Getting deep grooves in slabs

[ADK_XJ]

Hey all, it's my first time chainsaw milling with a Granberg setup and, before I buy a high power saw, I figured I'd give it a shot with a small(ish) cherry log with my old Stihl 041.

Well, I can tell I will want a bigger saw as it very slow going and I blew a tank of gas on two cuts. However, my bigger issue is that I'm getting deep grooves across the length of the slab which indicates to me I'm not getting a consistent cut.

Aside from being my first time, I'm wondering if a factor could be the chain I'm using? I got a 2 pack of Forester "ripping" chains but they look to me like regular cross cut chains with a 10° angle.

The other thing is that the chain became somewhat loose fairly early into the cut...not like flapping in the wind but visibly not tight. The tightener was covered by the bar clamp and so I did not adjust mid cut.

I used 2x4s screwed into the top of the log to setup my first cut, which worked OK but probably could have been done better using slab brackets.

Anyway, any and all suggestions welcome.

 

[Leeroy]

2x6 or 8 will be better. How much wear on your bar rails? It's my belief that a worn bar does not apply well with milling.

 

[ADK_XJ]

2x6 or 8 will be better. How much wear on your bar rails? It's my belief that a worn bar does not apply well with milling.

Thanks for your reply, what would the benefit be of the wider boards? Just more stability?

It's a 20" Forester bar that I've had for some time but use very little since getting an 18" ms271

 

[motorhead99999]

I usually make my own ripping chains out of cross cut chain by sharpening them at 10 degrees. Never had a problem with bad groves. Are u rocking the saw back and forth? I try to keep a slow steady pace with the saw at a slight angle to the log if possible. But moving straight down the log and not stopping if you can help it makes a big difference I have found bit I’m no expert in milling. I just use the slabs mainly hemlock or pine for my tree stands or ground blinds.

 

[ADK_XJ]

I usually make my own ripping chains out of cross cut chain by sharpening them at 10 degrees. Never had a problem with bad groves. Are u rocking the saw back and forth? I try to keep a slow steady pace with the saw at a slight angle to the log if possible. But moving straight down the log and not stopping if you can help it makes a big difference I have found bit I’m no expert in milling. I just use the slabs mainly hemlock or pine for my tree stands or ground blinds.

Thanks, I think there's a distinct possibility I was rocking a bit through the cut. It's a good suggestion to go in at an angle, I think I could have also benefited from getting the log further up off the ground.

 

[ADK_XJ]

This is how I had it setup for the second cut, but you can see some of the grooves across the first cut.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Is something missing on your mill? Shouldn't it be bolted to the end of the bar with a guard around it? Why the Plexiglas cover?

 

[ADK_XJ]

Is something missing on your mill? Shouldn't it be bolted to the end of the bar with a guard around it? Why the Plexiglas cover?

It's the "Small Log" version (20" width and under)...this is how it's pictured in the instructions.

 

[motorhead99999]

Another thing that helps is setting the log up on a gentle hill and start on the end that’s uphill. Gravity helps pull the saw through so you don’t get tired pushing on it

 

[Leeroy]

Thanks for your reply, what would the benefit be of the wider boards? Just more stability?

It's a 20" Forester bar that I've had for some time but use very little since getting an 18" ms271

I would think it would be hard not to rock the mill horizontally on only 4".
But I also recall my first lumber being similar. You'll likely find filing angles that work good too.

 

[ADK_XJ]

I would think it would be hard not to rock the mill horizontally on only 4".
But I also recall my first lumber being similar. You'll likely find filing angles that work good too.

Ok, thanks - yeah, just my first time but I was definitely getting some side to side play. I think the loose chain wasn't helping me either.

 

[Stonesforbrains]

I have the same small log version and I bought the Granburg ripping chains. I have had better results with a 2x6 than a pair of 2x4 rails. Set it up to where you are milling downhill. Even steady pressure and let the saw work without forcing it and you should get pretty even results. First couple cuts I made with mine I wound up with all kinds of uneven grooves and snips and such. I was rocking it back and forth and pushing to hard and everything else wrong. I wasn’t patient enough. It takes a bit to figure out what works good, trial and error. I’m still not very consistent but have been slowly get better results. Read the milling 101 thread, tons of info there.

