Granberg File-N-Joint, Revisited

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Philbert

Chainsaw Enthusiast
. AS Supporting Member.
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*Note: The original images in this thread were lost. I will try to add some back which are as close as possible . I cannot add photos back to other people's posts*

When I first started to sharpen my own chains I bought an Oregon, bar-mounted, filing guide (model 23736A). This was the 'professional' model; made in Italy, retailed for about $40, and had more metal parts than the model sold in home centers (model 23820) for about half that cost.

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The instructions were not that clear. It was clumsy to mount on the bar. It was slow. But it gave me GREAT results; nearly perfect cutters that were razor sharp. It also helped me to understand filing, and how to use a conventional file holder for touch-ups in the field.

After I got a grinder, I sold that filing guide on Craig'sList.

A thread on the Timberline chain sharpener < http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/180488.htm > got me thinking about this again. I had a dozen chains to sharpen for a variety of saws, and 'talked myself into' the idea that it would be nice to have a sharpener that I could use in the house without generating a lot of noise or dust. Several A.S. members had posted in threads that they thought that the Granberg Fie-N-Joint was better than the Oregon, so when Bailey's had a sale and promo that brought it down below $22 I ordered one.

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The package proudly stated that it was 'Made in USA', but the edges of die-cast pieces were rough and uneven, and there were several sharp corners on castings and even the thumb screws. I disassembled it, and spent about a half hour filing, grinding, and buffing the rough edges and corners smooth. I mounted the Granberg on scrap guide bars held in a vise, as I did my Oregon, so that I did not have to mount each chain on a saw (and because I did not have all the saws there!). I filed the depth gauges by hand.

Again, the provided instructions were poor (a YouTube video was much better). Again, it was kind of awkward to position and mount on the bar. Again, it was slow. Again, I got GREAT results.

I don't know if the older Granbergs were of higher quality, and I don't have my old Oregon to compare side by side. But this one does not appear like it will hold up to extended use.

Out of curiosity, I checked out one of the cheaper Oregon guides at a local home center. They had one left marked 'Made in Italy'; the newer stock was labled 'Made in China'. The Italian and Chinese gauges looked nearly identical, except for the fasteners (thumb screws, screw, nuts) which visually appeared to be of lower quality finish on the Chinese model. They both probably work OK.

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I have not tried the Timberline sharpener, although, it has generally received very positive reviews here on A.S. I bought the Granberg because it was $100 cheaper, and because it used commonly available files.

In summary, each of these Oregon or Granberg style sharpening guides would be good for someone new to sharpening; for someone who wants to get very precise and consistent edges; for someone who has some time to spend sharpening; and for someone who does not have a large number of chains to sharpen.

They adjust for consistent filing angle, file tilt, file height, and depth of cut. As a practical matter, you still have to learn how to push the file in a straight line, and to count strokes.

I could not get cutters this consistent by free hand filing, or using a simple file holder and one of the scrap bars. I have multiple chains per saw, and do not wnat to have to mount each one in the saw to sharpen. These Granberg and Oregon holders have a spring metal dog to help keep the cutters from sliding backward, and small guides on each side of the chain to help hold it down by clamping above the rivets. A good filing vise that securely clamps the chain might be able to provide the same benefit for those who are more comfortable maintaining consistent file angles.

Philbert
 
i used one of my Grandbergs this afternoon. With this available, I don't know if I will ever try free hand. They work well for me.

In my opinion, better than the Oregon brand but I got mine several years ago and I don't know how well they are making them now.
 
I sharpen all my chains with my Granberg FnJ, and have for 5 years. I love it. Just like you said, dont be in a hurry, and it provides great results. It is the only way I sharpen chains, and I have sharpened hundreds with that thing. I grease the slide once in a while.
 
I sharpen all my chains with my Granberg FnJ, and have for 5 years. I love it. Just like you said, dont be in a hurry, and it provides great results. It is the only way I sharpen chains, and I have sharpened hundreds with that thing. I grease the slide once in a while.
+1...a super good product...imho..!!

That's the way I do it 90% of the time..!!
:cheers:
J2F
 
I've got a Timberline ,and it works well . But, I'm tempted to buy a Granberg because I think they can fine tune some angles better . That assumption could be wrong . But then CAD goes deep . It even affects the tools We buy . Heck, I'm even tempted to buy a Silvey grinderwith ABN . Does this crap ever stop
????
 
My Granberg has been good to me. Even figured out how to rig it to file square. Not sure how old it is but the build quality is excellent. If yours is not-so-good, maybe buy an older one off of the 'Bay.

This was one of my questions I was thinking about asking!
 
They adjust for consistent filing angle, file tilt, file height, and depth of cut. As a practical matter, you still have to learn how to push the file in a straight line, and to count strokes.

Not sure on yours, but on my italian oregon model you can adjust it so that the cutters are all filed back to the same length..I.E. no counting strokes, and also you can rig it with a flat file to do rakers all at the same depth....works if all your teeth are the same length. These things work great and I am a firm believer that you get a much better edge with one of these than a grinder. I usually touch up my new chains right out of the box too.
 
Not sure on yours, but on my italian oregon model you can adjust it so that the cutters are all filed back to the same length..I.E. no counting strokes, and also you can rig it with a flat file to do rakers all at the same depth....works if all your teeth are the same length. These things work great and I am a firm believer that you get a much better edge with one of these than a grinder. I usually touch up my new chains right out of the box too.

