How Much Oversize to Cut Beams?

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I'll have to measure it once we have cut to length. We'll make most of out pieces without any sapwood, so I'm not sure how deep that will go until I cut it to length.




We won't need these for two years, possibly even three. I'm trying to saw up all the wood we'll need now, so I can stack & sticker it outside for two years, and for any pieces resawn as trim, stack them inside for an extra year.

I think for the trim I'll slice up some of the bigger sections and rotate / quarter saw them. I'm limited to a 34" wide cut with the Alaskan & 41" bar anyways. Thanks for the tips, and nice 4x12's!


First we'll trim up the ends and paint them, they've already sat for 6 months in the sort yard.
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The log your left foot is on will twist regardless of how you cut it in my opinion might want to put that into somthing else 2x 0r somthing!
 
The log your left foot is on will twist regardless of how you cut it in my opinion might want to put that into somthing else 2x 0r somthing!

Is that based on the outer bark spiraling along the length? About half are that way, and the other half go straight all the way.

As they dry, do they try to untwist the way they were growing?


Thanks for pointing that out!
 
Is that based on the outer bark spiraling along the length? About half are that way, and the other half go straight all the way.

As they dry, do they try to untwist the way they were growing?


Thanks for pointing that out!
The one next to it as well From my experience Yes!Others opinions my differ!
 
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Have a look at jury -rigging a dehumidification kiln. All you need is a used house dehumidifier (I bought mine through Buy and Sell ) some plastic sheeting and a look through Taunton Press' On Wood and How To Dry It. It looks to me that you have more than enough uses to justify putting one together. You'll find it invaluable when you do your interior! Must less falldown and warpage than in a commercial kiln as well.
 
Road trip?

All the fir around there is fairly twisty isn't it?

When I timber cruise, it's usually on my quad for what it's worth. The fir up "there" seems to stay drier than the straight fir down here. As soon as you see bugholes it's almost no good for firewood. I've cut down 4 footers and had them end up being just a smelly mess. So far the only dry standing fir I've found's been without needles and bugholes. Like I said, at the first sign of bugs it turns to punk around here.

I'm moving the end of May (about 15 minutes drive) to an almost different climate. The fir there is all big. Keep this forum updated on the timber frame carport I'll build out of "live" fir.

To the OP: my companies base is just off 272nd north of the highway. I live in Aldergrove when I'm on the coast. I'll be in langley monday, let me know if you want to start on those firs! I'll bring a crane and my 3120 :greenchainsaw:
 
Twisted how? As in twisted grain in the log, or a twisted, crooked tree to begin with? Either way the answer to both is not "all the fir". Crooked Douglas Firs, and those with twisted grain, usually grow in very windy, exposed areas such as sparse hillsides. When they grow in a dense forest they generally grow straight and tall around here, since they have to in order to reach the sunlight. Ours do not grow quite as big or tall on average (except for farther east in the mountains) as down there, and generally have more knots and branches, but I don't think straightness would differ much. I've tried taking pictures of the ones out at Dad's place, but even with my 10mm wide-angle I can't get perspective on them. I did post this photo in a different thread a couple weeks ago though. It's not the best example as it does have a bit of sweep to it and the branches come lower than most. Our forests are full of old giants like that, left as seeder trees when the original logging was done 100 to 50 years ago. FWIW I once saw a logging truck come into town that was only holding 3 Douglas Fir logs. This was a number of years back and nothing like that comes in anymore (nor could the mills handle it if it did), but it was impressive to see.

My lumber grading instructor (and later on, inspector at the mills) once told me that if the grain spirals in one direction in Douglas Fir, it usually only goes in a few inches or so and then straightens out in the center. However if it spirals the other way, it's almost always twisted right to the pith. I can't remember which direction was which though, and I can't prove it as true either. But, he's the one with a quarter century more grading experience than I, and I don't think he was trying to pull one over on me.
 
To the OP: my companies base is just off 272nd north of the highway. I live in Aldergrove when I'm on the coast. I'll be in langley monday, let me know if you want to start on those firs! I'll bring a crane and my 3120 :greenchainsaw:

Hi Chad,

Thanks for the offer, but we've gotta finish the drying rack and a few other projects before we'll start sawing these.

It's surprising how many people on here are from the Vancouver / Fraser Valley area!
 
My lumber grading instructor (and later on, inspector at the mills) once told me that if the grain spirals in one direction in Douglas Fir, it usually only goes in a few inches or so and then straightens out in the center. However if it spirals the other way, it's almost always twisted right to the pith.

It seems to be more spiraled on the butt logs than the others. I'll try to take a better photo of the spiraled ones. I think we'll q-saw these ones and they'll become the 8ft and less pieces where twisting won't matter as much.
 
Theres people from all over here Its quite interesting to talk to people doing the same stuff having simular issues ,I,m on the island ,Nanaimo!
 
YUP! Some anyway!
I saw a load on a truck last week the logs had been sawed in half length wise to load properly The guy did a nice job too real straight
cut for a chainsaw a good 6 foot thru.I was droolin!
 
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