HELP! Husky 50 at local pawn shop...

[mels]

'Mornin Gents.

Found a model 50, looks a little beat but started right up. Not a hi r screamer, but ran smooth at speed and idled well. I thought the 16" bar looked small on the saw, but looking at the specs ( Model Profile: 50 ) the longest bar is only a 20.

Question is, the guy had 190 on the tag, said he'd go 150. The top cover is cracked and I know I'd want a bigger bar which at 150 would put me in over 200 when I'm done. Worth it? Miss my old 40, and this isn't really a worthy replacement but she still has my interest.

I should probably just walk away...

Thoughts?

 

[lone wolf]

Past experience has taught me just save another 150 or so and buy a used 70 cc saw like a 044 Stihl or a 372 Husky.That saw aint nothin to write home about!

 

[nmurph]

I would stick with an 18" .325 combo...I would see if I couldn't get it for $135. You will be surprised how low you can get pawn shops if you play hardball. I bought a 394 that was marked $400 for $175 OTD. It was in pretty good shape and fired right up. Those shops make their money on paying very little to the people pawning. Then the pawners make a few payments and stop. The shop has the item, some cash from the payments, and don't need to sell the item for big money to make a good profit. They mark them high, but are always looking to deal. The one exception I see is in firearms, where they don't come off the asking price too much.

You can probably find a used cover for $20 or less, or use a soldering iron to weld the seam back together (turns out a strong bond if done right).

 

[huskydude]

150 is too much. If its beat I'd pay 100 tops. You know you'll end up putting money into it too.

 

[wyk]

I would go this way instead, Brother:

CHAINSAW jonsered CS 2152 C

 

[o8f150]

he is wanting to much for that saw

 

[mels]

Yup. I'm in agreement, just needed to hear it. I'll let the next guy have this one.
Thanks, fellas.

 

[Saw Dr.]

Is that a Husky 40 you are pining over? I know where there are a couple Husky 40's that are probably easy fixers.

 

[mels]

It is. A sweet little Husky 40 that I could probably get back from the friend I'd lent it to years ago, but he REALLY likes it and he's been a good friend so I'm reluctant to tell him to hand it over hahaha. That saw had some sentimental attachment, and is a super low-hour saw.

Bah, I don't need it.

 

[DEG305]

Hi, Brother, I cannot understand why some people borrow items and refuse to return them. I loaned a "friend" a good deer rifle and after baging a nice whitetail he sold the rifle "cus he needed christmas shopping money"

 

[hanniedog]

Was at my local dealer several days ago, they had a Husky 51 on the shelf for $160. Put in gas, oil and go cut wood.

 

[Roanoker494]

The husky 50/51/55 saws are ones that I just can not get a grasp of value. A burnt up one can bring as much as $100 on Ebay but at the same time a running saw will sale for the same price and a mint saw will sale for $250.......... I just don't get it.

$150 on a model 50 is a bit steep in my opinion, though if it was a nice looking 55 I would say go for it.

 

[tpope]

That's one to walk away from in my opinion. It was made cheap to sell cheap.

 

[Captain Crunch]

That's one to walk away from in my opinion. It was made cheap to sell cheap.

The 50, IMHO was not made cheap, by today's standards it is just short of pro saw. No plastic cases, vey rebuildable, not the most powerful. A good durable saw.

 

[tpope]

The 50, IMHO was not made cheap, by today's standards it is just short of pro saw. No plastic cases, vey rebuildable, not the most powerful. A good durable saw.

The wood type screws through the carb and into plastic kinda did me in.

 

[Saw Dr.]

The coarse carb screws are just fine if you back 'em off before winding them back in. The thing that gets me on this series is the crank driven oilers. It is very aggravating to me when a saw puts out a pool of oil if left running for a few minutes (while you move brush, etc..)

 

[Roanoker494]

The wood type screws through the carb and into plastic kinda did me in.

Drill the intake and install a set of Stihl carb studs, on to the next issue. BTW, I have never had a issue with the plastic intakes myself.

The coarse carb screws are just fine if you back 'em off before winding them back in. The thing that gets me on this series is the crank driven oilers. It is very aggravating to me when a saw puts out a pool of oil if left running for a few minutes (while you move brush, etc..)

I will admit that the oil pump is a PITA. The pumps seem to be set on the "make a huge mess" setting and the plastic gear in the pump can be troublesome, matter of fact the whole plastic pump assembly can cause headache.

 

[rmihalek]

I got a straight-gassed Husky 50 for free from our auto mechanic. I put a big bore kit on it, which I think only bumps it up from 49cc to 53 cc or something like that; not a huge gain. Anyway, after a few tanks of fuel to break it in, it's a great saw. It's become my "go-to" saw for trail maintenance since it's pretty light but still has decent power. I'm running 3/8ths on it, but just got a .325 rim, so I can see how it does with some .325 chain.

Also, it's still totally stock, not even a muffler mod! I'd like to get the squish machined, cylinder ported & decked and a MM to see how that wakes it up.

Bob

 

[tpope]

Drill the intake and install a set of Stihl carb studs, on to the next issue. BTW, I have never had a issue with the plastic intakes myself.



I will admit that the oil pump is a PITA. The pumps seem to be set on the "make a huge mess" setting and the plastic gear in the pump can be troublesome, matter of fact the whole plastic pump assembly can cause headache.

Ahh plastics... cheap way out... enjoy.. I walk away.

Never mind me.. I'm just into real metal