Homelite XL2 Oiler problem

[ManicMechanic]

My saw stopped oiling,I have took off the bar and didnt see anything that would have clogged it but i cleaned it off anyway,I dumped out the oil tank and cleaned it out with gas,removed the in tank filter and cleaned it,found what is called a duckbill valve in the bottom of tank and installed it on the top hose right inside under the cap,removed the pump diaphram cover that sits behind the clutch and cleaned,it looked great anyway,Restart,same thing smoky,bar oil out the exhaust,no oil on chain,I need Help here,I unhooked all hoses and blew thru,Restart,same problem,any ideas??

 

[PES+]

You most likely have the two hoses swapped...reverse them at either end

 

[ManicMechanic]

You most likely have the two hoses swapped...reverse them at either end

nope took 1 off at a time,been there done that!!

 

[PES+]

*sigh*...let me do a search

 

[ManicMechanic]

*sigh*...let me do a search

Thanks!! It's got me puzzled,The saw worked great in every aspect,and I feel I have gotten everything spotless!

 

[PES+]

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=39538

If that doesn't cover it let me know

 

[ManicMechanic]

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=39538

If that doesn't cover it let me know

Touches on a few things,That duckbill valve was in the bottom of the tank,and i did put it back on,I even ran the saw with my finger pressing on that hose,didnt matter,but their is something of interest here,The sleeve that goes inthe same hose before the duckbill,or do you have to have both,I dont recall seeing a sleeve, I have another xl2,that doesnt have a duckbill in the hose (could be in the bottom of tank),oils fine!

 

[PES+]

Then you have the duck bill in backwards....the little flap end faces into the tank....I use hobby store brass tubing to put the pressure line on on the outside and the duckbill over the end of it inside the tank

 

[ManicMechanic]

Then you have the duck bill in backwards....the little flap end faces into the tank....I use hobby store brass tubing to put the pressure line on on the outside and the duckbill over the end of it inside the tank

Thanks I'll check that out,seems the duckbill is designed to go only one way,and as for the brass tube,I dont seem to have that,probably lost in the cleaning process,I currently have the vavle in the hose without the sleeve,I will get a sleeve!

 

[JohnL]

If I'm thinking correctly...the sleeve is porous, it bleeds off excess pressure. Last time I checked they were available on-line for a few dollars.

 

[lesorubcheek]

It sounds like you've got the correct hose for the duckbill. There should be a little round metal porous sleeve at the end of the oil line and the duckbill slips over this with about 1/16" or so of the porous sleeve exposed. The lips of the duckbill point away from the hose. The oil cap must seal tightly also. The oil tank must pressurize. The duckbill lets air enter the oil tank and prevents air (and oil) from coming out.

Good luck,
Dan

 

[PES+]

I had thought that too....that the sleeve was to bleed pressure but the tank does need to be sealed for the oiler to work. It may be to bleed off the pressure when the saw is stopped....never really thought about that till now but makes sense. When I used the brass tubing I always cracked the oil cap after shutting the saw down after cutting

 

[ManicMechanic]

I had thought that too....that the sleeve was to bleed pressure but the tank does need to be sealed for the oiler to work. It may be to bleed off the pressure when the saw is stopped....never really thought about that till now but makes sense. When I used the brass tubing I always cracked the oil cap after shutting the saw down after cutting

It is my understanding that the d/b valve is their to keep oil out of the combustion chamber,so it is my opinion that the saw should oil without it,and the only time you would notice not having it is when you fill the oil tank past the top hose,once the oil level falls below that port it should be ok,another thing that it could do is regulate the pressure, without this valve it would oil too much,Now my saw is pulling the bar oil in the cylinder and burning it,That tells me that the pump is working,but it doesnt tell me why,could it be a blown diaphram? upon removal inspection cleaning, everything looked good,now what?

 

[PES+]

Actually the duck bill valve is to let the pressure from the reed crankcase pressurize the tank and not let any oil back into the crankcase. There are some models that have a diaphram pump sort of....but it is more of a check valve for some control of oil flow and to keep the saw from dumping out all the remaining bar oil after you shut it off and do not relieve the pressure in the oil tank.