newb
ArboristSite Operative
What is the procedure for pruning an apple tree, and when is the time to do it.
Fruit tree pruning
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John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Depends on what your purpose is. If you are going for a vase, or semi vase orchard style, then the major limbs for scaffold get done in the winter with sprout thinning in summer. This is what I got from Bartz Orchards in the Metro are.
As an aside, they say they get better sprout angles off of stubs, if trying to start new scaffold limbs, then with collar cuts.
Spring is the worst time due to fire blight (FB) activity.
I think it is when temps get over 55 is when the pathogen gets active. Can't remember the upper limit, but dry days are best.
If doing a thin on a landscape apple, then anytime that FB is not a concern will do. On the heavily over grown ones where extensive thinning of large vertical sprout limbs is needed, I try to sell it for ann annual cycle for 3-4 years so the tree does not get too stressed. Evenly thin sprouts and tips by ~ 10 -15% each year, w/o hitting any limb to hard. Leave smaller sprouts around new wounds to try to supress new sprout growth, vs stimulating it by stripping everything off.
As an aside, they say they get better sprout angles off of stubs, if trying to start new scaffold limbs, then with collar cuts.
Spring is the worst time due to fire blight (FB) activity.
I think it is when temps get over 55 is when the pathogen gets active. Can't remember the upper limit, but dry days are best.
If doing a thin on a landscape apple, then anytime that FB is not a concern will do. On the heavily over grown ones where extensive thinning of large vertical sprout limbs is needed, I try to sell it for ann annual cycle for 3-4 years so the tree does not get too stressed. Evenly thin sprouts and tips by ~ 10 -15% each year, w/o hitting any limb to hard. Leave smaller sprouts around new wounds to try to supress new sprout growth, vs stimulating it by stripping everything off.
rebelman
ArboristSite Operative
Look for crossing and interfering branches. Remove most. Most cuts should be made back to the collar. It's very much like shade tree pruning. You may tip some back to good laterals anticipating fruit weight. Dead winter is best I believe. Unfortunately mowing, lack of mulch on the root zone, and erroneous, predetermined ideas by many tree owners complicate pruning decisions.
Soul Assassin
ArboristSite Member
I have a bunch of customers request this, mostly flowering crabs, here in Colorado......tough on trees.
What I do is remove sucker growth from the main trunk and limbs. and pole prune the top to bring it under control, and make it look more rounded....I have seen them years later, and it is very aestetically pleasing.
I never pollard, only make cuts that are to the Shigo standard. If you do it right, it looks killer.
I do it during the busy season, never had a problem with these types of trees. In the Eastern Forest, could be a whole other story. I'm at 6,500 feet, so it's a whole different set of rules.
Good luck.
What I do is remove sucker growth from the main trunk and limbs. and pole prune the top to bring it under control, and make it look more rounded....I have seen them years later, and it is very aestetically pleasing.
I never pollard, only make cuts that are to the Shigo standard. If you do it right, it looks killer.
I do it during the busy season, never had a problem with these types of trees. In the Eastern Forest, could be a whole other story. I'm at 6,500 feet, so it's a whole different set of rules.
Good luck.
M.D. Vaden
vadenphotography.com
I prefer a narrow pyramidal form.
Pyramidal, is an optimum shape of apple trees, for light and strength.
My pyramidal shapes are taller and narrower than most - 14' tall, and pruned to 3 to 4 feet wide at the bottom, gradually narrowing toward the tip.
Watersprouts can be made into spurs for fruit rather than cutting them all off. I'd turned a water sprout into fruit bearing wood in as little as 2 years - 3 to 4 years is common too.
Pyramidal, is an optimum shape of apple trees, for light and strength.
My pyramidal shapes are taller and narrower than most - 14' tall, and pruned to 3 to 4 feet wide at the bottom, gradually narrowing toward the tip.
Watersprouts can be made into spurs for fruit rather than cutting them all off. I'd turned a water sprout into fruit bearing wood in as little as 2 years - 3 to 4 years is common too.
Soul Assassin
ArboristSite Member
Yeah, there are very few "apple" trees like the East or west, here...it's ornamental.....not for producing fruit....in short, the climate up here is so dry and harsh...we ain't got any apple orchards.lol.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
I don't think so, we've had very few days over 55 yet. I did some reading in FB last night and this AM. It seems that the phenology for shoot infection is ~100DD 55-60*F
Do it soon we are warming up and rain spalsh and wind can be vectors.
Use good sanitaion, though I've read that some studies have ruled out tool transfer, out hands can be a vector! The latter was shown in orchard pinch pruning in CA.
Dry weather is the best time, since the inocculum is active with humidity. Oh well, rain for the next 4 days.
The white coats are still working on the pathology of FB and controls, so this will still b an ongoing thing.
I pulled the forecast for Mineral Point looks like temps may be marginal soon. I would put work off till summer is it is not done soon.
Lastly, wait for new buds to set and succulent growth to harden. These soft tissues are most suseptable to infection.
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