Welcome new climber. I have to go with the mid-weight hiker crowd, but that's maybe because i've never tried Wesco's or other logger boots. I'm not a logger. I'm a climber.
I've tried many different boots, for a couple reasons. 1) Always looking for something that performs better, 2) not getting stuck on my own personal beliefs as 'truth' and 3) I just like field-testing different gear.
Most quality hiking boots that lend themselves well to climbing have some key features; Fiberglass shank (semi-stiff, foot-shaped plate molded into the sole) that allows you to stand comfortably on spurs, allows good toe-heel jamming in crotches, and prevents side-to-side cupping and trapping if you step into a tight V crotch. The plate should allow you to put your full weight on a point-source and that force will be distributed across the better part of the bottom of your foot. Without the plate point forces go right up into your foot and you can feel gravel through the bottom of your boots when you walk on it. The reason I'm detailing this key feature is that there are a lot of cheap-o boots out there that pass themselves off as hiking boots that should NOT be used for tree climbing. Boots are the only piece of gear in your collection that you use every second from the moment you leave your home until you get back.
Comfort and fit is important, so mail-ordering boots doesn't allow a try before you buy. You should grab the toe, grab the heel and twist as hard as you can. Stiff is good. Look at the heel: Does the heel do a 90 degree, right angle cut at the arch? the sole of your foot doesn't do a sharp, square angle, not does a limb, nor a rope. I have had much better performance with a nice, deep, molded curve in that mid-sole region, front to back. Good ones will also curve to the in-step and out-step, facilitating some good, righteous rope-grabbing with your boots ( aka footlocking). These curve mold onto limb faces with authority.
Ankle support is also important. Try on a pair, lace em up and roll your right foot to the right, and left foot to the left. Is there enough sidewall stiffness to stop the roll?
Availability is important. Can you get them locally?
GoreTex. Most higher end hikers have it, so it's a plus, especially if you work in wet conditions. Soaked feet tire more quickly than dry feet and tend to be more dry the next morning after a wet day.
I'm a fan of all-leather. Boots with plastic and cordura and any added stitching in the body will deteriorate more quickly. Less flash, more performance. Tree climbing is more abusive on boots than any other activity I can imagine, even worse than extreme hiking or adventure racing.
Vasque makes some very nice boots, I keep coming back to them for their awesome performance, comfort and durability. They're two-pair-a-year boots. Salomon, I have had some good climbing experience with, good comfort, but not so durable, they're three-pair-a-year boots, but available everywhere. Right now I'm absolutely thrilled with the boots I'm in, for their climbing performance, comfort, style, durability, ankle support, sole design and rubber sole compound. They're all-leather, gore-tex, available in sporting goods stores and they footlock as well as anything I've tried in the last decade. I'm wearing the boots that KY Sawyer is using, the Italian-design Garmonts, around $160. I rarely buy a new pair of boots that was identical to the previous pair I bought, but the Garmonts are everything I love in a technical climbing boot, spurs or no spurs. They love climbing trees, fresh out of the box, and seem to get better as the soles thin.
Like KF says, the insoles can be customized. Mine aren't custom like his, but I pull the stock insoles out and replace with cushy gel-soles. They make a difference.
Thor's Hammer has me intrigued with the HAIX boots. I may seek those out as I'm withing a month or two of needing a new pair
Hiking boots are NOT chainsaw protective. Self-vigilance is (needless to say) your responsibility.
Good luck, Noob. Glad to have you onboard.