You can do the equal length thing with the Granberg, but let me say I NEVER have, not in 35+ years. It'd be a waste of time IMHO. Generally, I set it up on the bar in a couple of casual minutes, give the cutters 2 strokes on one side, then do the other the same. Pretty easy counting to two. :biggrin:

What I'm alleging is that its easy enough to set up to get precise repeatable results, that you can minimize metal removal. Seems I get pretty good chain lifetime with it. :msp_thumbup:

Philbert says it's slow and cumbersome to mount. Not IMHO. It may be tricky to lock in position on bar, if the bar has teflon coating like the one that came with my Husqy. Very low friction coefficient.
 
I tried to use my newer File-N-Joint on my 1/2" chain and found out that the cutters wouldn't pass through it. I dug out the old McCulloch branded File-N-Joint that came in a kit with an old McCulloch 33 that I bought several years ago. It worked fine with the 1/2" chain. It also has a better finish and hardware. The wing nuts on the old one are easier to grip than the thumb screws on the newer one that I have. The swivel guide on the old one has a felt wick in the center of it that you oil to keep lubrication on the upper rod.

tarabe4e.jpg
 
Not sure on yours, but on my italian oregon model you can adjust it so that the cutters are all filed back to the same length.

You can on the Granberg just received. However, as CTYank noted, an extra step that may not be needed. Even when I count strokes and try to maintain even pressure, I will sometimes give one cutter an extra stroke or 2 if it did not feel like the file passed through as smoothly as on the other cutters. I guess that this might be a trade off for a consistent edge at the expense of slightly different length cutters?

I dug out the old McCulloch branded File-N-Joint that came in a kit with an old McCulloch 33 that I bought several years ago.

THAT looks like a much higher quality tool than the current Granberg File-N-Joint, and the kind that I would like to find at a garage sale, Craig's List, etc.!!! Is that what the old Granbergs look like? Anybody got one they are willing to part with?

There is also a STIHL version shown in their catalog, and a bench mount version. The bench mount version was listed at over $200 when I tried to get a price.

Philbert

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I got the Stihl bench mounted guide for xmas, works great. I had been using a old Oregon brand jig, much better built than the new models. I still use it if I dont feel like pulling the bar and chain. The bench mounted version is very nice to use and is alot better built than anything else I have seen(179.99 @ dealer)
 
I have found the casting and fit and finish to be a little lacking from Granberg. My alaskan mill was a mess with casting flash when I got it. A couple of the welds needed a redo as well.
 
I found the original instruction sheet for that old McCulloch File-N-Joint. It's a 1958 model.


Sent by fumbling around with those tiny keys on my phone:)
 
I found the original instruction sheet for that old McCulloch File-N-Joint. It's a 1958 model.

Maybe that is why I find it so appealing - I am from a similar model year !

Interesting that yours says 'Made in USA by Nygran Ind.' Wonder if that was a related company, or if it was made by someone else first. The Granberg website clearly implies that they invented it.

"Designed by Elof Granberg over 50 years ago, the File-n-Joint still sets the industry standard for accuracy and durability. Sharpen cross cut chain and ripping chain to factory specs."

Philbert
 
I bought my Granberg probably back in the late 70s. Probably. Been using it ever since, though I also have, now, a Maxx grinder. The Granberg is cast metal, for sure, and no hi-tech precision tool. However, with decades of use, I have had nothing on it wear out and it's done hundreds and hundreds of sharpenings. I now use it for a half-dozen filings or so, then run the chains through the Maxx.

I've never used any of the similar competitors, so don't know how the Granberg compares. Nor have I seen one any newer than maybe 30 yr. old, so don't know if the more recent ones are lower quality. My BIL bought a new one two yr. ago, I haven't seen it but he says it works great and no problems. And they are definitely worth the price, which is still quite reasonable.

As a couple other posters have said, I don't bother with the cutter-length option. I did at first, then I decided it was completely unnecessary.
 
I'm pretty much a newbie but I like to throw my retirement money away while I'm still young.
So, I bought the Granberg last year. I was using the dremel with the little jig and it worked just OK.
Granberg does a great job. No question about it.
I recently bought the Timberline. It works great too. Faster material removal than the file. I'm working through a load of logs now that I was told "might have a few nails". I could see 2X4 steps up all main trunk pieces :msp_mad:
So, the faster material removal is important to me now (3 nails so far).
I haven't used the Granberg since but I'd never get rid of it.

Summary
Granberg - time tested design, file availability, adjust ability, price
Timberline - faster, good easy to set tooth stop, compact

Just my opinion...
 
I'm pretty much a newbie but I like to throw my retirement money away while I'm still young.

Great to have the side-by-side comparison perspective. Thanks! The bottom line is to find a method that works for you. You might even decide to use your Dremel to hog away at a rocked chain, then finish the edge with the Granberg or Timberline.

As long as you are throwing away some of your retirement money, maybe you want to pick up a metal detector as well? These are sold through a lot of woodworking catalogs and websites, and some of the more powerful ones will work on logs, depending upon the diameter, dryness, etc. These can be helpful, especially if you have an idea where to look.

Philbert
 
As long as you are throwing away some of your retirement money, maybe you want to pick up a metal detector as well? These are sold through a lot of woodworking catalogs and websites, and some of the more powerful ones will work on logs, depending upon the diameter, dryness, etc. These can be helpful, especially if you have an idea where to look.

Philbert
Good idea. I've always wanted one. My house is an old farm house built in 1890. I find something every time I dig a hole for a post or to plant a tree. I'm sure I'll get as rich as those guys on TV.
 
Good idea. I've always wanted one. My house is an old farm house built in 1890. I find something every time I dig a hole for a post or to plant a tree. I'm sure I'll get as rich as those guys on TV.

Don't want to get too off topic here, but I was thinking more of this type ($150 - $170) - not sure if it will help you find buried treasure! Not sure if the treasure finders will help you find nails in wood either, but if you know someone that has one, you might want to try it out.

Philbert

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