Hard saw to pressure test

[a. palmer jr.]

I've done pressure/vac tests on several saws but so far the hardest one to do is the one I have on my bench right now, it's an old Homelite XL2. This saw showed all the signs of having a fairly big air leak and when I went to pressure test it I couldn't get the thing to hold any pressure even though I'd closed the intake, exhaust and all the air lines coming from the crankcase to the oiler. It seems on this saw I've even had to block off the holes that are for the mounting of the engine to the case! I ended up putting the screws into the engine with Dirko sealer around them or air was gonna leak around them. With all that I still don't have all the pressure contained. All this for a saw that's probably not worth $30..

 

[lone wolf]

I've done pressure/vac tests on several saws but so far the hardest one to do is the one I have on my bench right now, it's an old Homelite XL2. This saw showed all the signs of having a fairly big air leak and when I went to pressure test it I couldn't get the thing to hold any pressure even though I'd closed the intake, exhaust and all the air lines coming from the crankcase to the oiler. It seems on this saw I've even had to block off the holes that are for the mounting of the engine to the case! I ended up putting the screws into the engine with Dirko sealer around them or air was gonna leak around them. With all that I still don't have all the pressure contained. All this for a saw that's probably not worth $30..

So to hell with the junk.

 

[scooby074]

What about trying to pressureize using a turned down air compressor? Then dunk in a bucket. That should provide enough air volume to show where to start plugging leaks

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

What about trying to pressureize using a turned down air compressor? Then dunk in a bucket. That should provide enough air volume to show where to start plugging leaks

A very good suggestion. I haven’t ever needed more air supply than what the mityvac offers, but if I did, this is exactly what I’d be doing. Though I’d probably hold off dunking until a last resort.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

So to hell with the junk.

The problem is it's not mine, belongs to a relative of my wife..

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I'll go out tomorrow and see if I made any headway with it. Owner doesn't want to put much into it so if it needs a carb or something I'll just give it back to him. I'll remove the flywheel and clutch and see if the mains are leaking, that's about all that's left...

 

[Okie]

What about trying to pressureize using a turned down air compressor? Then dunk in a bucket. That should provide enough air volume to show where to start plugging leaks

The problem is it's not mine, belongs to a relative of my wife..

Good idea above about placing under water then afterwards trying to use it for a boat anchor, but them do make good donor saws for parts/pieces. Just have to know what pieces are ok to re-use.

Let us know what you find?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The problem is it's not mine, belongs to a relative of my wife..

Good idea above about placing under water then afterwards trying to use it for a boat anchor, but them do make good donor saws for parts/pieces. Just have to know what pieces are ok to re-use.

Let us know what you find?

I found out he didn't want to buy a good chainsaw for $40..

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I tried to pressure test it again and never did find the source of the leak. I sprayed soapy water on the engine but will admit I didn't take the time to remove the flywheel and clutch, I just sprayed under them but didn't see any bubbles. Whatever the problem is it's gonna cost more than he wants to pay so I decided to slap it back together and give it back to him.
If I were to guess I'd say that the problem is the seal on the flywheel side but I'm not going to buy the set $24.95+shp. to find out.

 

[Okie]

I found out he didn't want to buy a good chainsaw for $40..

Yep, I do not sell anything to kinfolks, but I have loaned them money just so I would not see them again. (just kidding here about the money loan, but not kidding about selling anything to kin folks)

You can choose your friends but you can't choose family.

Also I've found out that when I repair something for kinfolks, they then think it has a lifetime warranty. (the lifetime warranty is for my lifetime)

 

[Okie]

I tried to pressure test it again and never did find the source of the leak. I sprayed soapy water on the engine but will admit I didn't take the time to remove the flywheel and clutch, I just sprayed under them but didn't see any bubbles. Whatever the problem is it's gonna cost more than he wants to pay so I decided to slap it back together and give it back to him.
If I were to guess I'd say that the problem is the seal on the flywheel side but I'm not going to buy the set $24.95+shp. to find out.

Right about throwing $24.95 and then find it has other problems downstream in addition to seals. We both know you can very easily get more $$'s and time into one of them little Homie's than they are worth, especially working on one for someone else. If a person wants one of them type saws running they need to be able to repair their own saw.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

There's a small engine shop down the street from me that also has several decent chainsaws for cheap but he wouldn't go in and see what they had either. Basically I think he wants a free chainsaw like some people on ebay.
By the way, I think this XL2 is around 50 years old, I really think it's time it retired..

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Ah at 50 years old it would have been best to have just explained in the first instance that at the age of that saw it’s going to cost far more in parts than it’s worth. Seals, carb kit, fuel lines, filter, points and condenser are the minimum it would need just because of its age if he wants reliability from it!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Ah at 50 years old it would have been best to have just explained in the first instance that at the age of that saw it’s going to cost far more in parts than it’s worth. Seals, carb kit, fuel lines, filter, points and condenser are the minimum it would need just because of its age if he wants reliability from it!

Ah, he already knew it, saw belonged to his dad I think. He wasn't going to use the saw much since he lives in town. I had the talk with him, he was just hoping I could patch it up for just a few dollars and I told him I'd take a look at it. I've got a saw just like it sitting on my other table and I'm not gonna fix it either, just use it for parts. It won't need points since someone has already changed it over to a chip..

 

[hotshot]

Those midget Homelite saws are really easy to P/V test, once you get it out of the chassis & make an exhaust port blind plate. Cutting with one is like fat girls & mopeds, fun to ride but you don’t want anyone to see you…

The intake blind just uses a rubber sheet wedge between the carb & heat isolator.

Remember to jumper the oil pump inlet to outlet with a piece of fuel tubing. If the oiler diaphragm is leaking, it’ll show up on the pump vent cover hole. Test it through a spark plug fitting.

80% of the leakers are at the siliconed case seam (clam shells), 20% are the $5 crank seals, SKF 4913. Avoid using the National-Timken ‘equivalent’ 340847, as there’s no garter spring in it.