friction hitch help

[blue]

i finally got round to buying some 10mm rope so ican try out some of the advanced hitches but after spending nearly 3 hours searching AS and the interturd i can't findanything with step by step instructions and pic's on tying these knots.i don't want to second guess tying one from a pic of just a finnished knot as it could be a little painful if i get it wrong.

please help with some links.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Try this:

Friction Hitches

 

[Ax-man]

I doubt you will step by step pics of knot tying.

I not sure what your calling an advanced hitch, but any hitch can be tied to your rope and simulated the way it would work up in the tree by simply using your hands to advance the hitch and pull it back to see if it will grab. If you do this and the knot doesn't come apart or unravel and still looks the same as it does in the picture, you are most likely tieing it right.

I don't what method you use to enter a tree, I use the single line footlock method many times, this gives me an opportunity to watch the hitch in action to see if it is going to perform. After taking a few locks up the rope I'll give the hitch a slight work out to see if will grab and release on que.

Up in the tree is a little different story as sometimes your weight is more on the limb your walking and not on the rope, you want to make sure the hitch grabs should you take a slip or fall.

As has been said before, practice low and slow, if your not comfortable using a new hitch, then it best not to use it till you are 100% sure it is the the best hitch for your particular climbing system.

Larry

 

[blue]

rich,tried your link but could only find pics of finnished knots.i would like step by step for my own saftey.
thanx for tryin though

 

[wiley_p]

Get on the ISA website and they should have several good prusik variations. there was an excellent article about 3 years ago on the "french" prusik.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Which Knots?

What are you familiar with?

Can you see a 2 down, 2 up clove hitch in a tautline?

From there a 1 down, 3 or 4 up clove, grabbing both ends of line would be a distel; like this:

This i think would be the (or one of the) best 'change over' knots to a smaller chord, using both ends (instead of 1) of the friction tail to connect to saddle.

8mm Sta-Set dbl.braid seems to be popular/Brian's suggestion; good grip from size differance compared to host / lifeline, flexible enough to seat tightly, low stretch, strong.

The eyes are usually barrels, that are old'reliable anchor knots tied back to the line itself to form an eye. An anchor knot is just a dependable round turn, sitting on it's own tail; as like a constrictor knot is a clove trapping it's own tail (making a constrictor a clove that doesn't need a backup, as it forms it's own).

Though i speak of 3 top coils, present this old animation; the prop3er form to learn and start all of the newer breed friction hitches from is a top mantle piece made of a 4 coil Frenchy. From that base, positive grip formation, come most of the new knots you will see spoken here. The basic, positive grip module (4coil frenchy) needs tamed by a preceding grip to break the load going to the Frenchy, so that the Frenchy will grip and not sieze. If you look closely you will see this pattern in even the Blake's, as it just uses a single leg of connection , sits on its own tail(more reliable not to walk out, but book says back it up!); that also functions to disturb the 2 bottom coils and not allow the sever clamping down/seizing of just a Frenchy, tightened from both ends; IMLHO.

Orrrrrrrrr something like that.....
:alien:

 

[ROLLACOSTA]

i only know one friction hitch and only want to know one..THE OLD PRUSSIK LOOP ..why change something soooooo gooooodddd.........................!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[blue]

tree spyder,

taht was excellent exactly what i needed to see and your accompanying text was very informative and spot on.do you have any more please

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Well, after disk crash some MIA's; any specific question/focal/direction?

 

[rahtreelimbs]

This might be what you need.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Here is one covering the Distel, Schwab, Knut and a not quite as good description for VT as Rich's.

This diagram accentuates the 'Frenchy Base' idea; with this stuff here; you should be able to go back to Rich's link to X-Man's site and be more familiar with making all of the hitches. Especially after looking at them as a Short French Prusik; + some other strategy, that the force of weight has to go through first, before hitting the French Prusik Coils. These small variations, making up the differances in mechanichs and names i think.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Originally posted by RockyJSquirrel
Nice illustration, Rich. Is that out of T.C.C.? I disagree with the author's opinion that the manner of the crossings doesn't make much difference. If the braids are done as suggested the climber will have a lot of line twist on his lifeline. Starting at step 3, pass the lower leg OVER the upper leg and continue to wrap the lower leg over the upper leg for succeeding braids. This will greatly reduce twist in your lifeline.

Yeah Brian that is from T.C.C. I have been tying the VT exactly as shown in that pic. I will have to try your method. Thanks for the heads up!

 

[rumination]

Rocky, I am just starting to switch over from the distel to the vt, and that anti-hockling tip right there is great. I remember you saying something about it before but couldn't find it. Can't wait to try it on a long descent. Thanks.

 

[okietreedude1]

Ole Rockys right again!!!

I had the rope hockles from a vt BAD until he posted his suggestion on solving the problem. i tried the solution and

BOOM!!!

hockle days are over!

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i was going to suggest Big John's Friction Hitches Thread as the next evolution in learning; that i think pictures something similar to what Rocky's idea was, that i have used too; at his suggestion.