hi speed carb adj 026,How fast can I go ?

[4pwr]

Ican move the hi speed adg srew on my 026 and make it run faster. Is this safe or should I cut it back some? Do not get me wrong,I am happy with the saw. I am just wondering is it safe to tune it to the highest rpms I can get? Or should I be happy with cutting it back a notch?

 

[Stihl 041 super]

The high revs and leaness of the high revs will wear your engine out way faster than with a richer setting. So what you should do is set the engine on the H screw (turn it counterclockwise) so that the engine four cycles ( meaning not clean but not too rich) In the cut the saw will clean up and run great unless theres other issues. I dont think you will see a power difference between the four cycling setting and the leaner cleaner running setting ( no load) and (lots of load). Good luck.

 

[12guns]

No torque difference? I always adjusted the high jet right about the middle between too rich and too lean. sometimes even toward the lean side. I realize it's running faster and hotter, but seems to me you'll loose alot of power if you adjust it a touch too rich...Maybe something I need to try...Explain yourself a little more. For a smaller saw, It would stand to reason rpm's are a good thing, your saying they're not needed to get the best performance out of your saw?

 

[Fish]

At the Stihl school, {aluminum level}, they take a good running saw out to the woodpile and adjust the carb until it seizes. You can do this with a new saw with an adjustable carb. You richen the mix to slow the thingdown.
Many a last word said over a saw was/is, "wow, she was really running great!"

 

[TimberPig]

You also lose power if it is too lean, but you risk burning it it up. If the saw is too rich, you are unlikely to do anything more damaging than fouling a spark plug. It is better to err on the side of caution by being slightly rich, than to risk burning it up if you are running too lean. Unless you don't like your saw and are trying to blow it up.

 

[West Texas]

I adjust the H jet on my 026 when its in the cut of a big log. A friend of mine takes the screwdriver while I hold it in the cut; and, he adjusts the H jet for max performance, torque, etc. by listening to the saw and watching it cut, while I hold it down in the cut at max throttle. A lot depends on whether you've modified the muffler and what elevation you are. I prefer this technique to using a tach, etc. rpms are not the issue for me, its performance in the cut without bogging down that matters. I'm convinced this is the right place for the H jet setting.

Speed of the chain is also a function of bar length and sprocket choice. The 026 is my limbing saw and it runs fast with a 16" bar; although some run an 18 or 20 inch bar and chain. Increasing the bar and chain length do not increase the horse power; and, it slows down the speed of the chain.

 

[4pwr]

What is rich and what is lean. Is clockwise on the screw rich and counter lean? Should I turn the screw to max rpm and then cut it back say 10 percent ?

 

[Lakeside53]

Two ways :

1) Use a tach and just set the top end for about 12,500 (the book says higher, but at no load we are talking about a hair of adjustment) and just forget about it. If the carb/saw is in good shape, this will be less then 1/8 turn in from Standard (1 turn out). If you're not getting the right RPM within 1/8 turn of Standard, look for other problems in the saw.

2) Second, set the H 1 turn out. Warm up the saw, full throttle and turn the H screw in until the "burble" just disappears, then turn it back until it just burbles again. The "sound" of the saw at no load is not indicator of how it cuts on the wood. Err on the rich side - it will cut just as good as it can and last longer. Go to Madsens web site - they have a great tutorial on tuning carbs and a sound file so you can hear it.

If you lack the experience to set the saw by ear, and don't have a tach, just set it 1 turn out... or soon I'll be able to sell you a new cylinder and piston set

 

[12guns]

rich is more gas in the mix, lean is less gas...It would stand to reason that if you're too lean (not enough gas) you don't get as good of an explosion and thus loose power. if your too rich, you won't run right and thus also loose power. From what i've read here, I'm gonna set mine dead in the middle and see how it does. I may even richen' it a bit and see how it cuts. my muffler is modded, so I'll be interesting seeing where it cuts the best.

 

[Lakeside53]

What is rich and what is lean. Is clockwise on the screw rich and counter lean? Should I turn the screw to max rpm and then cut it back say 10 percent ?

