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polardoo

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I am building the bar clamps. Is 1/8 clearance per side enough or am I going to be wiping out chains. When I mock it up, it looks sufficient but I'd like to get it right the first time. 3/16 looks huge. Thanks all.
 
I am building the bar clamps. Is 1/8 clearance per side enough or am I going to be wiping out chains. When I mock it up, it looks sufficient but I'd like to get it right the first time. 3/16 looks huge. Thanks all.

1/8 is nowhere near enough - long chains stretch and leap a long way off the bar at various RPMs and loads, I would use 3/4" minimum. But why use clamps at all? Just make the top part of the clamp and then bolt through the bar direct to the top part of the clamp. Most big bars already have holes in them to take these types of mounts. Have you read the Milling 101 sticky?
 
I guess my Idea was to copy the Granberg. My last experience with drilling a bar was not horrible until the steel work hardened from too fast of a drill press. It does kinda scare me to drill the sprocket end though.
 
The up and down clearance on a Granberg is a good 3/16 on each side. Fore and aft clearance is a good 3/4". More is better because the chain can whip around quite a bit on the back side.
 
Drilled the bar today. Went OK. Sprocket tip did work harden, just have to clean it up with a carbide.
 
So I'm nearing completion
millingsaw001.jpg

It turned out pretty well for trying to use scraps I had around
millingsaw002.jpg

millingsaw006.jpg

I never thought I'd have a use for a safety tip
millingsaw003.jpg

A little closer than I planned but still clears and if I need I can add a couple links
millingsaw005.jpg

millingsaw004.jpg

millingsaw007.jpg

Just need a thing or two and to test it out on some logs, 20 degrees F here and snowing again
 
Looks good. It will be interesting to see how it goes.

A potential problem for your skid design is that it could align with and get caught up in bigger deeper grooves in the bark and push the mill up or down.
 
I like your safety tip idea, and may have to borrow it. :D

Not sure why you feel the need to tie the bar clamp to the powerhead ? It should work, but it's not necessary ? :confused:
millingsaw002.jpg


Thanks for the pics.
 
I like your safety tip idea, and may have to borrow it. :D

Not sure why you feel the need to tie the bar clamp to the powerhead ? It should work, but it's not necessary ? :confused:
millingsaw002.jpg


Thanks for the pics.

It semed like a good place to put the skid and couldnt hurt for the extra reinforcement. Also works great to keep the saw standing upright. By the way I've got about $60 into the saw and less than $20 in the mill.
 
Not sure why you feel the need to tie the bar clamp to the powerhead ? It should work, but it's not necessary ?

Someone posted that "tie" as a potential way of reducing bar sag on long bars.

I would have thought the strap or tie would need to be thicker to increase rigidity, but then longer bar bolts would be need
 
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I like the design!

But I think the skid may need to be a bit sturdier. In addition to what Bob commented, I'd think the way it is now it would get bent pretty easy. The powerhead can get pulled into the log with a surprising amount of force.
 
I like your safety tip idea, and may have to borrow it. :D

Not sure why you feel the need to tie the bar clamp to the powerhead ? It should work, but it's not necessary ? :confused:
millingsaw002.jpg


Thanks for the pics.


If he were to make a continuous loop it would still remain light while making the piece stronger.

jerry-
 
Have you used the safety tip before?

I have not seen that style, they may well be common. I was just wondering if there was a danger if it rotating into the chain?
 
The safety tip does have dimples to hold ot in place. I'm not really happy with the slider cause it eats up about an inch of bar length and I may change it. Thats the beauty of building your own- if it aint right, fix it. Once it warms up I will test it on a piece of cedar that I have and try my hand at video.
 

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