Honesty?

[Fish]

Ok guys, be honest now.
When rebuilding a carb, do you all replace everything in the kit that applies to your carb? Even those stuck on gaskets, you know, the metering
gasket stuck to the carb, and the fuel pump gasket, stuck to the fuel
pump cover?
Fess up now.

 

[Al Smith]

Geez your'e up early.If it's my saw,I just put in what parts are needed.If it's for someone else,I replace them all.

 

[HiOctane]

Install only diap,inlet,lever and diap gaskets.Install very rarely plugs and other stuff even if its mine.

 

[DanManofStihl]

Gaskets only and check the metering I haven't had a problem yet that the needles were to blame only old gaskets that were worn out. Knock on wood

 

[Fish]

No I assume that everyone replaces the metering and fuel pump diaphrams, but I am asking about the gaskets, those things that are usually stuck on the old carb.
Welch plugs I will very rarely bother with. Inlet needle and lever, yes I replace,
if it is a full kit, since I remove them anyway.
But I was mainly curious about the gaskets, which are usually stuck on very well.

 

[Lawn Masters]

I strictly install gaskets, metering lever, inlet needle, and dont touch the welch plugs mainly cause I dont have the tool to properly install/remove em. besides, why remove welch plugs if you dont need to?

 

[jokers]

I replace whatever is needed, always including the gaskets and diaphragms, but rarely touch the welch plugs unless I can`t get the carb clean(working) otherwise. This is a rebuild.

If the carb needs a simple cleaning, I probably won`t replace anything.



Russ

 

[Fish]

I leave the old gaskets on, rather than spending the time scraping sanding, etc.
I usually leave the welch plugs be. And on fairly new units, I do not replace anything.
I had to replace a kit on a fairly new unit recently, the metering side gasket tore.
Stihl had the price of the kit at $25 dollars, talk about a ripoff.
But like I said, I leave those stuck gaskets alone, I was just curious if I was alone on this.

 

[jokers]

And on fairly new units, I do not replace anything.

We`re in agreement on this if you are talking about a simple cleaning, otherwise you went into the carb for something that wasn`t working right, I assume that component gets replaced?

Stihl had the price of the kit at $25 dollars, talk about a ripoff.

Yeah and Stihl`s OEM kits aren`t any different from Walbro`s or Zama`s kits other than the plastic bag they are in for half the money or less.

But like I said, I leave those stuck gaskets alone, I was just curious if I was alone on this.

Gaskets that are stuck come off pretty easily with a razor blade type scraper, I never sand on a carb body, it would be too easy to ruin a flat mating surface or put grit in an orifice .

Russ

 

[Fish]

On the fuel pump side, there is usually a sealing ridge that outlines each section that is usually a real pain. My friends and family do not let me near razor blades.
I never sand either, like I said, I just leave them be

 

[NevadaWalrus]

Takes a little longer but I use a exacto knife and tooth brush sized wire brush to clean the pump side ridges. Guess I'm old school, I prefer doing the job right, as I see it anyway. In addition we bag and return removed parts for customer inspection should they want to. Most don't but once in a while one will and if you get someone who knows and they don't see what should be in the bag, you're busted.

 

[Chris J.]

I get the complete rebuild kit, & use everything except the plugs.

 

[Fish]

Great, that is what I was looking for.
Bob, do you always put in a new kit, even on a new unit?

 

[West Texas]

I clean the whole carb in kerosene, blow it out with an air hose and replace the diaphram, all the gaskets, the lever, needle and that pesky spring. Sometimes, when everything 'looked OK' but it was obviously too rich, the problem has been cured by stretching the spring to put a little more pressure down on the needle and hold it in place. I've never messed with the plugs or little metal screen that is in some of them.

 

[NevadaWalrus]

No. A number of times I've had new units that upon servicing for sale ran way to lean, especilly Zama's. Teeter totter lever set to low is not uncommon on Zama'a and new carbs come apart without damaging the gasket and diaphragm. When a simple inlet needle lever adjustment is all that is needed on a new carb I replace no parts.

 

[Lakeside53]

I often leave the fuel pump gasket stuck to the cover, but replace the metering side. Why? 'cos you can't set the metering lever height if you don't... It's set relative to the carb body top, either flush or a preset distance down (use the $4 tool from the carb manf. to do this..)... Just take a standard razor knife blade and scrape by pivoting it around a point, then long gentle scrapes sideways. Works great, and removes any gasket in seconds. I always replace the needle (and see lots of badly worn needles), but often don't bother with the metering lever. Many of the small parts are in the kit because they get lost, rather than need to be replaced. How my metering needle shafts have you seen worn out?

In response to the reply about $25 Stihl kits, get another dealer. Yes, Stihl kits are more expensive, but most have a recommended list price around $15 to $17, and the dealer pays a lot less then this.

 

[NevadaWalrus]

Some Stihl kits are expensive and some newer ones and any older "Bing" carb kits have to come from Stihl. The Bing carbs are the worst, absolutely no choice but using Stihl and some kits are over 50 bucks, but replacement carbs can be over 100. So don't condem the dealer unless you know for sure.

 

[Lakeside53]

Some Stihl kits are expensive and some newer ones and any older "Bing" carb kits have to come from Stihl. The Bing carbs are the worst, absolutely no choice but using Stihl and some kits are over 50 bucks, but replacement carbs can be over 100. So don't condem the dealer unless you know for sure.

Don't know with this was aimed at me or not. I'm not slamming the dealer... but a few do mark up more than is reasonable, and there is nothing wrong with trying another if you think the prices are high. Sure, some kits are expensive, but most are not. A couple of dealers in my area give pretty good break on this type of stuff to the customers that frequent their stores, and not just pros.

Moving along:

Many stihl dealers sell the walbro/zama kits as well, but it's a pain to stock Zama as they almost make a kit per carb - unlike the walbro kits, they include the metering spring. Try explaining to a customer the differences between one kit and another. I've given up trying to stock all the zama kits (would need about 50 different kits to do it "right"), and just buy a generic set of C1Q, C3A, and C3M kits, ditch the springs and make up the rest of the parts by buying the individual parts in lots of 10.

There is one advantage in buying a stihl kit; it will contain the correct parts and if there have been any updates, like to springs or gasket thincknesses (yes, they do do this from time to time), it's all included.

 

[2Coilinveins]

Does anyone put grease or Vaseline on their carb gaskets to keep them from sticking? I do this occasionally rebuilding Holley's and Edelbrock/Carter's, but never even thought of it for small engines until I saw this thread. Anybody?

 

[046]

depends if gsk come apart intact. then I'll reuse instead scraping, in general making a mess.

if gsk separates or tears, then of course new gsk time.
I've torn apart/rebuilt hundreds Weber carbs and are pretty comfortable with what I can get away with.

beside replacing all diaframs, you need a visual check that passages are clear.

easiest way to do that is with a stream of liquid.

take a can of berryman's chemtool w/long nozzle. put on safety glasses. then carefully place nozzle on every jet, passage and/or orfice. give it squirt and watch for liquid to come out other end.

chemtool will also help clean passages and give a 100% positive visual passage or jet is clear.