Clockwise (In) is lean - you are shutting OFF the fuel. Out is Richer (opening up the fuel). See my prior post on the way to set the H end. 10% doesn't mean you get anywhere close to the correct setting.

 

[TimberPig]

Rich is when you are running too much fuel in your air/fuel mix, lean is the oppostie. Rich leads to incomplete combustion, plug fouling, but will not burn up your saw. Lean fuel air mixtures increase the temperature of combustion, often to the point where the piston starts to melt and the saw will overheat and seize the piston and/or crankshaft. You do not want to burn your saw up I assume? If you want to keep it running, do not run it lean. Clockwise leans the mixture out, counterclockwise richens it.

There are only 2 ways to properly tune a saw carb, a tach or by an experienced ear. Using a tach, you set it to a max rpm figure given by the manufacturer or slightly lower. By ear, you have to listen to how it responds to the throttle and how it pulls the chain in the cut. You want the saw to to burble slightly or "4 stroke" when revved up out of the cut. This indicates the mixture is slightly rich, but when cutting the added load will increase the engine's demand for fuel, making it lean out to the proper air fuel mixture.
If you are unsure of how to properly set the carb, I would suggest you enlist the help of someone with more experience before you burn up your saw. Alternatively, you can learn how yourself. Try the following link, it may help http://www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm

 

[Stihl Crazy]

The stihl tech rep for our area told all our crews to set 026/260 at 15,000 rpm. I have a 260 set at 15,500. Has over 2000 tanks put through it. It is used daily for logging. Trees are 1-2 feet in diameter. Saw is 4 years old, all original motor. I have tested saws for a local dealer. 026's set at 16,500 rpm and used them for a summer with no failure. The only warning on a 026 or any small saw, do not run it dull. I also race 260 stihls and even stock they cut quicker at 15,000 than at 13-14,000.

 

[Lakeside53]

The stihl tech rep for our area told all our crews to set 026/260 at 15,000 rpm. I have a 260 set at 15,500. Has over 2000 tanks put through it. It is used daily for logging. Trees are 1-2 feet in diameter. Saw is 4 years old, all original motor. I have tested saws for a local dealer. 026's set at 16,500 rpm and used them for a summer with no failure. The only warning on a 026 or any small saw, do not run it dull. I also race 260 stihls and even stock they cut quicker at 15,000 than at 13-14,000.

I think I'll have my stihl rep talk to your stihl rep! We set MS200T
s like that, but not 26/260's! I'd like to get more than one summer out of saw anyhow

heck, if you want to cut faster, just sharpen the chain or get a bigger saw, preferably both.

 

[Stihl Crazy]

We are also testing redmax 5000's. The oldest is 2 years old and has been set at 16,500 rpm since new. It has 1500 tanks on it now and it may be the toughest small saw available today. I know many won't agree with what I say or even believe it, so if you are ever in my area feel free to come run my saws and see for yourself.

 

[4pwr]

Thank you guys as always. It seems no matter what is asked for the thousandth time you guys are kind and answer them. How come this is true on every outdoor board I visit. Hunting,fishing,reloading,etc. It seems everyone is patient and nice. Realy gives me reason to love the outdoors and the people I meet.Thank`s,

 

[Stihl 041 super]

12 guns I was just saying the same thing as you were. I was meaning to set the saw right in the middle between lean and rich meaning four cycling. The madsens website tells you to set the saw to fourcycle with no load. Ive noticed with my 041 aveq and my 041 ave super that i get alot more tourque
when i set the saw to fourcycle no load than to run clean no load.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Ben Walker had the best idea IMO, which is to do timed cuts in a log, adjusting the carb as you go. When you get the fastest cut, then tach it and make a note of the RPM for easy re-setting to that RPM.
You should find the fastest cutting somewhat richer than the factory maximum setting.
If you haven't figured it out, running the saw too lean (too fast an RPM) can quickly destroy the saw motor.