How do you set the ignition gap on a Shindaiwa 488 ?

[kingofcoins]

Question really is how do you get the exciter coil module to set the gap if its totally blocked by the flywheel . If you remove the flywheel to access
the setting, then you can't set the gap ...see the pics

....

 

[pastryguyhawaii]

I know what you mean, I thought the same thing. It doesn’t look like it but an allen wrench just fits in that upper bolt.

Then take the top cover off & you can slide the feeler gauge in from the top.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I know what you mean, I thought the same thing. It doesn’t look like it but an allen wrench just fits in that upper bolt.
View attachment 1197776
Then take the top cover off & you can slide the feeler gauge in from the top.View attachment 1197775

It wouldn`t take much effort to make a notch in the outer rim with a Dremel or die grinder to give clearance for the Allen key to fit in straight on and not tipped sideways. It appears there is a raised edge that is quite thin and I think I can see where the Allen key has rubbed a divot in your flywheel already.
Thanks for the nice clear pic Jeff.

 

[kingofcoins]

Thank you both for your knowledge and insight...I can't believe I'm the only one ever on the web with this problem what the exciter never fails or gets changed ? Yes of course I drilled and edge hole to access the allen screw direct..tip this makes a good stop/hold when taking the flywheel nut off without breaking the fins.. I had to do it more than once because NEW PROBLEM found the exciter was so tight I couldn't even get a .010" gauge in let alone the incorrect .020 gap reported for this saw. The correct 488 gap is .014" .I had the grind the heel off of the exciter where it contacted frame opposite the top adjusting screw..see pics.. anyway NEW QUESTION now I could not get the feeler under both legs of the exciter just set the .014 at the top, so the both bottom foot drags on the flywheel more than the factory setting did. Now spark is about the anemic same with a Bosch R10 and coil reads 0.3 ohms, but saw still doesn't even putter with staring fluid. My question is does it matter if the exciter drags on the flywheel OR not...and if you know the test/spec for the exciter ohms and would a new CJ7Y be called for ?.. thanks for any replies

 

[pastryguyhawaii]

Thank you both for your knowledge and insight...I can't believe I'm the only one ever on the web with this problem what the exciter never fails or gets changed ? Yes of course I drilled and edge hole to access the allen screw direct..tip this makes a good stop/hold when taking the flywheel nut off without breaking the fins.. I had to do it more than once because NEW PROBLEM found the exciter was so tight I couldn't even get a .010" gauge in let alone the incorrect .020 gap reported for this saw. The correct 488 gap is .014" .I had the grind the heel off of the exciter where it contacted frame opposite the top adjusting screw..see pics.. anyway NEW QUESTION now I could not get the feeler under both legs of the exciter just set the .014 at the top, so the both bottom foot drags on the flywheel more than the factory setting did. Now spark is about the anemic same with a Bosch R10 and coil reads 0.3 ohms, but saw still doesn't even putter with staring fluid. My question is does it matter if the exciter drags on the flywheel OR not...and if you know the test/spec for the exciter ohms and would a new CJ7Y be called for ?.. thanks for any replies

This is my second 488. The first one I had didn’t have any of these problems I can recall. This one matches yours exactly. There wasn’t enough room to set the proper gap & I had to file like you. It was kind of a pain but I coaxed it in from the side for the bottom.


As for being too close, my experience is no it’s not good. Before I figured the above out, the saw would run good then suddenly just kind of chug at idle with no throttle response. Drove me nuts. Some people said these require a non resistor spark plug. I found mine ran better with one but am not sure if it’s the best option. Jerry, @pioneerguy600, would be able to tell you much better than I can.

 

[pioneerguy600]

This is my second 488. The first one I had didn’t have any of these problems I can recall. This one matches yours exactly. There wasn’t enough room to set the proper gap & I had to file like you. It was kind of a pain but I coaxed it in from the side for the bottom.


As for being too close, my experience is no it’s not good. Before I figured the above out, the saw would run good then suddenly just kind of chug at idle with no throttle response. Drove me nuts. Some people said these require a non resistor spark plug. I found mine ran better with one but am not sure if it’s the best option. Jerry, @pioneerguy600, would be able to tell you much better than I can.

Well Jeff I only know of one of these 488`s in my neck of the woods and I have never had one in to work on it, there isn`t even a dealer anywhere near me to ask about these saws. I would try a resistor type plug first and if that proved to be of no gain then swap in a non resistor one. As far as testing exciters and modules it is mostly useless due to the circuity involved when they don`t produce spark we just replace them.

 

[kingofcoins]

OK now I set both legs at proper gap so flywheel spins without touching exciter now; and I added a new Autolite non-resister copper plug, so spark is better than before, but saw still will not start or sputter even with starting fluid in bore....and the flywheel key is not bent....anybody know whats wrong or what to check next ? .. ?.

 

[pioneerguy600]

What is the compression numbers? When one does not have a small engine compression tester then just remove enough of the muffler to take a close look at the piston condition.