How do you start your wedge?

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Andrew15

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Ok,so when you fell a tree,what cut do you do first?The flat one or the one at an angle?My brain just hit me with this question so i instantly opened this website.The way you start actually maters or its just a preferance?I NEED TO KNOW
 
The way you start actually maters or its just a preference?

There are a bunch of what I call "approaches" to the standard cutting sequence.

Some of the approaches call for the top cut first, others...

Does top-or-bottom-first "actually matter?" Probably not.

But, many feel the overall approach they use--which calls for top/bottom-first--does matter. They might think their method is: safer, more efficient, reduces fiber pull, or produces more marketable wood.

Many cut the way their grandfather, uncle, guy-on-Youtube taught them.

Roy
 
Ok,so when you fell a tree,what cut do you do first?The flat one or the one at an angle?My brain just hit me with this question so i instantly opened this website.The way you start actually maters or its just a preferance?I NEED TO KNOW

How you start is somewhat irrelevant. What counts is what it looks like when you stop cutting.

If you are new at woodcutting,
  • I suggest using a conventional face cut. Plan your cut before starting, then make the horizontal cut first. Stop at your planned points.
  • Inspect your first step, and measure the chosen angle for where your fall is aimed. If you need to make any changes in the plan, now is the best time.
  • Then make the angled cut, hopefully meeting at the ending points of your initial cut.
The reason I suggest making the horizontal cut first is that it is easier to get the "aim" of your face cut done accurately. It takes a good bit more experience to get the angle and depth correct when you start with the angled cut first. That being said, if your aim is of questionable accuracy, it will still be difficult to finish the "wedge" (face cut) accurately. By doing the angled cut last, if you are shooting for a clearly visible 1st cut, you have a good chance of making corrections before you totally screw up the face cut.
 
Plus one with PD, I think a beginner should start with a conventional notch, and cut horizontally first, using the sight on your saw. Almost every saw has a line across the pull cover and chain cover that is perpendicular to the bar, allowing you to aim your notch. Then line your bar up at your desired angle on one side, and rock it forward into your angled cut. Once you've knocked your wedge out, the most important thing is to dress the notch until it's clean and matched, with no undercut leading to an unintended Dutchman.
 
Ain't that the truth. It becomes so instinctive sometimes it's easy to forget all the little things that go into a cut. I guess all that contract climbing and training new crews constantly helped me notice the little things. Felt like every day was arborist 101.
 
If you do a conventional or open face cut, you can look through your "kerf "top cut as you join up the far side of the bottom cut of your notch, so as to mitigate a bypass cut of your apex.
Ive used the same technique for a Humboldt but your leaned over pretty far to peak in there ,
 
I think the OP is talking about the face cut, not the back cut.
For a beginner yes, I would say doing the angle cut on the face first, wether from above, or below (humbolt), to the depth of the face cut, then intersecting that with a level cut might be easier, then come in with the back cut to intersect the point to leave a good straight hinge. I do this often.
 
Ain't that the truth. It becomes so instinctive sometimes it's easy to forget all the little things that go into a cut. I guess all that contract climbing and training new crews constantly helped me notice the little things. Felt like every day was arborist 101.

I'm so old and crusty I just about can't work with anybody with experience anymore. At least the newbies don't mind when you tell them what they are doing wrong and stupid.

I was on a tree trimming job a couple weeks ago, and I let a guy join my crew on account of we were a bit short on help. He's been doing tree work all his life.
Here's where the fun begins: I told him we missed a branch, and the pole saw had stopped working. At about 8' off the ground, it was a narrow crotched branch on a pear tree overhanging a parking spot at the bank. It was higher than could be properly reached without gaining some height, so I asked him to step onto the grapple bucket on my tractor. It makes an excellent platform, because you can straddle the grapple tightly, and never lose your balance.
"NOOO! I ain't doing that! I don't trust it. I'll just climb up the tree (with no safeties) and cut it off from up in the tree".​
So he grabs an 044 to make a trimming cut on a 6" diameter branch, while precariously arranged. He couldn't use the climbing saw because he couldn't reach the branch to be cut with anything less than a 25" bar. I ordered him out of the tree, while my guys got in the tractor to pick me up a whole whopping 4 feet off the ground.
THEN the numbskull I told to get out of the tree runs up in a bit of panic to help me guide the branch in the right direction with pole-hook, while standing under the branch. Keep in mind this is a leaning branch with a 60° tilt over the parking lot. I just about had a fit. "Get the %@#& away from the tree! GIT!"

And so, sometimes the "experienced" folks and me don't get along too well. ...back on topic now.
 
I think the OP is talking about the face cut, not the back cut.
For a beginner yes, I would say doing the angle cut on the face first, wether from above, or below (humbolt), to the depth of the face cut, then intersecting that with a level cut might be easier, then come in with the back cut to intersect the point to leave a good straight hinge. I do this often.

Easier... yes.
Folks with less experience often botch the hinge aiming when they start with the angled cut.
Now it's more important to my way of thinking to aim first, then worry about incidental details like creating some mismatched cuts that don't leave a clean hinge.

Just sayin.
 
I'm so old and crusty I just about can't work with anybody with experience anymore. At least the newbies don't mind when you tell them what they are doing wrong and stupid.

I was on a tree trimming job a coupsometimes le weeks ago, and I let a guy join my crew on account of we were a bit short on help. He's been doing tree work all his life.
Here's where the fun begins: I told him we missed a branch, and the pole saw had stopped working. At about 8' off the ground, it was a narrow crotched branch on a pear tree overhanging a parking spot at the bank. It was higher than could be properly reached without gaining some height, so I asked him to step onto the grapple bucket on my tractor. It makes an excellent platform, because you can straddle the grapple tightly, and never lose your balance.
"NOOO! I ain't doing that! I don't trust it. I'll just climb up the tree (with no safeties) and cut it off from up in the tree".​
So he grabs an 044 to make a trimming cut on a 6" diameter branch, while precariously arranged. He couldn't use the climbing saw because he couldn't reach the branch to be cut with anything less than a 25" bar. I ordered him out of the tree, while my guys got in the tractor to pick me up a whole whopping 4 feet off the ground.
THEN the numbskull I told to get out of the tree runs up in a bit of panic to help me guide the branch in the right direction with pole-hook, while standing under the branch. Keep in mind this is a leaning branch with a 60° tilt over the parking lot. I just about had a fit. "Get the %@#& away from the tree! GIT!"

And so, sometimes the "experienced" folks and me don't get along too well. ...back on topic now.
Sometimes I miss it, and then I remember those kind of days, trying to keep everybody safe on a jobsite, like the only adult in the room...
 

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