Hard to start.

[GIZROID]

I have a Stihl MS 361 that I have had for a year. I am very pleased with the power and performance. The problem is starting. It takes 2-3 pulls on the choke and then at least 6 more pulls to start. Once it is running you have to very gently apply the throttle until it warms up or it will cut off. I am using good quality gas 89-91 octane and Stihl oil miixed 50:1. The air filter is cleaned after every use. The chain isn't too tight. It was difficult to start the day I purchased it and the Stihl dealer told me that it would improve after the break-in period. I took it to the local "Stihl guru" (not) and he adjusted it and said that he thought that is was easier to start. There was no improvement. I expect a little more out of such a technologically advanced saw that cost $589. I have a 14y.o. Husky 51 that always starts on the second pull.

 

[l2edneck]

i had almost same prob with 390

seems there was a prob in fuel line replaced it now works fine cranks in 3 pulls(2 with choke 1 without)

 

[314epw]

hard start

Just worked on one yesterday,same thing.Low speed carb adjustment was too lean.Turn 1/8 turn counter clockwise and try.Change plug also.Plug should be coco brown in color
Ed

 

[GIZROID]

Could the plug have been bad from the start because this has always been a problem.

 

[Lakeside53]

It's not likely the plug. Air cleaners dirty or not have little to no effect on starting.

I can be the coil (which has a lifetime warranty). The coil is "smart" and retards the ignition and won't allow spark until you reach a certain rpm. Sometime it can get messed up and retards way too much. I seen one like this in two years. Make sure the coil/flywheel gap is correct - too wide and it will definitely be too retarded.

Having to "baby" the saw along to get it to rev up is bad... Too lean and not a good thing..

Your problem is most likely fuel related. Try squirting mix down the carb throat. It fires to life, then you either aren't getting gas to the engine or the L mixture is too lean. As already suggested, enrichen the L screw. You might need to turn up the LA screw to compensate.

If it's been dong this since new, then why didn't you take it back while it was under the 12 month warranty? Break in is only 5-10 tanks. As it was just worked on, take it back anyhow..

 

[GIZROID]

hard to start

I didn't take it back for two reasons A: the mechanic where i purchased the saw is incompetent as are all of the surrounding dealers according to people in the business. The dealer that I went to the other day is in another town and he was recommended to me by another tree company. After meeting this guy i wasn't very impreessed. So I am back to square 1 without a knowledgable servicing dealer. How do i convince them that there is a problem if he thinks that 9 pulls on a saw is acceptable?

 

[Rspike]

I didn't take it back for two reasons A: the mechanic where i purchased the saw is incompetent as are all of the surrounding dealers according to people in the business. The dealer that I went to the other day is in another town and he was recommended to me by another tree company. After meeting this guy i wasn't very impreessed. So I am back to square 1 without a knowledgable servicing dealer. How do i convince them that there is a problem if he thinks that 9 pulls on a saw is acceptable?

So you are saying this was a Stihl dealer ? or a hardware store selling chain saws ? :jester:

 

[GIZROID]

This is a Stihl dealer that also sells HUsky and Echo. They only sell lawnmowers and chainsaws. I heard that they are going out of business soon.

 

[carvinmark]

I just mailed one of my saws to a dealer 200 miles away so it can be diagnosed and repaired correctly, I too don't trust any of the local clowns with my babies.
Mark

 

[clearance]

The saw actually cuts ok when its warmed up? It has a decomp valve? Suck it up, no big thing. 8-9 pulls wahhhhhhh!

 

[treeclimber jul]

hard start

my 440 just started to do the same thing and my ms200t I always have to baby it to rev when cold. both dealers dont think any thing needs to be adj after breakin.

 

[Lakeside53]

my 440 just started to do the same thing and my ms200t I always have to baby it to rev when cold. both dealers dont think any thing needs to be adj after breakin.

Most Modern (past two or three years) saws don't require adjustment after break in. The factory has then set such that after break in, they just work better. Sometimes a sight adjustment of the L or LA screw is all that's required.

200T: I see this now and then, but usually it it's minor and only for a second or two after start. If it's really a problem, and you can't get it out with L adjustment, then a pressure test likely will be needed. If you dealer won't help, call Stihl. If you have the "D" version of the S61 carb, then it definitely shouldn't hesitate on acceleration.

MS440: Fix it now or pay later.... Open up the L screw on the MS440 a small amount. The idle will drop, so compensate with the LA screw. Make sure it accelerates normally from idle, and idles when hot. If you can't fix it with the L adjustment, it may be a symptom of a larger problem.

 

[manual]

It's not likely the plug. Air cleaners dirty or not have little to no effect on starting.

I can be the coil (which has a lifetime warranty). The coil is "smart" and retards the ignition and won't allow spark until you reach a certain rpm. Sometime it can get messed up and retards way too much. I seen one like this in two years. Make sure the coil/flywheel gap is correct - too wide and it will definitely be too retarded.

How much RPM are we talking about to allow spark?

 

[Lakeside53]

It's not likely the plug. Air cleaners dirty or not have little to no effect on starting.

I can be the coil (which has a lifetime warranty). The coil is "smart" and retards the ignition and won't allow spark until you reach a certain rpm. Sometime it can get messed up and retards way too much. I seen one like this in two years. Make sure the coil/flywheel gap is correct - too wide and it will definitely be too retarded.

[How much RPM are we talking about to allow spark?

There, I fixed your "quotes" for you.

I don't have a number, but it's pretty high. If you pull it over at a medium speed, it just won't spark. A good sharp pull is required to get it fast enough. I asked "why" and was told "lawyers"... No wrist snapping action allowed.. mutter mutter.. I did like the old 056 non-electronic ignitions... long slow pulls and tons of spark...

 

[Freakingstang]

Lake, if I can ask, is there a mag pick up to cotrol the spark output? If so, it is likely that the rpm is around`180rpm or so before It will fire.

My generatos operate the same way, but becuase they are diesel, there is no spark. Once the mag pick seems a signal of 180rpm or more, it send voltage to the controller to open the fuel pump actuator. This could very well be the same setup on the saw...has to see x rpm to allow coil to fire.

I understand the principle, but not on a saw....

 

[Lakeside53]

It's integral to the coil.. It's a lot higher than 180... guess I need to measure it now..

 

[manual]

It would work off of magnetic current.
Would it be to retard the ignition while starting it and then advancing it afterwards?

 

[Lakeside53]

yes...