GRCS question...

[treesandsurf]

When lifting heavier pieces I have been using two to three wraps depending on the size and then securing the rope prior to attaching the handle to lift. I notice that going from lifting back to lowering can be a bit sketchy as you have to manually take the wrap off of the locking portion of the bollard (hope this makes sense). Are there any recommendations or advice for switching between lowering and lifting so as not to get sucked into the bollard when dealing with heavy loads?

Also, I know the GRCS comes with a video but is there a link online showing the video as well or a number (Greg Good's) to contact to buy another copy? Thanks for the help!

jp

 

[TreeBot]

First of all, when lifting, you are supposed to put as many wraps as you can tightly fit on the bollard, which is 5 with 3/4" stablebraid and more with smaller rope.

When switching to lowering, keep the rope perpendicular to the bollard, and switch to the pig tail after removing the required number of wraps. Getting careless and letting the tail of the rope run from the bollard out towards the front of the grcs, instead of the side, can lead to all of the wraps spinning off and the load releasing.

 

[Grace Tree]

I agree with Treeco that ideally, the GRCS should be mounted on a tree outside the work zone. Unfortunately, that's not always possible. Going from lift to lower on the GRCS does seem to be the part of the process with the most liability. I lost wraps twice this summer. No damage either time other than a little rope burn. Ideally, when making the transition, I like to keep one hand on the wraps on the drum while releasing wraps with the other hand and putting the line in the pigtail. The problem arises when there is no other tree to mount on but the work tree. You end up working under the load with your brain telling you to hurry up and get the heck out of there. It's an unsafe situation but I'm not really sure what the solution is.
Reagrds,
Phil

 

[SWAMPY036]

video

bailys and wesspur will send you a copy for free.

 

[randyg]

Work Under the Load???

I use a homemade rope brake similar to Hobbs with larger dia. tube. Use fiddle block if need to lift. Usually place two pulleys in seperate and opposite limbs and place brake on opposite side of tree from where load will be lowered. If false crotching down the stem the pieces still come off the side opposite the brake. Saves the bull rope getting beat up by that piece as it swings back into the stem too. (32 feet per second per second) Life is to short to work under the load.

randy

 

[newb]

If your down to three wraps and have a heavy load on, like small wood says put your hand on the wraps and stay in line with them going to the pig tail. Under no circumstance should you ever be under the load. The GRCS should either be in another tree or 90 deg. from the lowering block. Rig safe... Pete

 

[fireman]

Put a directional at the base of the tree your working on and anchor on another tree away from your drop zone.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I like the line about putting as many wraps as possible, when goingg heavy, I can get 6 wraps with 1/2 in stablebraid and at least 5 with 9/16.

start your wraps with a little slack, put 3-4 on the drum, then draw the slack out so that turns get drawn up the and give room for 2 more.

you may get a little wedged in the thimble, but I've had no problem getting it out. and do not have any slipage on even the heaviest picks and pulls.

then when taking the wraps off, allways maintain some tension on the line, thee tension is what keepss the friction on the drum.

If you have slippage problems as soon as the rope comees out of the jaws, you do not have enough wraps on the drum