Help-saw not running

[TomH-356]

I have a Sears Craftsman 16 inch, 2.2 CU IN chainsaw.

I recently paid to have Sears install a new clutch and tune up. It ran great for about 60-90 minutes and then TOTALLY DIED.

I no longer have the owners manual/book for it.

Chainsaw is about 2-3 years old (I bought it new).

I just removed the carb, blew out all the lines with air compressor, re-installed and it started right up(after a few pulls)...then, it died (TOTALLY DIED) in about 3-4 minutes of use.

Spark plug is new and looks very good.

If I put the lock on the throttle (wide open) it will start and run for a short time.

There are two adjust ment screws, I think the one on the left is for air - as I screw it in, the idle increases...although now, I can not keep it running long enough to do this. Also, I have no idea what the adjustment screw on the right is for.

What is a good base-point to start for the adjustments. ?

I am in dire need of some help and/or suggestion.

Thanks in advance.
Tom Hudson
Flint, Michigan

 

[user 2993]

Hi, Tom.
Welcome! If both the screws you refer to are in the base of the carb, then the one you adjusted is the idle mixture screw. It controls the amount of fuel at idle. The other one does the same, but at full throttle. For an initial setting, screw them both in all the way, but GENTLY. Then turn them out each one full turn.
This probably won't solve the problem, but it's the starting point for the carb adjustments.
Is it possible that when you blew out hoses,etc, that you blew some crud into the carb? Kinda sounds like the needle sticking open and flooding the engine.
Good luck,
George

 

[Fish]

Look for a small tag and post the Craftsman model #s.
I want to see if it has the external impulse line on it which causes
many problems.

 

[TomH-356]

Hi Folks,
Thanks much for the replies back.

I don't think I blew any crud into the carb..but, it is possible. The carb and "carb area" was pretty much spotless...but, the outside of the saw was "a mess".....as, that gave me the idea to blow it all out.

Any suggestions on how to recognize the needle ?....so that I can take a look and clean or blow it out ?

I have a very very good digital camera, I can take a picture of the carb and post on a web site of mine (or email directly) for clarification on my end.

From the tag on saw:
1997 CALIFORNIA
FAMILY: VPW042UB24RA:EM
DISP: 36CC 07:14
Serial #: 97196N70C289
Model #: 358 352161

I readjusted the screws ...all the way in and one turn out....it "kind of" wanted to start... I then tried the choke, no luck, I then went to the throttle lock (wide open) and it started for....2-3 seconds and died.

Now, my arms are too sore to pul any more - I need a break.

Thanks Much - GREATLY appreciated,
Tom

 

[tony marks]

my guess is a pluged fuel filter,, or a diaphram or other air leak.

 

[TomH-356]

Hi Tony, thanks for the input.

Yesterday, I fished the fuel filter out of the tank, took it off and...am able to blow thru it.....a bit of fuel in the mouth - no fun at all.....I reattached and put it back in the tank.

Can you help me with a description of the diaphram ?.....what it looks like, how I can check it or replace it...and/or, how can I verify an air leak ?

Thanks in advance,
Tom Hudson
Flint, MI

 

[TomH-356]

Thanks Rocky, I appreciate your honesty...and, any WAG's

I just got the saw back from Sears Service Center.... I'll stop by there tomorrow and see if there is any kind of warranty..etc.

I just paind around $70.00 (labor) and $40.00 (parts).....kind of a bummer, as, I can buy a new Sears saw for that kind of money.

I was hoping someone could walk me thru some basic diagnosis and maybe have some patience with me.

It seems like if I can rebuild a 1978 alfa romeo motor, a 1963 Porsche 356 motor and a 1977 Mini Cooper motor...that I might be teachable on some basics with the chainsaw.

http://www.embarassingmoments.com/356/toms 356.htm

http://www.embarassingmoments.com/Mini/Teris_Mini.htm

Thanks,
Tom Hudson
Flint, MI

 

[Mike mandry]

Tom, Brian is right. I know this is probably not what you want to hear, but we are all here to help.

I have a 20" Poulan 2750 that I bought as a backup for my 30 year old Homelite SXL. Sears sells this same saw, and I can tell you it is 100% throwaway junk. I have probably cut 3 or 4 cords with it, and the cylinder is already showing wear. My SXL is still going strong after 33 years.

I am by no means a "Pro" saw user, just a weekend warrior. But, I know a quality saw & yours is not one of them. Most of the guys here have way more experience than I do.

If you can afford to restore a Porsche, then you can afford a good quality saw.

I don't mean to sound judgemental, but.............

I would not invest one more dime in that thing unless you are going to do it yourself. The so-called "Techs" at sears are not even qualified to sharpen a chain, neverless put one on right.

I would bet they dont even know how to rebuild a carb, just sell you a new one for $85 + $65 labor.

I would even be more than happy to look at it myself & fix it for you. But, you would be better of to put it on ebay, and get a decent saw for your money.

I am sure everyone here would be more than happy to recomend a saw for you.

Just my 3 cents worth.

Mike

 

[cbfarmall]

Rocky,

Not all Craftsman saws stuff are junk. My dad uses an older Craftsman which is nearly identical to a Dolmar 3700. After installing new rings, opening the muffler, and putting a decent loop of chain on it runs much better.

