Help a New Guy Get Set Up

[Aggie Sawmiller]

Hey guys,

I've started my milling adventure- sort of. I have a 394xp on the way and now need to figure out my mill and bar set up. I can weld, so I will probably make my own mill. I have one main question regarding the mill:

It seems like it would be easier to use and set up a mill that bolted thru the bar rather than clamped onto it. Am I off base there? With that said, I assume bars are hardened tool steel, so I don't know how easy it would be to drill out two holes on them. Are there any secrets to drilling holes in bars for mills?

Thanks

 

[BobL]

Drilling holes in bars is a pretty common way of mounting bars on a CS Mill
For tips on drilling holes look here
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...es-in-bars-for-modified-alaskan-mills.174811/

For ideas of building CS mills look at the 4 mills listed in my signature - especially the BIL mill.

 

[Aggie Sawmiller]

Thanks so much! I have learned a lot on here and look to learn more!

 

[Aggie Sawmiller]

So I am trying to look at your homemade mills, but all I'm seeing is where the pictures are supposed to be - bummer. The pictures would say a thousand words...

Also,I'm pretty set on a .063 3/8" chain. I'm really hesitant to get a new 30" to 36" bar and then try to drill out the sprocket tip though. I'd hate to spend $90 on a bar and ruin the tip before I even used it. I guess I'll have to do it sooner or later anyway though...

 

[BobL]

So I am trying to look at your homemade mills, but all I'm seeing is where the pictures are supposed to be - bummer. The pictures would say a thousand words....

Oh crap, the pictures disappeared during the great site melt down a couple of years back and I spent ages re-inserting them and this is the first time I see they are not working. I just tested the links and the last 5 links still show pics although that stuff is pretty old now.

Also,I'm pretty set on a .063 3/8" chain. I'm really hesitant to get a new 30" to 36" bar and then try to drill out the sprocket tip though. I'd hate to spend $90 on a bar and ruin the tip before I even used it. I guess I'll have to do it sooner or later anyway though...

You can always start with a clamping system and then modify once you get sick of pulling the bar out of the mill to change chains.

Meanwhile here are a few pics of the BIL mill to wet your appetite.

 

[DaveLindsay]

Here is a couple of pictures of the mill I built over length is to accommodate a 42" bar and it's about 12" wide. The uprights are about 3.5' high and the base rails are drilled out to allow shorter bars to be used.
The uprights are 1" steel rod drilled and tapped for a 3/8" bolt to secure the bar and they are secured with dual grub screws. The base frame is made out of 1" box tube. The mill is quite heavy but incredibly robust. Feel free to copy it all the ideas for it came from this site.
Having seen BobL's bilmill up close it is an amazingly well designed and thought out mill.
Regards DaveL

 

[Aggie Sawmiller]

Thanks guys. The pictures definitely help. I'd like to see some close ups of bolt on locations thru the bars if you have any. I'm pretty set on drilling the bar, but I may just avoid the sprocket tip and drill further up on the bar for now. I don't see any 30" slabs in the near future, so I can probably stand to lose the width on capacity. (famous last words...)

 

[BobL]

Thanks guys. The pictures definitely help. I'd like to see some close ups of bolt on locations thru the bars if you have any. I'm pretty set on drilling the bar, but I may just avoid the sprocket tip and drill further up on the bar for now. I don't see any 30" slabs in the near future, so I can probably stand to lose the width on capacity. (famous last words...)

It is possible to safely drill right through the middle of the sprocket (its a hardened steel disc) using a drill 5/16" or smaller. I use a 1/4" cobalt or carbide bit. Even a new or freshly sharpened masonry bit will work. Ideally you need a drill press so you can use slow speed and high pressure with lots of lube.

Most of my bars have holes in the sprocket. The inboard end can sometimes be drilled with just a HSS bit.

Here's a picks.

This is a 25" bar - I drilled this so that I could keep the dogs on the saw.
The lower half of the bar clamp was thrown away and the SHS tube steel that was part of the original top half of the clamp was cut off and replaced with a sold 3/4 x 3/4" bar.
The Allen bolt then passes thru the bar and into a threaded hole in the sold bar above it.
The wheels are ol the end of a 1/2" rod and can be positioned above the bar for cutting the lower half of the log.
To mill the top half the wheels are positioned below the bar.



There are MANY bar mounting mechanisms available
Look at post number 25 in this thread http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/cs-milling-101-hints-tips-and-tricks.93458/page-2

 

[Aggie Sawmiller]

Thanks for the photos. Those help. Doesn't look too complicated, I guess you just have to make sure those nuts don't back off.

Got my 36" bar on the way, now it is just the chain and the mill I need. Getting close!

 

[BobL]

Thanks for the photos. Those help. Doesn't look too complicated, I guess you just have to make sure those nuts don't back off.

I use blue loctite, I'd use red but I sometimes swap bar sizes.

