Homelite Super 2 - runs awful... help!?

Brent · Jun 2, 2003

Hi all,

I've inherited my grandpa's 70's vintage Super 2. It would start, but not run right, seemed always to be flooding itself no matter how the mixture adjustment was done... Also it would stall if you tilted the saw either way to the side. I did a carb rebuild and it ran better for a bit, but before long it was the same thing. Put another carb kit in it last week, and that didn't change it at all.

The one I have has a Walbro HDC-57 carb in it. It starts fine, but then quickly starts bogging down. Has to have full throttle (and no choke) to run, it won't make enough rpm's to engage the clutch, but it will run like that indefinately. When the gas tank is nearing empty, it picks up rev's and runs great for about 20 seconds. Fill tank and it's back to lousy/flooding.

Any thoughts?? Were these things (either the saw or this carb) notoriously awful? I've got an old XL-12, but the super 2 would make a great little pruning/limbing saw if it ran OK. I told my dad about this, and he just smiled and then confessed he could never get it running right either (hence it appeared on my doorstep)!

Made me laugh.
Some heirloom! I was tempted to leave it beside the garage last night (pick up day is today you know)!

thanks for any help you can offer!

Brent

Brent · Jun 3, 2003

After reading the thread below, I'm wondering whether that might be my problem too! I was careful about putting the carb back together the same way that I found it, but maybe the gasket and diaphram were reversed before I got the saw. I was sure the spring was nicely closing the new needle, but I'm not sure that the gasket didn't go on after the diaphram!

Brent

BillW · Jun 3, 2003

What seem like a carb problem is likely an air leak at the crankshaft seals.
A quick check is to move the crank sideways...if it moves more than a 1/8" your thrust washers & seals need replacing.
There is a rebuild kit for the Super2 that includes the bronze Thrust Washers, Piston Ring and crank Seals for $19.95.
A quick, simple job that will renew the power & improve carburation.

Brent · Jun 3, 2003

Thanks for the reply Bill, I'll check the play. But, if it's an air leak at the crank seal, wouldn't it go lean (not way rich)?

Brent

BillW · Jun 3, 2003

Brent
... I was sure the spring was nicely closing the new needle, but I'm not sure that the gasket didn't go on after the diaphram!

The main Diaphragm that works the needle goes on last, the other one goes on first.
To check for needle seal use a pressure gauge ...shld be able to hold 4-5 bs of pressure

Brent · Jun 8, 2003

Hi all,

Just thought I'd post an update. The diaphram and gasket were NOT in the wrong way around... but while I was going throught the carb (again), I noticed that the end of the pivot that activates the needle valve was sitting up a bit high. This would mean that when assembled, the diaphram was always pushing on it and holding the needle open. I tweeked it 'til it was about level with the machined surface of the carb, and now, it runs like a champ. The only other thing I noticed was that the muffler was carboned up. Did a bit of cleaning, and ran the next size up of drill bit through about 8 of the holes to let it breath a bit.

I haven't had a chance to cut anything with it yet, but it seems to be running way snappier than I've ever seen it run! Maybe it'll be a useful little saw yet.

Thanks for those that reponded to my post!

Brent