Frameing walls with greem lumber

[mt.stalker]

I've read that some people use freshly milled 2x4's for frameing up walls in their houses , with cross braceing to prevent warping and twisting as the wood dries .
If a man were to do this with pine or poplar 2x4's , how many / how far apart are the cross braces placed ?
Any experiances or suggestions for this ?

Thanks

 

[scor440]

Once the sheeting and trusses or rafters are up and the roof on it aint gonna move much.Have to work quick though.

 

[les-or-more]

I've read that some people use freshly milled 2x4's for frameing up walls in their houses , with cross braceing to prevent warping and twisting as the wood dries .
If a man were to do this with pine or poplar 2x4's , how many / how far apart are the cross braces placed ?
Any experiances or suggestions for this ?

Thanks

My uncles barn next door was struck by lightning in aug of 1964 and burned, a new barn was sawed, built and refilled with hay in sept. The nails are still being driven back in today after the pine shrank. My advice would be to let the lumber dry first.

 

[scor440]

Use deck screws.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I've used lumber right off my mill many times, lelling it dry in place and i don't cross brace. With 2x4's, i've never had any problems with nails or anything else but i wouldn't close the walls up for a few weeks, letting the moisture get out before you insulate.

Many guys put the lumber on stickers for 30 days or so, and then build with it. Some even saw the lumber a little over size, sticker it 30 days or so, and then throw it back on the mill and resaw it to size. You can throw on a lot of 2x4's at a time when you "even them up"...

If i was doing it today, i wouldn't build a house out of 2x4's, it would be 2x6's. If it was a cabin, 2x4's would be fine, and i wouldn't have a problem with building right off the mill, sheeting the outside and leaveing the inside open to let the lumber dry in place. (open windows/doors)

SR