Full Comp or Skip Chain on 36" Bar on Husky 592XP

[Jonny Quest]

I just scored a very nice deal on a 36" Oregon Power Match bar that I will occasionally use on my Hoosky 592XP. $60. New. Now I need to order a chain or 2 from Baileys, so I'm wondering about full comp or skip. Cutting will be at 6,000+ feet elevation -- all in conifers. I realize that sharpening will a bit more time-consuming with full comp, but I'm mostly concerned with saw performance out in the woods. Any feedback from users of 90+ cc saws and bigger bars?

JQ

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Either. Skip is a lot easier/quicker to sharpen but the saw will pull either just fine

I run skip on anything over 28" regardless of saw cuz I hate sharpening so many cutters

 

[huskihl]

Buried in fir you’ll be better off with skip

 

[sean donato]

Both, usually run full comp, like having skip on hand for the mill, occasionally run it in softer woods, but that's rare around here.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Skip. Unrelated pic but thought I’d throw it in for the giggs.

 

[thomasinvancouver]

Skip for my 36 on the 592. I hand file a full comp is a lot of cutters.

 

[HumBurner]

I just scored a very nice deal on a 36" Oregon Power Match bar that I will occasionally use on my Hoosky 592XP. $60. New. Now I need to order a chain or 2 from Baileys, so I'm wondering about full comp or skip. Cutting will be at 6,000+ feet elevation -- all in conifers. I realize that sharpening will a bit more time-consuming with full comp, but I'm mostly concerned with saw performance out in the woods. Any feedback from users of 90+ cc saws and bigger bars?

JQ

IF you run full comp, be prepared to clear the kerf more frequently. When I ran 32" full comp chain (just one chain that came with the bar), the saw would stall every now and again from chip buildup in the kerf. Takes a few more clears compared to skip.

 

[Squareground3691]

32” Stihl 46RSLF ,

 

[altatim]

IF you run full comp, be prepared to clear the kerf more frequently. When I ran 32" full comp chain (just one chain that came with the bar), the saw would stall every now and again from chip buildup in the kerf. Takes a few more clears compared to skip.

Agreed here, I run full comp on a 32" and it works great for ground bucking but don't touch a rock lol. Definitely can get chip build up, just bucked a 28" pin yesterday and it required a bit of finesse to keep it from stalling out, but you get used to it. Mine's also only on a 462 so it doesn't have the torque of a 90cc saw either.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Skip. Unrelated pic but thought I’d throw it in for the giggs.
View attachment 1196820

Looks like a 100% skip chain on that Husky. Bet it cuts like a light sabre.

 

[sean donato]

36" 390xp full comp. Had to sharpen once today, took all of 5 minutes. No kerf clearing issues in the walnut or locust. I'd wager if my 390xp can handle full come there's zero real reason a 592xp should have issues....

 

[LuDookie]

I run a 32, 36, and a 42” on my 395, and always use skip because I prefer it. Even on my 70cc saws with 24’s, I run skip. I’m sure they’ll all handle full comp but I have just preferred skip. But I’m cutting live oak, pecan, walnut, and lots of swamp oak and hackberry, which can be like green Cottonwood sometimes, pretty gummy.

 

[HumBurner]

I run a 32, 36, and a 42” on my 395, and always use skip because I prefer it. Even on my 70cc saws with 24’s, I run skip. I’m sure they’ll all handle full comp but I have just preferred skip. But I’m cutting live oak, pecan, walnut, and lots of swamp oak and hackberry, which can be like green Cottonwood sometimes, pretty gummy.

I dunno bout where you are, but live oak is the most-dense "tree-wood" we have around here.

 

[daniel chode rider]

Full skips gonna do you better.

Or, you could go with the oft-ignored semi skip....

 

[LuDookie]

I dunno bout where you are, but live oak is the most-dense "tree-wood" we have around here.

Absolutely! And if you find one that died 30 years ago when the sap was up, some of the absolute best fire, and cooking wood on the planet. But if you aren’t up on your sharpening game, you aren’t going to want to even attempt cutting it. And I’ve also had the pleasure of watching someone think they were going to split a normal size round with a maul. I’ve seen 34 ton splitters not be able to push through certain rounds. Whole different ball game coming from cutting conifers. I love it though. It makes cutting wood around here a bit more of a specialized skill.

 

[HumBurner]

Absolutely! And if you find one that died 30 years ago when the sap was up, some of the absolute best fire, and cooking wood on the planet. But if you aren’t up on your sharpening game, you aren’t going to want to even attempt cutting it. And I’ve also had the pleasure of watching someone think they were going to split a normal size round with a maul. I’ve seen 34 ton splitters not be able to push through certain rounds. Whole different ball game coming from cutting conifers. I love it though. It makes cutting wood around here a bit more of a specialized skill.

Live oak is about the only thing I don't split by hand. I had to split some pecan (planted, no idea the var.) once and it was close to live oak but stringier.

I'll split seasoned madrone and oak, fresh-cut green oak/fir, etc. but live oak is almost pointless by hand.

 

[thompsoncustom]

I wouldn't think the 592xp would have any problems running full comp or skip with a 36in bar. Why do some prefer skip? Just better is some kinds of wood? I've only ever ran full comp on everything.

Live oak is about the only thing I don't split by hand. I had to split some pecan (planted, no idea the var.) once and it was close to live oak but stringier.

I'll split seasoned madrone and oak, fresh-cut green oak/fir, etc. but live oak is almost pointless by hand.

I will no longer split Elm by hand.....devil wood.

 

[daniel chode rider]

Cuz when you're at a jobsite and the stick you're trying to fall is full of metal it's a lot less cutters to sharpen

 

[huskihl]

I wouldn't think the 592xp would have any problems running full comp or skip with a 36in bar. Why do some prefer skip? Just better is some kinds of wood? I've only ever ran full comp on everything.


I will no longer split Elm by hand.....devil wood.

Many think that because that’s all the PNW loggers use that it is just automatically faster in everything. Magical chain. In reality, the wood they cut in the Pacific Northwest is usually so soft and cuts so easily that standard chain would fill up with chips before they could finish a cut in larger wood. Skip chain offers some extra room for chips, and it also makes 1/3 fewer chips. Full comp will always cut faster if the saw has the stones to pull it and if the size of the log isn’t so big that the chips can get ejected before they slow down the cutting process

 

[LuDookie]

Live oak is about the only thing I don't split by hand. I had to split some pecan (planted, no idea the var.) once and it was close to live oak but stringier.

I'll split seasoned madrone and oak, fresh-cut green oak/fir, etc. but live oak is almost pointless by hand.

I hear you on pecan. I won’t mess with it either. I cut it with a saw constantly and have a few people that want it for cooking, but I let them split it. Nothing where I live worth burning is easy to split except for Ash, but those are actually free and far between. As far as skip, I just feel like between less cutters allowing more chain speed, and clearance, I cut better and faster with it regardless of the saw. There’s also the sharpening element, and that counts for something. I’m just a convert.