Hard starting Husky 460

[JimmyM]

I bought a Husky 460 about a month and a half ago. I wish I had found these forums before. This thing starts easy when cold and while warming up. Runs like a champ and cuts well, good power. After cutting for a while, I shut it off, then it becoms VERY diffucult to restart.
I flip the kill switch and give it a pull, it fires instantly, then bogs and dies within 1-2 seconds. Then I have to pump the bulb several times, pull the cord, then set the choke and pull several more times finally it sputters. Then I open the choke and it's off and running. Also, it seems to lose power as if it's running out of gas when it has 1/4-1/3 of a tank left. This is when cutting with the saw pretty level. You gotta help me. I've about had it with this "Professional" grade saw.

 

[retoocs555]

I'll take a shot in the dark that the problem is fuel line related. Maybe a pinced line or something.

 

[Dan Forsh]

If the month and a half is from new take it back and get them to sort it out. You shouldn't have to deal with issues so soon.

If not from new.... keep reading here and someone will help you solve it.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

You have a new saw model and it's a month old. Take it in to where you bought it and have them look at it. It sounds like something simple like a plugged up tank vent.
And who told you it was a pro saw? A 3120, 575, 372, maybe. A 346, some goof balls think so, but a 460? Uhh, let me think about that...NO!

 

[retoocs555]

You have a new saw model and it's a month old. Take it in to where you bought it and have them look at it. It sounds like something simple like a plugged up tank vent.
And who told you it was a pro saw? A 3120, 575, 372, maybe. A 346, some goof balls think so, but a 460? Uhh, let me think about that...NO!

But... Doesn't husqvarna print the word 'Professional' on all their saws?

 

[Rspike]

You have a new saw model and it's a month old. Take it in to where you bought it and have them look at it. It sounds like something simple like a plugged up tank vent.
And who told you it was a pro saw? A 3120, 575, 372, maybe. A 346, some goof balls think so, but a 460? Uhh, let me think about that...NO!

What was this ? ..."A 346, some goof balls think so" The 346xp is NOT a pro saw ? You must be talking about an Echo

 

[JimmyM]

I'd rather stay focused on the starting issue instead of the Pro vs non-pro issue. I bought it brand new. The fact is... a $400 saw shouldn't have these problems. No saw should. I intend on taking back to the shop. I just wanted to see what the community had to say. I was wondring if it was a "Hey it's a common problem. Do X, Y, and Z and you're all set" type of thing. This is my first saw. I wanted to get a good one and I'm thinking I made a terrible mistake in getting a Husky instead of a Stihl.

Yeah. It says "Professional" right on the recoil cover.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

No, you did not make a mistake buying a Husky over a Stihl. Any new saw could have a small problem, even when new. It's a good idea to get a new saw in for a check up after a few tanks of gas anyway. They tend to "loosen up" and need slight carb adjustments. You don't want to run lean.

Yeah. It says "Professional" right on the recoil cover.

Most saw makers have good and bad in their line up. If you said you bought a Stihl 021 because it was a pro saw, I'd laugh at you.
In the world of marketing, "Professional" doesn't mean Professionals use them, it means, "Hey, stupid homeowner, I'm a real good saw."
To me a professional saw is one that is a preferred saw of professional users, one that you'll commonly find in a logger or tree service's stable of saws. Some examples are Stihl 660, 460, 440, 200, Husky 3120, 395, 385, 372, and 338.
IF you look at any reputable auto mechanics tool box, you won't often see a socket set with "made in China" stamped on them, but I could show you lots of Chinese tools that say Professional. Get it?

 

[retoocs555]

Most saw makers have good and bad in their line up. If you said you bought a Stihl 021 because it was a pro saw, I'd laugh at you.
In the world of marketing, "Professional" doesn't mean Professionals use them, it means, "Hey, stupid homeowner, I'm a real good saw."
To me a professional saw is one that is a preferred saw of professional users, one that you'll commonly find in a logger or tree service's stable of saws. Some examples are Stihl 660, 460, 440, 200, Husky 3120, 395, 385, 372, and 338.
IF you look at any reputable auto mechanics tool box, you won't often see a socket set with "made in China" stamped on them, but I could show you lots of Chinese tools that say Professional. Get it?