 

[Aggie Sawmiller]

BobL - your setup is outstanding!!! I think probably way out of my league for try #1...

DaveLindsay - I'm thinking your setup is more up my alley as far as fabrication ability. I definitely get how it all works, but I have a questions about one component. Looks like you have the 1" steel rods going thru some sleeves of some sort with the grub bolts threaded thru the sleeves and pinching and holding the rods so that the saw is at a consistent offset from the frame. What is that sleeve? Steel tube?

And a more broad question to all - It seems like there is probably a sleeve/internal rod combo that everyone must use when they make the up/down adjusters on mills. Is there a normal practice on what to use for these parts?

 

[BobL]

Thanks AggieS

And a more broad question to all - It seems like there is probably a sleeve/internal rod combo that everyone must use when they make the up/down adjusters on mills. Is there a normal practice on what to use for these parts?

It depends what is available in your area.

1" SHS tube with an 1/8" wall should fit inside 1 1/4" SHS sleeve except that the seam inside the large tube interferes with the smaller one. There are special SHS forms that have no seams but these may not be available in your area. I'm not a fan of SHS inners and sleeves as the grub screws tend to crush the inner tube Using a solid bar inner will not crush but adds weight.

FWIW this is why I went for a tube clamp (slit the sleeve lengthwise and weld tabs either slide of the slot and bolt )or in the case of the BIL Mill a cam base locking system. On the BIL mill there is the added complication that Al does not slide well on Al, so a PVC sleeve is incorporated in between the two - very fiddly.

 

[Aggie Sawmiller]

I hear ya on the inner tube eventually getting crushed from the grub screws clamping down on it over and over again.

I definitely like the tube clamp idea- that might be the way to go. I also saw a U-bolt setup on the alaskan MKIII that I think I could probably apply in my case.

 

[Iron.and.bark]

Meanwhile here are a few pics of the BIL mill to wet your appetite.


View attachment 495963

Any particular reason to milling that stag like this?

You aren't going to get the flame in the crotch wood milling it that way?

Nice setup as always.

 

[BobL]

Any particular reason to milling that stag like this?
You aren't going to get the flame in the crotch wood milling it that way?

Correct - look in this thread for what it was used for http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/nature-playground-milling.294273/

 

[Iron.and.bark]

Correct - look in this thread for what it was used for http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/nature-playground-milling.294273/

A clarification when you post that image, that this is not how one should mill a tree "fork", unless for a specific reason might be appropriate. Especially considering this thread was started by a " begginer"

Still nice a pic though.

 

[BobL]

A clarification when you post that image, that this is not how one should mill a tree "fork", unless for a specific reason might be appropriate. Especially considering this thread was started by a " begginer"

There may considerable sense in milling a log with a very large fork that way even when the fork timber is not retained.
If the fork is milled flat then is a greater chance of most of the middle slabs developing a crack down the middle of the fork.
If they are milled the other way this is greatly reduced.

 

[DaveLindsay]

BobL - your setup is outstanding!!! I think probably way out of my league for try #1...

DaveLindsay - I'm thinking your setup is more up my alley as far as fabrication ability. I definitely get how it all works, but I have a questions about one component. Looks like you have the 1" steel rods going thru some sleeves of some sort with the grub bolts threaded thru the sleeves and pinching and holding the rods so that the saw is at a consistent offset from the frame. What is that sleeve? Steel tube?

And a more broad question to all - It seems like there is probably a sleeve/internal rod combo that everyone must use when they make the up/down adjusters on mills. Is there a normal practice on what to use for these parts?

25mm solid steel rod with a 25mm steel tubing for the steel rod to move through make sure it is a really snug fit.

 

[Iron.and.bark]

There may considerable sense in milling a log with a very large fork that way even when the fork timber is not retained.
If the fork is milled flat then is a greater chance of most of the middle slabs developing a crack down the middle of the fork.
If they are milled the other way this is greatly reduced.

​

Sorry Bob your machine work is pro level, I always forget that you are an amateur timber miller (not having to make a living or at least some of your living craftwood milling).

Yes chances are it will split less. But.....

You don't get the "flame" or crotch wood grain.
If it splits Rip it down the centre. You can book leaf them. Ever seen a kitchen done with book leafed cupboard doors?

Figured timber sells quicker and for more (even when ripped down the guts/centre).

 

[BobL]

Sorry Bob your machine work is pro level, I always forget that you are an amateur timber miller (not having to make a living or at least some of your living craftwood milling).

Yeah definitely not making a living I'm retired and this is just one of many hobbies.
Anyway I was just being a difficult

Yes chances are it will split less. But.....
You don't get the "flame" or crotch wood grain.
If it splits Rip it down the centre. You can book leaf them. Ever seen a kitchen done with book leafed cupboard doors?

I've milled many a fork and do appreciate the grain - here's one from 2008.