Doesn't hold a candle to my Stihls, though.

I was working on a Craftsman the other day matching TomH's description, and it is a pretty sorry saw. Still kind of ticked my off that the owner was using drain oil for lubricant and was probably mixing with his gas too.

Chris B.

 

[TomH-356]

I started the day with a root-canal...took the rest of the day off work.

I dropped the saw off at Sears this morning. It was written up as a "recall", that is no-charge....it fell under the Sears 90 day guarantee.

Last year I cut and gave away a minimum of 15 truck loads (pickup truck) of wood, cut at 15-16" each for use in a wood burner stove. Then, we cut and filled one dump truck full too. This was all red-oak, white-oak and ash.

I cleared a lot for a buddy before he builton it...a bunch of nasty brush, no big trees. ...not to mention, countless fishing/camping trips and helping others cut-up-wood at their homes when they have had downed limbs..etc.

Consumers Energy came out last week and cut down a couple more trees ~ 110 foot oaks....that is what I am currently working on...and, they trimmed out some other oaks around our house.

Basically, I've used the snot out of this saw for 2 1/2 years without much of a problem. If it gives up the ghost now - well, I've gotten my use and $$ out of it.

I would be open to suggestions on a good saw to keep an eye out for at garage sales, or at a local "independent shop"...my buddy picked up a nice Homelite XL for $40.00, it sounds like a Ferrari compared to my Sears saw He said the same guy has used saws....he is going to check at his shop, as it is not close to me and is more in his neck of the woods.

.....off to find some non-chew-required food (post root-canal diet).

Thanks,
Tom Hudson
Flint, MI

 

[timberwolf]

By your posts it sounds like you use a saw enough to justify spending a few bucks on a saw that will last you for years. You also sound as if you are the type that wan't to pick up a saw a go out cutting with out having to mess with the saw.

Many if not most of the saws that can be found in isle 6 between the BBQ's and fishin gear are just not designed to last more than 50-100 hours. To top that off parts and after sales service are next to non existaint. Quite often they just swap on a refurbished powerhead. Beyond that you would be just as far ahaed to give the saw to the kid next door to fix.

Look for a dealer, Stihl, Husky, Johnsred. or a small handfull of others that make real tools... Decide what you will be doing most with the saw and go talk to them. Even if the price is a bit steap (300-500$) compaired to the department store you now are talking about a saw that could last 10-20 times longer.

By used if you must, but you risk getting someone else's headache and will pee away time and money trying to get it fixed. In the end you might not save anything but waste a bunch of time trying to.

If you wan't to make a saw last check out the stuff on filing. Next to making sure you mix the gas and have the mixture right it is likely the most importaint factor in saw life expectancy.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Tom, this is your chance to move on up to a Sthil! An 026 sounds like the perfect saw for you. If you want a little more ass-end, you might want a 038. If you really want to cut some cords, an even better choice would be an 044! But, that saw is a little big and may not be the best for you.

The 026 is probally your best bet - have fun!

 

[Stumper]

There are so many choices and every brand has some relative dogs in their line. My list of brands to look for in order of preference.

Dolmar/Makita
Husqvarna
Jonsered
Echo
Stihl
Solo
Poulan Pro
Shindaiwa

Depending on the size of saw and particular model(s) being considered the order might change. What size saw are you looking for? Your present saw is rather small. If you are looking for something similar in size. Echo's 3450 would be excellent. So would a Husky 40/140. Factory reconditioned Poulan Pros are available very cheaply. I don't have any experiece to speak of with their little saws but the midsize Poulan Pro 330 is an excellent performer and an excellent value for money.

 

[geofore]

sears saws

Check the fuel line for cracks and air leaks. The saws cost more to fix than they cost new and they are not meant to last. I have fixxed a few and would not buy one myself. For use you got out of it you're ahead so go get a Solo or Husky that will last longer. More money but better saws by far.

 

[TomH-356]

Got my Sears saw back today at lunch time, I'll give it a try this evening...they said it was just carb adjustment...we'll see how it goes.

I priced some Stihl saws on lunch break today....are these good prices or should I keep shopping ?

model price
180C 150.00
250 269.00
280 399.00

Thanks in advance,
Tom
Flint, MI

 

[jokers]

Hi Tom,

The price on the 180 is good but the other prices are about standard.

Before I`d spend $399 on a 280 I would buy a 260, a proven reliable and reasonably strong running 3 cube saw. i also hear that the 260 is being phased out so now might be the last chance to buy a Stihl classic.

Russ

 

[SilverBlue]

Originally posted by jokers
Hi Tom,

The price on the 180 is good but the other prices are about standard.

Before I`d spend $399 on a 280 I would buy a 260, a proven reliable and reasonably strong running 3 cube saw. i also hear that the 260 is being phased out so now might be the last chance to buy a Stihl classic.

Russ

Ha ha Russ, verrry funny. You are joking right? or should we be lining up at the dealer now?

 

[timberwolf]

Jokers said it, I won't repeat it.

Looks like the 260 is just under the 400.00 US mark online, up here it's 600 CDN with a case, extra chain, tool kit, hat ect..

 

[SilverBlue]

Well if they do phase out the 260 then it's time to look at a Husky or a Dolmar I guess.