this my way , it may not be right but it works for me,
first i would not use a 3 or 2 jaw puller ,seen to many cranks with the end bent and the flywheel messed up , just ask Chris on this , he will tell you
on 3120'2 or any husky that i can take the starting dogs out, i do then bolt a flat puller to the flywheel that i made and i want the puller to be tight against the flywheel then just tighten up the puller's bolt against the crank and it comes off quite easy cause the puller is tight to the flywheel and the shock when tightening has no where else to go but to the crank, i find the pullers with longer bolts that sit away from the crank take alot more pressure because of the flexing to pop the flywheel
on the stihl's that i have worked on , the flywheel is threaded for the puller and they come off easy with it as well, now i bought a stihl puller but most guys could build one easy, got it real cheap
hitting the end of the crank ,if you are real good or lucky you can get away with this but most times what happens is it throws the crank out of line , the crank flexes at the connecting rod pin and now your crank is .003 to.005 out of round, this is easy to fix but it takes a bit of time cause you will need to take the jug off and straighten your crank