Grinder Teeth.

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kiwidiesel

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new zealand
We are about to convert our Vermeer 352 Stump Grinder to Green Teeth and want to know which ones to use. Have been told 700 series. Is this correct. If you are using them on a similar size machine could you please give me some feedback about which series to use and how are they wearing, especially pocket wear. Also are the pockets reversible.
Have been using Yellow Jackets but tooth price has gone from NZ$23 to NZ$41 plus tax.
We are also finding Yellow Jackets to be very soft and the edge wears very quickly compared to the old pro teeth After one or two sharpens the leading edge of the tooth moves back and the pockets start wearing badly because the tooth is no longer protecting them, does this happen with green teeth.
We would appreciate your honest opinions and feedback.
 
700 teeth.

G'day in NZ.

I'm using the 700 teeth on a Carlton (RedRoo in Aus) SP 4012 - 33HP.

Here the teeth are around $11 ea and pockets $26 ea.

The 700's were 19mm dia, but recently changed to 20mm dia. The latter are much better and give better cutting life and take longer to lose the cutting edge.

Don't even think of sharpening, waste of time, by the time you rotate once they will be throw outs.

Easy to replace a cutter, no need to have a gauge to set cutter length.

I havn't had other cutter experience but find that I replace, on average, one cutter per hour.

Hope this helps, PM if you like.
 
G'day in NZ.

I'm using the 700 teeth on a Carlton (RedRoo in Aus) SP 4012 - 33HP.

Here the teeth are around $11 ea and pockets $26 ea.

The 700's were 19mm dia, but recently changed to 20mm dia. The latter are much better and give better cutting life and take longer to lose the cutting edge.

Don't even think of sharpening, waste of time, by the time you rotate once they will be throw outs.

Easy to replace a cutter, no need to have a gauge to set cutter length.

I havn't had other cutter experience but find that I replace, on average, one cutter per hour.

Hope this helps, PM if you like.

What??!?! Don't sharpen greenteeth? Nonsense. Easy to do even yourself if you have a drill press and a bench grinder. Just set the drill press up over a green wheel on the grinder. Then just pull the greenteeth down on the drill press while it's running onto the greenwheel.

I ran 700s on my Rayco 1625 (27hp) and could sharpen them 3 or 4 times before they were too thin to reuse. Sure beats spending $11 a pop.
 
Hello GR8S, You must grind balsa all day and live in stump grinders garden of eden- you know, the one with unlimited pure soil and no stone !!!!!:)

I don't sharpen because of the amount of rock, steel posts, bricks, concrete et-bloody-cetera that is prevalent in a lot of the areas I work. By the time its ready to rotate 60 degrees the cutting edge has lost probably 2 or 3 mm of its 20mm dia. on that side. After the one rotate, you don't get three by the way, the other side is also down 2 or 3mm leaving an irregular shaped cutter about say 15-16mm dia.

Now you can sharpen that 15-16mm or so cutter, but the dia. is so small after sharpening that the pocket holding it gets nil protection from the cutter - which results in accelerated wear of the $26 pocket.

I could take them off sooner and sharpen but the reduced dia. and accelerated wear on the pockets doesn't work for me.

Now what I really want to do is get onto some 20mm dia cutter carbides, any clues Scott ?

Just what I have found, depends on your grinding environment I guess.

A few SP4012's, in the UK I think it was, have apparently been running 900's with success. The distributor here told me the bigger cutter would overload the machine and was unsuitable for Aus. conditions.

If cost wasn't such an issue I'd love to try some 900's though, bigger cutters have got to last longer you'd think.

(I was watching a Rayco 35hp the other day over a fence, no idea what cutters but it sounded like a jack hammer, very very rough, whatever he had on I wouldn't want!)

Now what I'd really like to do is get onto some 20mm dia. tungsten carbide cutters to replace the worn carbides. Any clues for them Scott ?
Can't buy them in Aus. that I know of.
 
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Hello GR8S, You must grind balsa all day and live in stump grinders garden of eden- you know, the one with unlimited pure soil and no stone !!!!!:)

I don't sharpen because of the amount of rock, steel posts, bricks, concrete et-bloody-cetera that is prevalent in a lot of the areas I work. By the time its ready to rotate 60 degrees the cutting edge has lost probably 2 or 3 mm of its 20mm dia. on that side. After the one rotate, you don't get three by the way, the other side is also down 2 or 3mm leaving an irregular shaped cutter about say 15-16mm dia.

Now you can sharpen that 15-16mm or so cutter, but the dia. is so small after sharpening that the pocket holding it gets nil protection from the cutter - which results in accelerated wear of the $26 pocket.

I could take them off sooner and sharpen but the reduced dia. and accelerated wear on the pockets doesn't work for me.

Now what I really want to do is get onto some 20mm dia cutter carbides, any clues Scott ?

Just what I have found, depends on your grinding environment I guess.

A few SP4012's, in the UK I think it was, have apparently been running 900's with success. The distributor here told me the bigger cutter would overload the machine and was unsuitable for Aus. conditions.

If cost wasn't such an issue I'd love to try some 900's though, bigger cutters have got to last longer you'd think.

(I was watching a Rayco 35hp the other day over a fence, no idea what cutters but it sounded like a jack hammer, very very rough, whatever he had on I wouldn't want!)

Now what I'd really like to do is get onto some 20mm dia. tungsten carbide cutters to replace the worn carbides. Any clues for them Scott ?
Can't buy them in Aus. that I know of.
Try looking up Sandvik on their website. They make tungstens to fit most applications. They must have a branch in your area. They probably also carry welding supplies so you can nail the tip to the tooth.
 
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