Homelite XL Questions Please

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roosterhog

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Hey guys. I kept my chainsaw acquisition disorder in remission for almost a year but now I am in full relapse.

Picked up a Homelite XL for 20 bucks at a local pawn. 10 inch bar. Would barely run so I put a carb kit in. Runs better, but is hard to start, won't idle consistently, and bogs down when it idles for a few seconds when you open the throttle wide open. You could most likely go out and cut wood with it, but you'd be in a bad mood all day of fiddling with it and keeping it revved up.

Here are some facts and questions. Hopefully you guys can perhaps line me out:
-It has a walbro carb, but only one mixture screw. This would be for low speed only, right?
-Acresnet says the saw calls for a champion DJ7 Y or RDJ-7J spark plug. It came with a DJ6 when I acquired it. Which one does it need and could the DJ6 plug I have in there now be part of my problem?
-It is missing the duckbill flapper in the oil tank, but it oils just fine. Does that affect the running or just oiling?
-It also has a cracked gas cap and the fuel check valve is missing from the fuel tank. I wanted to make sure the thing was going to run good before I replaced all that. Will that affect the running or just make a mess by leaking fuel. I guess the better question would be is does the fuel system have to be sealed?
-I'm pretty sure this is a 1977 year model. Has 1977 stamped all over it on parts and stuff.
-When the thing dies while I'm adjusting on it, it is really hard to start. I've had the reprime it by squirting fuel mix back into the carb in order to crank it back up.
-When I removed the carb for rebuild, the intake and reed valve assembly was stuck to the carb. I decided not to replace those gaskets. They looked good. Also, it was a minor kit I rebuilt with - it didn't have the needle valve with it. The original needle did look good though.
-I put a new fuel filter and air filter on it.
-I have gotten it to idle for extended periods, but when I rev it up, it will usually die or almost die. It seems to do better when you slowly get back into the throttle versus immediately opening wide opening.
-Seems to have good compression, however, I must admit the air filter was missing when I bought it.

Sorry to have written an essay on here. Any thoughts or clues would be greatly appreciated. I hate it when I can't get them to run right. Causes me to actually lose sleep. Thanks and God bless!
 
The DJ6 plug is a dab cold but not that much so I doubt it contributes to your trouble.

However, the missing duckbill in the oil tank line allows the engine to suck air and/or bar oil so, yes, you really, really need that.

A lot of those little Homies have the fixed high speed jet but they usually run just fine.
 
67L36 driver:

Great to hear from you. I was hoping you were still around. You've lined me out in the past and I appreciate.

I forgot I had ordered some of those duck bill valves in the past and, amazingly, I was able to find them. I feel pretty dumb asking this question, but do they just slip OVER or INTO the oil line? I guess the big end of the duck bill goes over the end of that oil line in the oil tank?

Thanks!
 
Normally the duckbill fits over a 3/8" length of sintered bronze tubing and the tubing slips inside the oil line. The porus bronze allows you to adjust how much or how little pressure the engine can supply to the oil tank by exposing more/less bronze fitting with the hose.

Just use a short piece of tubing for now to 'adapt' the duckbill to the hose.

When done running the saw remember to loosen the oil cap to 'burp' the pressure. Otherwise, he will continue to oil the workbench or garage floor.
 
Good to know about the burping. I was able to locate that connector piece you mentioned online. I'm going to order a couple. Thanks again!
 
I have one of those sitting in the shed, it was my fathers... but I could never get it to run right. It always seemed like it was running too rich and no way to adjust the high speed.
I was thinking of trying to track down a service manual but never got around to it. It only has "Homelite XL" for a model number. Is that enough of a model number to find the correct manual?

Thanks...
 
67L36Driver is The Bomb. I put the connecter piece and the duckbill on the little Homie and it runs like a champ now.

Now I feel ok about getting a few more parts for it: a replacement for the lost chain tensioner screw and a new gas cap, new chain, etc.

The recoil doesn't really retract like it should. You can jiggle it a few times and it draws the rope back in, but aggravating. I wonder if it just needs cleaning? What can I expect when I remove that single screw that holds the starter spring and rope in place? Will it swarm?

Also, the gas tank has a vent hole near the top that is supposed to have a rubber type pressure/vacuum vent. I have seen the replacement part number as 08819, but can't find one anywhere. Other parts lists just show using the oil tank duck bill valve (69451) in the gas tank as well. Any advice here? Will the duck bill valve work?

Thanks again.

Monday morning 1/27/14 edit: An update on the recoil starter. The rope was too fat and not allowing proper rewinding. Not sure if the previous owner put too big of a rope on it or the rope swelled because it had so much oil on it. I ordered some smaller rope. The recoil spring did swarm on me when I removed the starter drum. Dedgummitt.
 
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