Fuel line connectors / gas tank pass through - tips/tricks or ... trash it?

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glenintenn

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a lot of cheaper saws have these fuel line connectors in the gas tank where the fuel line passes though the tank to the carburetor compartment. Megapain to try and get the thing to push back through that pass through hole with fuel line attached.

Any tricks anyone has found to getting these shoved up into the passthrough with fuel line attached or do you just bypass them and put a solid piece of line from the carb into the fuel tank (typically these connectors split the feed line and the fuel filter is in the gas tank connected to the other side of this connector - often times the in-tank line is rubber and the top side to the carb is tygon).

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yeah. this happened to be a Ryobi but noted that Homelite(plastic job, not the vintage ones) both have one of those small connectors in the gas tank. the Ryobi doesn't leak around the hole with the line just jammed through. The homelite does. I guess one could just stick the connector on the outside (there's room in both cases) to get the good seal without going nuts trying to get a pair of needlenose to jamb the connector+fuel line from the in-tank side.
 
Use soap or grease. The nipple keeps the line from shrinking causing leaks at the insert rubber. Stihl made the line one peice to avoid this and make the part a one of a kind. I prefer the 660 two piece line myself. Milling is hard on things and they don't leak with this setup. All the smaller saws leak over time when the neck ring shrinks.
 
Stihl made the line one peice to avoid this and make the part a one of a kind.
I have an MS180C. A couple of weeks ago i was suspicious that that proprietary fuel line had a pinhole leak in it. I didn't have any spares and the first couple of shops I called were out (not to mention the banker's hours they keep means you just about have to take vacation time off to get to their location). I was on the verge of cutting the Stihl fuel line back to half inch on either side and running some tygon through it to just use what was left of the stihl piece as a grommet for the fuel tank. Fortunately, I took the carb apart a 2nd time and doing a 100% tear down, clean, re-assemble ( instead of just cursory cleaning ) sorted things out.
 
I have an MS180C. A couple of weeks ago i was suspicious that that proprietary fuel line had a pinhole leak in it. I didn't have any spares and the first couple of shops I called were out (not to mention the banker's hours they keep means you just about have to take vacation time off to get to their location). I was on the verge of cutting the Stihl fuel line back to half inch on either side and running some tygon through it to just use what was left of the stihl piece as a grommet for the fuel tank. Fortunately, I took the carb apart a 2nd time and doing a 100% tear down, clean, re-assemble ( instead of just cursory cleaning ) sorted things out.
Let me get pic of my 200T coming off the truck today that failed last month.

The early 020T and 200T had a small tank hole and a smaller line collar built in. Switching to a 025/250 fuel line is pita to install but it will never leak again. Some use 026/260 lines. Many drill the tank and use the newer 200T line, I don't. Packaging become the issues in Stihl or Husky carb boxes. If you have room to run a two peice line setup you can use any line or grommets to make the thing right. Homelite did this for decades.
I'm switching over two of my mix and match custom builds with 660 two peice fuel line setups made from Echo or Stihl universal fuel hose. Impulse line is different and is thicker. Messing with those you better get it right. I have the cure for that also.

Quality rubber is the only thing that last on two peice fuel lines.
 
Impulse line is different and is thicker. Messing with those you better get it right. I have the cure for that also.

I wondered about restricted fuel flow. The MS180c has no H/L jets to adjust so it's super sensitive to crap in the carb (not that you can adjust around crap in the carb with H/L jets ... just bought a 5yo one for $60 and the entire issue was the screen in the carb had not been thoroughly cleaned) It's just that that hypersensitivity made me wonder if it would even function with any slightly different-than-specs dynamics in fuel flow...

what is your fix?
 
I wondered about restricted fuel flow. The MS180c has no H/L jets to adjust so it's super sensitive to crap in the carb (not that you can adjust around crap in the carb with H/L jets ... just bought a 5yo one for $60 and the entire issue was the screen in the carb had not been thoroughly cleaned) It's just that that hypersensitivity made me wonder if it would even function with any slightly different-than-specs dynamics in fuel flow... from Stihl's perspective, the sooner you and I throw away our old Stihl and buy one (or ten) of their GretaThunberg battery saws the better.

what is your fix?
The broken line fix is just temporary to be back in service immediately.

Your 180 saw needs an 025-250 carb and forget about that tiny Lil junk 017-180 carbs. Go bigger and adjustable. Cut that stupid exit hole out on the muffler and move on. Put the finned deflector back on and open the holes with a flat blade some more.

The long term change of fuel hoses/lines involves different fuel filter or filters and the two line segments. Echos stuff works good also. Three peice lines aka: grommets in the tank hole, tend to leak from adding more parts and more joints to the system. This is another reason Stihl switched to all one peice priority type fuel line. One part to replace at a service interval not three things to possibly leak next time out.
Nothing last forever yet some parts well cared for seem like they do in a regular users world.
Commercial use demands things be the best they can be for a needed service period. Stihl builds around this concept to have the most durable machines you can buy for commercial use. Parts pricing is a drop in the bucket when you consider downtime and crews standing around. Their is a method to the madness many just don't see. Use a saw for eight or ten hours for a two day period and see what you think of cheap tools after that.