I know, I know. It's really all marketing, but to an un-informed buyer it could be confusing.

 

[computeruser]

This is my first saw. I wanted to get a good one and I'm thinking I made a terrible mistake in getting a Husky instead of a Stihl.

It sounds like you got a good saw with a little problem. It happens sometimes, and it could just as easily have happened if you'd purchased a Stihl. Your saw should still prove to be an excellent and durable machine once the problem is diagnosed and addressed. I wouldn't be kicking myself over making a "terrible mistake" if I were you; feeling a bit of annoyance with the situation is OK, though.

For all the pro- versus non-pro talk out there, you'll rarely hear critiques that speak to specific inherent defects of the non-pro saws from either Stihl or Husqvarna. Sure, they're "overweight", have crankcases that split the "wrong" way, and have plastic in places where others have metal. But so what? For most folks, these saws competently get the job done and last a long time. And at the end of the day, that's ALL that matters.

Though this is annoying right now, try to look at this as a learning experience. I suspect that you have already learned more about your saw because of this little problem and the research you've done than you ever would have if it hadn't give you trouble, and I suspect that this will continue even after the problem has been solved. So get 'er fixed, get back to cutting, and be sure to let us know what the problem was and how it was fixed.

 

[JimmyM]

Thanks to all, guys. I'm just a homeowner but wanted to buy a really good saw so I don't have to buy a new one after a couple dozen cords because I wore it out. I don't earn a living with this saw. But, at 60cc, it's not s chump saw either. After I get the whole starting issue resolved I'll be a lot happier with it. I love the way it cuts. Then I'll look into chain types, filing my own, and maybe a muffler mod. 3.8 HP is a little light for a 60cc motor.
Anyway. Thanks again. I'll bring it into the shop for a good going over and see what happens.

 

[Freakingstang]

If you don't have any luck with the saw shop, or before you make it there, it sounds like the carb needs ajusted richer on both the L and H screws. There may be some adjustment left, if so, turn them counterclockwise (out) to make them a tad richer. It might fix you problem. Still a good idea to have a good dealer take a look at it.

 

[SawTroll]

.... I wanted to get a good one and I'm thinking I made a terrible mistake in getting a Husky instead of a Stihl.

If you made a mistake, it was buying a new unproven model, not buying a Husky vs. a Stihl.

Yeah. It says "Professional" right on the recoil cover.

I simply don't believe that Husky would be stupid enough to put a "Professional" sticker on a plastic cased saw like the 460.

Someone else must have put it there, after it left the factory.......

 

[JimmyM]

If you made a mistake, it was buying a new unproven model, not buying a Husky vs. a Stihl.


I simply don't believe that Husky would be stupid enough to put a "Professional" sticker on a plastic cased saw like the 460.

Someone else must have put it there, after it left the factory.......

Upon second inspection it doesn't say "Professional". I must have been thinking about another model I was looking at.

I'm going to try to find some gas without alcohol. Maybe that'll make a difference. Also, I had the cover off last night to clean/check things. Fuel line doesn't appear to be kinked but I was wondring about vapor lock? Could it be getting hot enough in the carb/fuel line area to be causing vaporlock? That's what it seems like is happening. It seems like after it's hot and left to sit for a minute, it has to be re-primed.

 

[HiOctane]

The way you describe itat first suggest you got a vapor lock problem,But when you say she is like running out of gas at 1/4 tank,then i would suspect the air vent on your fuel tank.When she does like running out of gas at 1/4,stop the saw and open the fuel cap slowly and listen for air escaping from the fuel cap.If so,then the vent is blocked.

 

[SawTroll]

Have you tried to open the fuel tank cap when it starts acting up.

If that helps, it most likely is the tank vent that is the problem.

Anyway, I agree with those who say "take it back to the dealer".