose into topics and insert your crap where that's not even the topic.
You have targeted Yukons and me personally for what ever the reason.

You won't even respond to my questions.
You ignor what you want and then toss blame....
:notrolls2::notrolls2::notrolls2:

Until you can admit what is what you'll never achieve what you are trying too.
:notrolls2::notrolls2::notrolls2:

http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/cgifind.new/LISEXT/1FRAME/srchres.html rad page where it says all products arent listed online. MH UL # is HR915U............ironically, the yukon UL # starts with MH :newbie:
oops ul#= MH-6-R file # is MP3282 http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/...n=versionless&parent_id=1073989914&sequence=1

 

[CrappieKeith]

http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/cgifind.new/LISEXT/1FRAME/srchres.html rad page where it says all products arent listed online. MH UL # is HR915U............ironically, the yukon UL # starts with MH :newbie:
oops ul#= MH-6-R file # is MP3282 http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/...n=versionless&parent_id=1073989914&sequence=1

not current...Last Updated on 2007-08-03

 

[pook]

not current...Last Updated on 2007-08-03

product hasnt changed, duh, as well as physics hasnt changed,duh.

 

[Mike PA]

Does this heat exchanger have tubes or fins in it that are in contact with the exhaust gas? If so, this is bad idea, as this heat exchanger would need constant cleaning or risk build-up as a result of temperature drop.

 

[CrappieKeith]

product hasnt changed, duh, as well as physics hasnt changed,duh.

UL's job is to maintain the listings to ensure the product is made just like it was when it was originally listed and tested.
Show's us all again how much you do not know and how ignorant you are to what UL even does and how it all effect us.....but you know it all Pook.

:deadhorse::deadhorse::deadhorse::deadhorse:

 

[pook]

Does this heat exchanger have tubes or fins in it that are in contact with the exhaust gas? If so, this is bad idea, as this heat exchanger would need constant cleaning or risk build-up as a result of temperature drop.

http://www.yukon-eagle.com/FURNACES/EAGLEIVKLONDIKE/SECONDARYHEATEXCHANGER/tabid/158/Default.aspx
exhaust gas in pipe is cooled to gain heat otherwize lost up the chimni= same function as MH

 

[Mike PA]

I did not ask about the Yukon furnace. I asked about the Magic Heat. I was trying to learn how the Magic Heat works, I know how a Yukon works.