Homelite Super EZ auto driving me crazy

[isawben]

A few months ago, I bought a Homelite SEZ auto, and have been having issues getting it to run well. It’s dirty, but in beautiful shape, and can’t have too many hours on it. I cleaned it, and put a carb kit in and fired it up, and it ran well. A few weeks later, when I went to use it to cut up a dead pine, it was a pain to start, and when it started, it would almost idle, but when you squeezed the throttle, nothing would happen. I could get it up to full speed by fluttering the throttle, but even then it wasn’t running well. It has beautiful blue spark, it’s getting fuel, and I’ve reset the carb to 3/4 turn L and 1 turn out H. I’ve tried switching plugs, same problem. I’m running fresh 40:1 in it, and have cleaned the fuel filter. Has anybody experienced this before with a SEZ? Any ideas are appreciated.

 

[cscltd]

Compression?
unscrew muffler bolts and check piston. Could be scored. Post pics

 

[Pioneer]

These saws are a little high strung and the tuning can change from day to day. the high and low on my sample are both sitting around 3/4 turn out, so yours should be in the ballpark. Not unusual to require 8-10 pulls to start if its been sitting for a few weeks, they have to draw fuel from a slightly longer line as their tanks are not right below the carb.
If your low needs a couple of turns out to keep it running, there is a problem with your carb or you have an air leak. Stay away from ethanol gas, it can stiffen the carb diaphragms up in short order and cause a lean running problem.
Check your carb bolts are snug, the gasket may have settled. Dont crank the bolts down too tight though as this can ruin the reed block.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Have a look at the exhaust side skirt, if that checks out, richen both screws to 1&1 or even both at 1&1/4 and try again. It’s likely an air leak somewhere. You’ll need to pressure and vacuum test everything.

 

[isawben]

Compression checks out at a healthy 170psi. I forgot to mention, but I also removed and flipped the reed valves. When I did so, I reused the original gaskets because they looked to be in good shape. I’ll try replacing them, and see if that helps. Also, I do not own a pressure/vac tester, if there are any other ways to check for an air leak.

 

[isawben]

 

[Old2stroke]

If reed valves aren't closing properly, it won't idle worth a damn and you will be getting a lot of spit-back from the carb.

 

[Alaskan Stihl]

I have a Homelite EZ and when I got it, it would not start at all. After conducting a Carburetor Job, I discovered that the whole inside of the Carburetor was Varnished over (someone let it sit too long on the shelf).

Anyway, I cleaned all that out and got it to run (and idle), although I had to cut my own gasket for the carburetor (kind of a pain, but got it done).

Ok, here is what I noticed about mine:
For a perfect start, I need to…
#1. Turn on the Power Switch (very important…because if I pull the cord a few times before realizing this…it floods and is a nightmare to start)!
#2. Next, Pull the Choke out 100%
#3. Engage the Trigger 100% and lock it in place by depressing the “Throttle Hold Button”.
#4. Yank on the starter cord until it sputters.
#5. Then, push on the choke back in 50% and yank the starter cord. (Important…need to push in only 50% otherwise it floods & dies…then is a pain to restart)!
#6. After 3-4 pulls, it will start. I immediately depress the Trigger and manually throttle the trigger to keep it running. I keep it running for a short bit until it warms up and idles on it own.
#7. Finally, after it warms up…good to go! It doesn’t seem to have any problems shutting it down and restarting it after that!

I know…Sounds Normal Start Procedures Right?

Here is the catch!

I highly agreee with one of the comments above which states that these saws are mighty fussy! If I forget to turn in the Power Switch and try to start it….I am screwed (It floods and is a pain to get started). If I run it out of gas…same story….very difficult to start and got to flutter the trigger to keep it going until it warms up. Also, if I push the choke right in (without allowing it to warm up at 50%), then it might flood out and die…and then very difficult to restart…

The good news, is if I follow the steps to start it correctly as mentioned above..it starts right up, idles like it should and runs like a top.

Good luck!

 

[isawben]

I tried the steps recommended, and she fired right up, and is running beautifully. Thank you. This is my first Homelite, and I’m definitely learning just how finicky they can be.

 

[Alaskan Stihl]

AWESOME!

Now some more good news…whenever I screw up and don’t follow the steps…I have found that I have (2) choices to get it started:

#1. Set the saw down and grab a different saw to use. Let it sit for a couple of hours and then come back to it and go through the Starting Process all over.
#2. Remove the Spark Plug (careful taking the boot off as to not tear out the plug wire) and I use my small propane torch to heat up the end of the Plug to burn off any Gasoline. Next, reinstall the plug and follow previous instructions. Note that it will usually take a good 15 pulls to get it to fire.

As mentioned, once it warms up…not a problem…dang thing will fire right up each time!

ALSO (sorry forgot to mention in the original post) after turning on switch…then pulling out choke 100%… “I will engage the trigger and lock it it place”….then I will pull the start cord etc…

*Note that I edited my original post to include those extra steps….but it sounds like you figured it out anyway…

good luck!