Granberg EZRail problems

[Blue42]

I restrained myself from titling this "Granberg EZ Rail Junk.". When I started milling I spent too long messing around with ladders and 2x4s, getting bad cuts because of one problem or another. I finally opened my wallet again and bought the Granberg rail and thought that would settle that.
Wrong. The set screws that I take so much care to get just right, using a level and a straight edge, start backing out as soon as I put the saw on the rails. And not just a little bit. I have to stop sawing repeatedly to turn them in again so they won't come all the way out and get lost.
And, the connector kit that joins the 5ft rails together, if you have one screw work it's way loose, say good bye to the connector piece that will also slide out into the leaves and be lost for good. You can have a replacement for $30--the cost of the connector kit.
This thing is not junk. But it also sure wasn't thought out and engineered to a high degree of refinement.
Just assembling it, the edges of the channel rails impinge on the threaded holes for the set screws so that you either have to self tap a screw into them, or grind them away. There's nothing on the instructions about this. Maybe they intended this to be Mad Max type of locking mechanism so that the screws wouldn't back out?
Also had to stop cutting today when I saw sparks from the Granberg tip guard piece on the mill coming off the bolt and hitting the spinning chain. Also very nice. Engineered to a high degree of refinement.

 

[Husky Man]

I haven’t had your problems, I have been very Happy with all of my Granberg equipment.

As far as the leveling screws, I haven’t had to do it, but from what you are describing, set nuts should solve your problem. Adjust the leveling screws, then snug down a set nut on each screws and your problem should be solved


Doug

 

[gnef]

I started with an amazon version, and even bought two to connect together to make a longer rail. The problem I had was with sag with long bridging on tapered logs. I eventually decided to build my own rail out of 2040 aluminum extrusion. I bought 2m lengths, and have two sections butted together so that my rail is 4m in length, which is long enough for the cuts I'm doing, but I can easily add more sections later if needed. I've been very happy with my custom rail. I can post some pictures and links if you think you might be interested in building one for yourself, just let me know.

 

[Blue42]

Well, thanks for the replies. I put nuts and washers on the rail and it's working fine now.

I also had a rail bent somehow. I successfully straightened it using a couple wood clamps and a small scrap block of wood. Wasn't easy.

I also wrote to Granberg and they said they would mail me just the metal slot piece I lost, so that was nice of them.
They also said the aluminum impinging on the set screws was meant to keep them from shaking loose in operation. But that sounded kind of weak, as though he had just taken the possible explanation I asked about as a convenient answer. "Sure, that's why." I really don't know that there is a deliberate design reason that you can't get the set screws in without forcing them to self tap their own threads into the edges of the cross rails. That still just seems like sloppiness in the design to me.
He said the lateral force produced by the log dogs should keep the set screws from turning. I'm using nuts.

 

[thenne1713]

To those Granberg users that are NOT using a WINCH, YOU ARE MISSING OUT. GET the winch, you will be AMAZED at HOW MUCH BETTER your back /knees/ arms feel at the end of day, and hopefully, with better, faster, smoother cuts. MY CURRENT mill is LOGOSOL M8, and everyone LOVES the winch. I feel like Tom Sawyer

 

[thenne1713]

Well, thanks for the replies. I put nuts and washers on the rail and it's working fine now.

I also had a rail bent somehow. I successfully straightened it using a couple wood clamps and a small scrap block of wood. Wasn't easy.

I also wrote to Granberg and they said they would mail me just the metal slot piece I lost, so that was nice of them.
They also said the aluminum impinging on the set screws was meant to keep them from shaking loose in operation. But that sounded kind of weak, as though he had just taken the possible explanation I asked about as a convenient answer. "Sure, that's why." I really don't know that there is a deliberate design reason that you can't get the set screws in without forcing them to self tap their own threads into the edges of the cross rails. That still just seems like sloppiness in the design to me.
He said the lateral force produced by the log dogs should keep the set screws from turning. I'm using nuts.

I agree LOCK NUTS ARE THE KEY, maybe even try a NYLOCK? Maybe not Nylock, but might be worth the experiment? OTOH, spinning nuts by fingers maybe more important?

 

[Assembler]

If the set screws are removed and replaced with much longer bolts with locking nuts may help with locking in place longer. In some places the bolts sticking out will be a problem though.

 

[Up A Creek]

This is why I made my own guide rails. I have the Granberg mill and it's fantastic. But I was hesitant about the EZ rail stuff.

I have a set of 24" and a set of 36" angle iron I use as a mount and 2 x 4s I made into a "T" beam for guides. Very stable.