Got any good pictures of your chain grinding ?

[Bobcat]

Santa delivered a Silvey 510 RC grinder for Christmas. I have been doing some 72LG chain, and starting to produce some decent results. But, I am little slow and always debating the correct vertical setting. I am going by the Oregon book: 25 degree TP angle, 60 degree top & side plate angles, and the Silvey has a 10 degree file angle built . I would appreciate seeing some pictures of other folks grinding. Even if you have a picture of "not so good work" because you were grinding & watching the big football game, sharing it and add a little description of what went wrong.

Also, I am not convienced that the 5/32 standard wheel the Silvey recommends for 3/8 is the best size.

Bob

 

[Lawn Masters]

For standard 3/8s chain I use a 3/16" wheel, Same for .404 chain. For .325, 3/8LP and 1/4 pitch chains I use a 1/8" wheel. This is with an oregon 511A too.

 

[gunrac]

I must be doing something right, as I use the same combination as oldsaw. Works well for me. I also use the 60 an 25 degree angles.
My neighbors call me the TREE DUDE

 

[gunrac]

P.S. A sharp chain ain't worth a ????, unless your rakers are filed correctly. Get a gage, and always file these by hand for best results.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Bobcat, here's a couple of pictures of Carlton workchain.
John

 

[Bobcat]

Gypo, that was some serious digital photography ! Thank you.
bob

 

[Lawn Masters]

Gypo's pic is of a square filed chisel chain, which he really likes to use.
I prefer round chisel to square filed. Nothing wrong with square chisel chain, I just dont have the skills to sharpen it right just yet.

 

[Bobcat]

Oh Gypo, I see that is square ground, and maybe a little larger chain than what I run. What pitch would that be ??
bob

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hi Bob, it's 3/8 Carlton .050. as far as I am concerned learning to square file isn't worth the effort for work chain as round chisel is just about as fast and takes alot less time. If I had a macro lens the pixs would be sharper.
Here's some 3/8 Oregon I will be turning into a racing chain.
John

 

[tony marks]

that chain hold up in hardwood ,john? smooth work..

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hi Tony, it depends on what you mean by holding up. I generally change chains about twice a day if I don't hit anything abrasive, however, what I may call dull, some else may call razor sharp. Sorta like shaving razor... some want a smooth painless shave while others pound their whiskers in with a hammer and bite them off inside.
John

 

[ghitch75]

Hi Bob, it's 3/8 Carlton .050. as far as I am concerned learning to square file isn't worth the effort for work chain as round chisel is just about as fast and takes alot less time. If I had a macro lens the pixs would be sharper.
Here's some 3/8 Oregon I will be turning into a racing chain.
John

man looks like that thing would snap in some good'ol indiana hickory!!!!!

 

[Bobcat]

Come on guys, how about uploading some pictures of your grinding. If this was competition, Gypo would win for just showing up. If you let him get away this easy, he is going to go off to some chainsaw tournament and not even bother to take gas.

I am still have a little judgement problem on the height, and seem to be setting up too high or too low. I guess some more time and chains will help work that out.

thanks--bob

 

[Oregon_Native]

its not a grinder but my rig will sharpen a chain well enough.

 

[galde]

Chain grinding

Bobcat:
The Oregon website has detailed illustrations of the proper angles for all of their chain types. I printed their manual for the Oregon 511 grinder, which seems identical to my Tecomec grinder. I don't like the way they say to do the depth gauge (raker, or drag) grinding. They say to use the slotted filing gauge to file one to the correct height, then adjust the grinder depth gauge to this height. Every chain grinder I have ever seen already has a built-in micrometer which lets you adjust the machine to grind each raker to within a couple of thousandths. One simply must first calibrate the grinder's depth adjustment. You need a hard object of known thickness, something about the size of a domino. Let's assume it is 3/8" thick. With a properly dressed jointing wheel (the wide flat one) in the (turned off) grinder, lower the wheel until it rests on the chain vise. Now turn the grinder depth adjusting screw until it touches its stop. Raise the grinder, place the 3/8" piece on the vise, and lower the grinder to the 3/8" piece. The depth adjusting screw now can be screwed down to contact its stop. If you first attach a pointer to the bottom knob used to adjust the tension on the adjusting screw, you can measure the amount of turning (the total number of knob ridges) required to lower the grinder the 3/8" distance. I attached to the lower knob a short length of a red plastic capillary tube that came with a spray can of brake cleaner. If you count the number of ridges on the knob, then you can determine the change in height per ridge. Mine happens to be .005" per ridge. After I sharpen a chain, I rest the (stationary) jointing wheel on a typical tooth, screw down the depth screw to contact its stop, move the tooth to put the raker under the wheel and clamp the vise, then move my eyeball so that I am sighting the red pointer to the nearest ridge (or groove), then back off the adjusting screw six ridges (or grooves) for a .030" depth, for example. Once this setting is made, I grind each raker in turn, knowing that the depth is correct to within a couple of thousandths. The depth gauge is one of the most critical components of the saw tooth, but it frequently doesn't get the attention it deserves. Filing them by hand is difficult to do with the necessary precision.

 

[glens]

I printed their manual for the Oregon 511 grinder, which seems identical to my Tecomec grinder.

It is identical; Tecomec makes the grinder.