 

[Marshy]

This is how I had it setup for the second cut, but you can see some of the grooves across the first cut.

Looks like you are sea-sawing through the log.

 

[BlackCoffin]

I’ve had that once and I thought the saw I bought cane with .050” chain in a .063” grooved bar. Either that or it got really loose in the cut. Either way I quit that noise! So far I haven’t had that experience yet again.

 

[andy]

Another thing that helps is setting the log up on a gentle hill and start on the end that’s uphill. Gravity helps pull the saw through so you don’t get tired pushing on it

Yes this helps a lot.. You should not have to push too hard.

Also, once you have the full width of the bar into the lead edge of the cut, let the tip get out in front of the tail end of the bar.
So the bar is at an angle across the cut. Not much just a few inches will help.
When the bar is perpendicular to the cut, You'll have more of a tendency to "see-saw" in the cut.
Gravity and tip out front helps get a much smoother cut.
Start the day with chain a bit over tight until it's loose and settled in.
You're on your way!

 

[ADK_XJ]

Yes this helps a lot.. You should not have to push too hard.

Also, once you have the dull width of the bar into the lead edge of the cut, let the tip get out in front of the tail end of the bar.
So the bar is at an angle across the cut. Not much just a few inches will help.
When the bar is perpendicular to the cut, You'll have more of a tendency to "see-saw" in the cut.
Gravity and tip out front helps get a much smoother cut.
Start the day with chain a bit over tight until it's loose and settled in.
You're on your way!

Thanks! Good description and super helpful...I think I'm going to switch to doing some practice cuts on pine to get the hang of it.

 

[Hallrdave]

I’m no pro but I agree. Rocking back and forth will cause deep gouges and using old chains that are not properly sharpened. Also, I read bad things about mills that aren’t secured on both ends. I don’t remember where I read it but I read there could be an 1/8” difference between sides.... I find the best thing to do is get a super straight first cut as gouges will compound as you go on... I’ve also been trying to keep even pressure on the throttle and wood as I’m going and only going 1/3-1/2 speed as the faster I go the more likely it will go wonky. Try not to push the saw through the wood. Let it work at the speed it wants. I did notice today a cut getting out of wack. I brought the mill back to where it was riding properly and re sawed where I went astray. I had a decent gouge in the board I messed up on but the next boards were fine. Good luck whatever you do.

 

[Leeroy]

You can update that mill if you decide that's part of the issue.
Make sure your depth gauges are lower than what you'd normally have them for cross cutting.

 

[Stonesforbrains]

I’m no pro but I agree. Rocking back and forth will cause deep gouges and using old chains that are not properly sharpened. Also, I read bad things about mills that aren’t secured on both ends. I don’t remember where I read it but I read there could be an 1/8” difference between sides.... I find the best thing to do is get a super straight first cut as gouges will compound as you go on... I’ve also been trying to keep even pressure on the throttle and wood as I’m going and only going 1/3-1/2 speed as the faster I go the more likely it will go wonky. Try not to push the saw through the wood. Let it work at the speed it wants. I did notice today a cut getting out of wack. I brought the mill back to where it was riding properly and re sawed where I went astray. I had a decent gouge in the board I messed up on but the next boards were fine. Good luck whatever you do.

I haven’t had a problem with the small mill in the sense that the boards are uneven because the bar is only supported by the saw side clamp. I have found through reading/searching through a lot of info here and trying it, that using a support/guide board every cut will improve the consistency. If you have an issue with a cut, grooves and snipe and such, attach the support board again and you are working with a smooth surface again. I’m not an expert or even a novice on this at all, just my observations on the red cedar I’ve been milling for simple rough siding for my wood shed. I am still learning and always read what everybody has to say on the subject. I do go back and look through the milling 101 a lot. Good info there.

 

[kimosawboy]

Constant pressure down, constant feed rate (that your saw will take), constant throttle speed, lead with the tip of your bar a smidge. My wife saw your slab pic when I blew it up on the screen and asked if you were doing that on purpose..(she liked the texture)..
Good luck
G Vavra