I service all my own stuff so deciding on what and how is up to me. 99% of everything that normally leaves a commercial shop big or small will be wearing OEM or equivalent parts and maybe 1% have an aftermarket cylinder to live out the rest of that season. Anything beyond that is a bonus. If you're wanting dependability you buy new equipment when your stuff starts failing or have it serviced more often to avoid downtime.

180 last me one season on a tree work truck just trimming limbs. The rebuilt saw with a Meteor piston kit and parts last about the same next year out. Carbs get updated to 250s immediately. Filters are bought in stacks aftermarket and run two in there not one. It's just a felt pad. This is why they die in one year, injesting fines. You only wear out about two or three bars and that tool is done for. 250s surprisingly last longer with slightly better filters and the saw is just a better AV system and scaled up from a 017-180 model. Same stuff on the chassis and same clamshell engines just bigger. 210 is the jump up in size.

You can use any line configuration on these little saw without worry on volume delivery to the carb. You need 90plus cc engines to worry about 3mm feed lines. Even those ported get plenty of feed with stock lines and fuel filters. Better filters are always an improvement or good updates. Use orange OEM Stihl or Husky big fuel filters like the 3120 and bigger saws take. Most have an inlet size to match the fuel line inner diameter or ID. 3 to 4mm is quite common. 2mm would probably feed an 80cc power head. That keeps the fines out of the carb screen longer.
 
The beast on a stock fuel system.
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K.I.S.S.
The kids that play nice in the toolbox. The 441 is in place of the 066 out to be serviced.
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You might not recognize them all but many will. One is a freak I built.

This is the 200T fuel line failure onsite. Vinyl or tygon makes it happen. Besides that I won't use that line on anything anymore.
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Highly not recommended 😕 but it works in a pinch.
 
OEM is usually the best route to take IMHO. I have a few spools of tygon but try to avoid it unless its an older saw that has no other options.
 
I use oem Echo fuel line for generic fuel lines in Huskies, etc and clear for the return line from a primer bulb is so equipped. Outside of that, I'll use the Mac fuel line trick I learned for the 10-series saws or oem fuel lines only. Why gamble on a $5 chinese fuel line when I can get a $10-15 fuel line I'll never have to worry about.
 
I use oem Echo fuel line for generic fuel lines in Huskies, etc and clear for the return line from a primer bulb is so equipped. Outside of that, I'll use the Mac fuel line trick I learned for the 10-series saws or oem fuel lines only. Why gamble on a $5 chinese fuel line when I can get a $10-15 fuel line I'll never have to worry about.
care to share the mac 10-10 trick
 
care to share the mac 10-10 trick

I have located some suitable grommets and what I believe is the same stuff as the "Echo" fuel line, Buna N liner and PVC sheath.

View attachment 878343

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It does seem to resist kinking better than Tygon and should make the corner to the nipple on the carburetor without any problems.

View attachment 878346

Seems like I should be set for a while.

View attachment 878347

Mark
 
Grommets

https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-16-Rubbe...var=554127157125&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
I will have to do some searching in my files to see where the fuel line came from. The first piece came from member that is no longer active (Sierra Mountains) and was described as Echo fuel line, I just tried to match that product.

Mark
I did finally track down the fuel line, nichecycle.com, pn 14-03823.

1M length for $3.55 + shipping.

Buna N liner and PVC sheath.

Mark
 
I dealt with a pile of saws, weed eaters and blowers that use those in line barbs with multiple tygon hose sizes , I hate tygon because it fails every couple years. I got pissed and ordered both sizes of echo hose, stihl fuel hose and three sizes of the stens tru blue silicone fuel hose in the bulk rolls. Now I just match the fuel hose id to the carb/primer bulb barbs then drill the tank hole out (if necessary) for a friction fit so it seals tightly. The best filter with a small barb is the large husky stone style, for small narrow tanks I'll use a stens version I found that I like with a weighted base, felted exterior filter over stone filter thats plastic body encased so it filters excellent and travels in the tank with the fuel even with the heavier hose. The echo ones work well but the metal weight is exposed in the fuel and it often corrodes.
Sometimes you need to alter things to use the best part that will not leave you screwed 2 years later in a jam. For example the ms 170-180, and poulans/homlites/craftsmman/huskys with fiber filters that fit so poorly and poorly filter anyway get swapped to a oiled foam filter like this thats cut/made to fit that will stop dust/smoke and not leak around the edges.
https://www.amazon.com/Uni-Filter-6...&sprefix=bulk+foam+air+filter+,aps,448&sr=8-2
 
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